So I took my S10 to a transmission shop had the input shaft bearing replaced the throwout bearing and clutch along with the flywheel paid the mechanic 1450 . I start driving it home at first I noticed gear shifting was pretty ruff I thought it must be the parts breaking in and than shifting started getting really ruff even got stuck at a green light for like a minute or 2 trying to get it into first gear I finally get it home and I'm pretty frustrated I try calling the shop they wont answer so I fiddled with the clutch with truck on and noticed if you push the clutch peddle all the way to the floor really hard the clutch will disengage and you can go through the gears with ease. the peddle doesnt feel soggy feels pretty stiff anyone have any Idea what's going on did he install something incorrectly or could this be a master or slave cylinder issue ??it shifted fine before they worked on it just made alot of noise I went to the shop in person this morning the helper said they'd work with me when I get the truck to the shop again ... any advice would be appreciated

 

Most likely have air in your system. Don't wreck your transmission driving like that. For $1450 I take back and make them repair it.Check his YELP rating too.

 

They wont answer the phone and I saw some of the work they did I took the chances and changed the slave cylinder myself because it was leaking pretty decently but the bite point for the clutch is still low better than before but it's about 1" before the clutch engages I've heard clutches have to be worn in for the first 500 to 1000 miles and bite point will go up

 

That's true, but it should disengage properly right after you replaced the throw-out bearing slave cylinder. If that happened with a new car, no one would tolerate that.

Something else must be amiss here. You may have an internal leak at the master cylinder, is a good guess. That or the parts were somehow incompatible.

 

So if it disengages fully I should be fine right is there a way to test this I've heard revving it up high in first with the clutch in I really dont want to take it back to a shop I've been waiting like 2 months to drive this thing been trying to get out of this accord that's barely holding on.

 

I'm not as familiar with S-10's as full sized Chevy pickup's, but there MIGHT be an adjustable rod going from your clutch pedal to he firewall. If there is one, adjusting that should solve your issue. I don't see as your idea of revving the engine up in 1st gear would harm anything, but truth to tell, I don't know if that will work or not. My old Camaro
did not have any rod adjustments, but it worked fine as soon as I was done with it.