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2009 malibu wont start if engine is hot.. but will with boost

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Old June 2nd, 2019, 6:48 PM
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Default 2009 malibu wont start if engine is hot.. but will with boost


i just bought this car fir $800.. the previous owner had all the sensors replaced, starter, alternator and ignition switch and gave up on trying to figure out whats wrong... It drives perfect the engine is like new but it will not start up without a boost after it has been driven... Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to fix it?? Thanks for all replys
Old June 2nd, 2019, 8:00 PM
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What does the battery voltage show after it's been driven and won't start?
Old June 2nd, 2019, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KChevy75
What does the battery voltage show after it's been driven and won't start?
I don't know ill buy a voltage meter tomorrow and check it
Old June 3rd, 2019, 9:06 PM
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Having same exact problem with 2009 Malibu. Battery at 12.6-12.8 and 14+ with car running
Old June 3rd, 2019, 9:10 PM
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Originally Posted by KChevy75
What does the battery voltage show after it's been driven and won't start?



Having same exact problem with 2009 Malibu. Battery at 12.6-12.8 and 14+ with car running
Old June 3rd, 2019, 9:25 PM
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This maybe?

#PIC5234: Intermittent No Crank No Start With No DTCs - (Sep 1, 2009)


Subject: Intermittent No Crank No Start with no DTCs


Models: 2008-2010 Chevrolet Malibu

2007-2010 Pontiac G6

2007-2010 Saturn Aura




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Condition:
Intermittent No Crank No Start.

Cause:
A customer or technician may comment on the above condition. This could be the result of any of the following:

Misadjusted or damaged transmission shift cable. Park Neutral (PN) switch installation or internal failure. Loose or broken battery ground cable to ground stud (mostly on the 3.5L engine on the ground stud on the trans) Loose or damaged cable at the B+ post at the starter.

Follow the below steps to determine the root cause and necessary repair.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Carefully inspect transmission shift cable for any signs of damage. Replace cable if any damage is found.
Check transmission shifter and cable adjustment
In an attempt to duplicate the condition try shifting from any shifter position into the park position carefully, not slamming it in park. After shifting in to park try starting vehicle. If the vehicle does not start unless you push the shifter hard in to park you will need to adjust the shift cable as described (09077A)

Check output from Park Neutral switch to ECM for proper signal. Check all terminals for loose or poor connections at Park Neutral switch and ECM. If all appear okay replace the Park Neutral switch.
Loose or damaged nut/cable at the B+ post on the starter. (PIC5100) If post is damaged the starter will need to be replaced.
Loose battery ground at the ground stud. This issue is mostly been seen on the 3.5L engine, however some cases on 4 cylinder also. Check for loose connection between terminal and stud. Check for poor crimp between the terminal end and the cable. Check for broken cable strands at the crimp which may create high resistance. Replace the ground cable if a poor crimp is found or the cable has any sign of damage. If fastener is loose tighten fastener to proper torque.
Poor terminal connection at ECM or UBEC. Remove and do a terminal inspection and lube as per TSB (08-05-22-009A)
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Old June 3rd, 2019, 9:26 PM
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Or this:

Old June 3rd, 2019, 9:34 PM
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Go to about 8:12. This is after he's been applying heat to simulate engine temperatures. It immediately drops to 0 voltage.
Go to about 9:30 and there's a hairline crack in the copper wire. When cold it makes contact. When hot, the gap expands and voltage it lost.

Last edited by KChevy75; June 3rd, 2019 at 9:36 PM.
Old June 3rd, 2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KChevy75
Go to about 8:12. This is after he's been applying heat to simulate engine temperatures. It immediately drops to 0 voltage.
Go to about 9:30 and there's a hairline crack in the copper wire. When cold it makes contact. When hot, the gap expands and voltage it lost.

Thanks. But could you explain why car starts with a boost/jump?
Old June 3rd, 2019, 10:55 PM
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Maybe by the time you jump start it, it has cooled down enough. Or the higher voltage is enough to bridge the gap in the wire.



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