RoflCopter726

Hey guys, Just letting you know I'm almost done with an overhaul of the sound system in my truck. My truck is an '07 NBS ext. cab LT1. I've replaced all of the components. I installed an Alpine IVA-W505 head unit, Alpine SPS-600C 6.5" Type-S speakers in all 4 doors, Kicker KX-600 (600 watt) amp, Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad capacitor, and an Alpine 10" SWE-1043 Type-E subwoofer. Its not going to blow the doors off by any means, its just a good, clean sounding system with a little extra bass. I'll have some pictures posted up when its all complete, hopefully within the next day or so.

soundhd

I re did mine this past summer. Replaced the head unit with a Pioneer.....replaced all the speakers with Infinity Reference speakers (kept the factory 16 ohm hi freq. driver in each front door....) sounds just great...........super improvement

99 ext cab LT

therewolf

Hi RoflCopter,
Happy New Year. My CD player went during warranty, and it's going again. How much did your new system cost, and did you install it yourself?

My factory bass always sucked, and the system in general was always a little fuzzy and well,weak. If you like Alternative or Classic Hard Rock, the sound is disappointing to say the least.

RoflCopter726

Well, the head unit itself retails for about $999, but i found it online for $850. after everything is said and done, it all costed about $1100. A friend and I installed everything ourselves and its all working fine except for the video playback. I had to order the PAC-TR7 module to bypass the foot brake/parking brake video lockout procedure. (I didnt spend $850 to park on the side of the road or in a parking lot to watch dvds. And i know it is illegal to have video in motion but my friends and i frequently travel and its mainly for them to be able to watch while i drive, im responsible enough to know to not watch while i drive.) the part should be in tomorrow and my buddy and i should finish up. All thats left is to secure the Amp under my drivers seat, mount the capacitor, and wire up the bypass switch and its good to go, i'll have pictures soon.

mmjsport

Cool, I bet it sounds great.

cams 98 silverado

wow definately want some pics. last year or so i put in all kicker component speakers in. i had a sony head unit but then got bored and wanted something else. so i got a so-so video head unit. has the bluetooth and all the bells and whistles but it was a cheap knock off and so i finally just said screw it and got the great phaze linear head unit. and i got new tweeters installed as well. and a 1700 watt phoenix gold amp powering a 10 inch kicker L7. got a 5 farad capacitor as well and even a secondary battery powering the sub. well the sub, lights, and anything else accessory. but yea. im thinking about amping my components but that head unit i got makes it sound sooo damn good i dont know.

Kaptain

I also did an upgrade of my NBS 07 silverado.
I put a Pioneeer Avic-z2 in the dash, all speakers are stock, and a Phoenix Gold TiZ400 amp pushing my 10" DVC Eclipse sub.

Everything sounds great by my head lights dim and it's driving me crazy.
Last night I replaced the wire from the alternator to the battery with 4 gauge Stinger wire. I also added a some 4 gauge to the neg. terminal of the battery to the body of the car. This did not help at all.

Anyone have any suggestions? I am considering replacing the stock delco battery with an interstate battery to see what happens and possibly upgrading to dual batteries.

mmjsport

I would say upgrade to two batteries. I'm pretty sure the nbs silverados come with two battery slots under the hood so it shouldn't be so hard.

x1cn18

if you go to the two batteries try a kinetik audio battery they work great and they arnt that big well at least the one you would need isnt

therewolf

This is one of the ones where the answers create even more questions. While my budget isn't strained, I'm wondering how much I need to produce a decent (but not competitive) sound. While I've already decided to run the head-unit into an amp, I'm interested in solving the current and future overheating problems during the next sound system retrofit. My in-dash OEM unit adds a new meaning to "CD Burner". Has anyone else suffered blistering heat trauma changing a CD?
Any ideas for a general wiring diagram? Would one decent subwoofer suffice, or is a pair that much more balanced? One channel per speaker? Will I need a Potato Capacitor? Inquiring minds want to know...