orlak36

I have a 2011 chevy aveo with 44000 miles on it. 10 days ago I tried to start my car and after 3 tries it started and ran fine. The next day, when I went to start my car nothing happened. No crank, no lights, nothing. I jumped it, it took a few tries but would not hold power. Figured I'd change the battery just in case. Got new battery, installed it and started up fine, yet on the next day, nothing.

Called the dealership. They said to bring it in but since its over the bumper to bumper warranty I would have to pay. That's ok, and I said I would call them back. I also checked for TSB's for my car and there is a bulletin for the electrical system which says "due to the parasitic drain/discharge on 2011 vehicles and trucks, a no crank/no start and dead battery would occur. Cadillac s ts and Chevorlet Volt not included." (NHTSA: Action Number: 10044124).

I called Chevorlet (not the dealer, the company) and explained my problem. They said that the TSB's are VIN specific. I gave my VIN and they said that there is no TSB on my car. Yet that is the exact problem with my car. This shouldn't happen on a new car that's only 2 years old. My question is: After I go to the dealer and have it looked at, and they find nothing, what do I do? Should I mention the TSB to them? What if it is the same problem and why isn't my VIN on the TSB?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

oldchevy

The dealer will also do a vin search and give the same answer as Chevrolet did. It is worth a try, all they can say is no and maybe you get lucky and they help. I had trouble with the transmission on a Trailblazer 2 years ago and it was also just off of warranty. I complained enough so that they help and payed half of the repair bill. Keep on calling them.

orlak36

Thanks,

I made an appointment for Monday at 1:25, so I will update after that. Now if they only perfected cloning so that I can be there and at my Fiancee's doctor's appointment at 2:00 for a check up of my soon to be born daughter. Science, where are you on this?

orlak36

Finally got news about my car. They said that the rear defroster fuse is what's causing the drain and that the alternator is not keeping a charge. In order for it to be fixed they have to go through the dashboard and replace the fuse box and replace the alternator, which will cost me over 1400 (which includes the labor they have already done trying to diagnose the problem), which I don't have. They said they could disconnect the fuse so that its not drawing any power, and the alternator would not be losing so much power, but would still have to be replaced, but the car would not die after a few hours because of the power no longer going to the rear defroster fuse. I've decided to not have them put in the alternator right now, (still lack of that much money at the present) and just disconnect the fuse, which will cost me around 500.

Does any of that make sense as the rear defroster fuse drawing power too much power from my alternator causing the car not to start? Has anyone else had this problem? A google search gives me no results. I am picking the car up today and going to bring it to Advance for a free alternator test to get a second opinion on the alternator and then bringing it home and save up for a new alternator if need be.

Thanks for the help. I am and will always remain:

orlak36 (not my real name)

P.S.

Anyone care to guess where I got my username from?

papisautosales@gmail.com

Question.... My 2011 Aveo5 LT is kicking multiple codes, P0700, P0455, P0101, P0073, P0073-74, U0001, U0100.... Will start and drive but is very slugish unless you push the accelerator to the floor. cat temp is about 900... obd2 scanner keeps saying it lost communication. At first replaced the maf due to a code but now i am lost. please help...