magician

I have an 07 with 225k miles on it and I'm looking to replace the ball joints in it but I have some questions.
First, it appears I have aluminum control arms but I'm not sure, is there way to tell what tahoes got aluminum and which got steel? Mines a 2wd LT2 w/20's.
Second, I can find the lower ball joint but can't seem to find the upper unless it's connected to a control arm, are the part numbers the same for the upper and lower or do I have replace the upper control arm to replace that ball joint?
Third, does anyone have torque values for the front struts and rear shocks? I've googled it several times and keep getting mixed responses?

Thanks

in2pro

Attached, also check out this thread, does a magnet stick to the arms? did a previous owner lower or raise the vehicle?

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...t-60220/page3/


I found this listed on Amazon

Moog K80669 Upper Control Arm with Ball Joint Left $87.65

Moog K80670 Upper Control Arm with Ball Joint Right $89.24

Moog K6541 Ball Joint Lower $49.05



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magician

Thanks, I hadn't thought about the magnet thing. Mine are aluminum. My Tahoe has been lowered a full 3 inches all the way around, Eibach springs and Belltech Performance shocks and struts which is why I had to ask about torque info. I simply went with 55lb torque but some things got loose after a few miles. The ball joint questions came from the alignment guy telling me all he could do was get it close to specs and it would cost me $1200 to replace upper and lower on both sides? Pretty sure I can do it for less than $300 if the upper is the same part number as the lower? I'll be pretty bummed if I have to replace the upper a arms though...

tech2

post the alignment printout
a custom upper control arm is most likely all that is needed to bring the camber/caster back into spec.

magician

I didn't get the alignment printout since the tech actually showed me how the worn ball joints were making the alignment impossible, just a lot of movement, it's close right now and they will not charge me for a second alignment once I replace the ball joints. Once the ball joints are done I'll post pics.

One other question comes to mind after reading around the web, should I replace all of the ball joints or would it be better to start with either the lower or uppers and see how that changes things, is one more likely to be worn out than the other?

tech2

if it needs aftermarket upper control arms to get it in spec replace them. If the lower bj are worn replace them.

makes no sense to me to replace the upper c/a with stock if they do not provide the alignment adjustment needed.


I have lifted vehicles and usually, the camber is within range but the caster is to positive. this is not a tire wearing angle. It effects steering returnability, road feel, can create shimmy if to far out of spec. knowing the pre-alignment numbers would help make a decision. the most correct answer is to replace the upper c/a to provide the proper alignment angles and any loose lower bj or other worn suspension parts. Why it needs lower c/a replaced I can only speculate.

magician

Toe was originally way out prior to lowering. Inside tire tread wear was extreme.
Camber is what was hard to get in specs. Because of the wear on the ball joints adjusting camber to specs would knock toe out and it went back and forth adjusting either. Right now camber is slightly out with the top of the tires slightly inward and this becomes more pronounced when the wheels are turned. As I said, there was significant (imo) play while it was on the rack. I don't get that same amount of play in my garage. My plan was to replace the lower ball joints and see how things look back on the rack, if it still has a significant amount of play then I'll do the upper ca's unless I'm thinking about it backwards?