Quick struts are on. Went with monroe rears as well. The reflex ones. Definitely rides better, had somebody instal them for us. Family friend. Did front and rear shocks, plugs and changed out all fluids. Front struts came with black springs. Looked like paint not totally sure. Time will tell if they are any good.

 

Excellent , thanks for the follow up..
What type of plugs did you go with?

 

The ac delco plugs. Now scheduling alignment, then doing front and rear brakes and should be done for a while. Any suggestions on brake rotors. Are the drilled and slotted ones on eBay any good. Front and rears with pads go for around 260.

 

I would suggest the OEM rotors and the best AC Delco ceramic pads... its what I used and have had zero problems with them... no squeal and no dust, I believe the pads I got were the professional series...

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...tenance-54058/

 

Well I got her all done today, took me about 1.5 hrs for the first strut because I took my time taking apart and putting back together, the other side took about 40 minutes.. The wife was my assistant, tool get-er and safety spotter (you really should have someone outside with you when performing semi hazardous repairs)

Tools required (or at least what I used that fit)

18mm box/open-end wrench for removing top 3 strut retaining nuts

5/8" deep well socket for removing the 2 bottom strut retaining bolts

18mm crowfoot box-end wrench for removing strut top retaining nut AFTER sprint is adequately compressed.

6mm open end wrench (taped inside a 1/2 pipe for leverage) to hold the strut shaft from spinning while top nut was removed.

3/4" open end to tighten spring compressors, hand tools allow you to feel any stress or high resistance while compressing the spring, that and air tools can be destructive due to the high speeds and the heat build up.

Tube of anti-seize applied to compressor threads and stacked washers at top of compressor that act like bearings for compressor bolt.


1-Old strut before removal
2-Old strut note coil position and alignment to stud
3-Use tool to wedge out bottom of strut support strut so it doesnt fall
4-Old strut removed
5-Old strut with nut put back on to mark orientation

 

6-Use quality spring compressors that fit over coil wire and use ample anit seize to prevent galling, use hand-tools only...
7-18mm crowfoot and 6mm wrench taped in a piece of metal pipe for leverage
8-Strut disassembled be sure to note orientation of parts before removal, this is also a good time to clean them all up if you are into having the parts look good.
9-remember to remove all spacers and supports this plastic support almost got missed because it was so dirty
10-New strut nut is called out in service manual, my struts did not come with nuts included, had to order separately via dealer..

 

11-New all put together note orientation of parts are same as prior to removal
12-New installed and torqued down, I attached all 3 top nuts first then used a open end wrench to wedge bottom of strut back onto lower control arm, installed 2 bolts.

 

So what you think? Is the ride considerably different. Would you go with the same kind of struts in the future or try and do a quick strut and by-pass a little work. Since I didn't instal mine not sure how much time savings they really are.

 

I only got a short ride in after getting them installed but it was defiantly firmer, a few quick "S" going down the road and it seemed pretty firm to me... I need to get it out on the highway and see if it still feels bouncy...
I have become a big fan of OEM (AC/Delco) so yes I would go back to the them.

I am sure the quick struts are a good way to go if you are a do-it-yourself-er but don't have access to needed tools or just not willing to invest in something that will be used only a few times (spring compressor)

My concern with the quick struts we're that they may not have the full range of standards that the original struts had, the thick plastic coating on the coils to help silence them and protect from rust, the nylon bushing at the bottom of the coil to also dampen sound... I have not seen the Monroe's but I bet they are just painted and lack the nylon spacer at the bottom of the shock tube where the coil rest...

Though the front struts took longer then the rear shocks, I found them "easier" to do because the rears you have to be on your back looking up working above your head with heavy tools, the struts I sat right in front of and worked at a bench..
The wife won't let me put a lift in the driveway...

 

ummm take the tire off and do the rears?? It was pretty easy for me to do the rears on our 07 burb...