07" Suburban oil gulping!
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Joined: Jun 2015
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GunnyV, if you have not had any oil consumption issues up to this point and the engine is running reasonably well with your given mileage, then you likely do not have any excessive camshaft or piston ring/cylinder wear.
Go ahead and do the tune-up. The plugs need to be replaced anyway if it is 90K or more miles.
Based on my experience with the 5.3L AFM (Active Fuel Management) engines - I own a repair shop in TN - this is what I recommend you do, as I consider these to be top priority although not necessarily in this order:
1: Spark Plugs
2. PCV rubber hose/elbow extension to the driver side valve cover - INSPECT THE PCV SYSTEM FOR SPLITS OR DETERIORATED RUBBER COMPONENTS AND REPLACE!!
3. Replace the driver side valve cover with the new updated GM valve cover. I believe I have the part# in a previous post on this thread.
4. MOST IMPORTANTLY - Remove oil pan and install the AFM Oil Deflector onto the relief valve. Clean out and reinstall oil pan using a new oil pan gasket as shown in my previous "How To" in this thread.
5. Change oil every 3K to 4K miles REGARDLESS.
I hope this gives you some direction.
Go ahead and do the tune-up. The plugs need to be replaced anyway if it is 90K or more miles.
Based on my experience with the 5.3L AFM (Active Fuel Management) engines - I own a repair shop in TN - this is what I recommend you do, as I consider these to be top priority although not necessarily in this order:
1: Spark Plugs
2. PCV rubber hose/elbow extension to the driver side valve cover - INSPECT THE PCV SYSTEM FOR SPLITS OR DETERIORATED RUBBER COMPONENTS AND REPLACE!!
3. Replace the driver side valve cover with the new updated GM valve cover. I believe I have the part# in a previous post on this thread.
4. MOST IMPORTANTLY - Remove oil pan and install the AFM Oil Deflector onto the relief valve. Clean out and reinstall oil pan using a new oil pan gasket as shown in my previous "How To" in this thread.
5. Change oil every 3K to 4K miles REGARDLESS.
I hope this gives you some direction.
I have replaced the valve cover with the latest one and did the cleaning.
The TSB says that on iron block engines it is not necessary to install the oil relief valve shield because the iron block uses a different oil pump than the aluminum block which results in a higher engine speed before the AFM relief valve opens and iron blocks are less susceptible to the oil spray condition, but if the oil pans ever needs to be removed for any other reason then install the shield.
You emphasize installing the shield, I am trying to avoid removing the pan unless absolutely necessary. Do you have any thoughts on this.
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Thread Starter
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Would have been $6000 for new motor installed. Truck only worth $15,000
Tired of it nickel and diming you to death. No cruise control, rear defroster, park assist. All 4 shocks needed replacing, tires. probably a tranny next!
Good riddence
Tired of it nickel and diming you to death. No cruise control, rear defroster, park assist. All 4 shocks needed replacing, tires. probably a tranny next!
Good riddence
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Joined: Dec 2010
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I am having the same problem with my 2007 Suburban. Started adding 1 quart of oil per 1,000 miles at 110k. Now at 193k and am tired of buying oil and plugs. My dealer refuses to admit a problem with this engine, probably the GM line to avoid a recall.
Anyway, has anyone tried disconnecting the breather hose then add a breather/filter at the valve cover and capping the fitting on top the intake?
Anyway, has anyone tried disconnecting the breather hose then add a breather/filter at the valve cover and capping the fitting on top the intake?
Last edited by Jim Lucier; Mar 5, 2016 at 7:30 AM.
CF Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 43
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I am having the same problem with my 2007 Suburban. Started adding 1 quart of oil per 1,000 miles at 110k. Now at 193k and am tired of buying oil and plugs. My dealer refuses to admit a problem with this engine, probably the GM line to avoid a recall.
Anyway, has anyone tried disconnecting the breather hose then add a breather/filter at the valve cover and capping the fitting on top the intake?
Anyway, has anyone tried disconnecting the breather hose then add a breather/filter at the valve cover and capping the fitting on top the intake?
It cost me $90 for the valve cover and $50 for 2 bottles of engine cleaner. Hardest part is getting #6 sparkplug out and back in. Had to remove the RF wheel and inner fender liner to get to it. Also added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil which is supposed to have some cleaning properties.
