I'm in a battle with GM right now in reference to the rear window defogger leads falling off the glass. Either due to poor soldering or they're simply defective. I'm trying to find out if anybody here has had the same problem. After the 1st one fell off they replaced the entire window. When the second one fell off the replacement windo, they re-soldered it. Now the other side has fallen off. I'm being told a replacement Window is $900.00. SCREW THAT!!!!! Hence, fighting with GM. I have a few friends who have the same problem. I was dealing with a GM customer service rep named Cathy and she SEEMED to be understanding. Now she doesn't return phone calls . She told me she was placing calls to the dealership here jn Baltimore, Bob Bell Chevrolet, and leaving messages (since the service manager NEVER answers his phone) , but her calls went unanswered and no return calls either. So, my only alternative is to find as many Tahoe/Suburban osners that I can who are experiencing the same problem and file a class action lawsuit. If any of you are having that problem, please let me know. I've already gotten an attorney.

Thanks

 

yes i had the same problem... how it got fixed... well... I tried fixing it my self and i just couldn't get the solder to run so i went to close the window and as soon as i push down... CRACK! a million pieces fell to the driveway! called up USAA and they had some come out the next business day, well, he got there right after the sun came up and just started working. after he was done he then came to the door and said he was done... and thats that. they haven't fallen off yet and that was 3 years ago...

I do believe its gm wimpy wiring at fault. my side view mirrors wouldn't heat as well as my rear window! checked the fuses. 30 amp was melted.. replaced it. now working. But if you look at what gm uses for wiring its SCARY! very small wire for LARGE loads! they use like 22-24 AWG for ALL the outlets! What i believe happens is the amperage for the window heats the solder points up some and when you drive it loosens them... or better yet, if you drive the car cold everything is brittle. And solder is VERY brittle when cold. I rarely drive our burban cold, always do the remote start and let it run at least 5 min.

 

Part of the problem in the earlier 2007 models was the coiled wire was taut even when the window was shut. Now there is some slack in the wire when the window is shut. You can accomplish the same thing by stretching the coiled wire until there is some slack in it.

Some have had luck using a conductive epoxy to reattach the terminals.

Are you saying that your glass shattered?

 

been wondering about this also just have been too lazy to try anything so far

 

Here is the link to previous conversations and the repair bulletin for the glass...
I would go with the repair epoxy for electrical connections...https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...ell-off-39447/

 

yes. my glass shattered into a million pieces rather loudly!

 

I suspect the concentrated heating combined w/ the shock of closing probably contributed to the breakage. Tempered glass is highly stressed to begin w/ to enable it to shattered into small, harmless fragments.