Originally Posted by 73shark

You could check the sending unit with an ohm meter. But you are probably right, its probably shot.

Originally Posted by in2pro

I got started on her this morning as the weather has been really nice here the past week, a couple of Starbucks refreshers Valencia Orange and I was good to go ...

The first thing I want to point out is that the #8 as everyone knows is a PITA, I have little doubt that some folks that pay to have this done(tune up), are paying for 8 plugs but only getting 7 done...

I started with the #8 knowing it is the absolute hardest one to do, I would recommend that anyone doing their own, start with #8 to get it done and out of the way.

I pulled the front wheel off to do the even number plugs (2-8), I thought it made access to #8 a bit easier as I was able to sit at the spark plug level and get both hands in at times. (1-7, I did from the top)

I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the #8 boot and leverage it against the exhaust manifold (you want to do this on a cold engine) and the boot came right off no struggles

You can easily see the #8 from under the vehicle but you can't really get any tools up that way due to the starter/catalyst/exhaust in the way, again I went at it from the wheel well and its still a PITA but it beat trying to lay or bend over into the engine bay and try and get around the A/C lines.

After removing the spark plug wires, give the area around the exposed spark plug a shot of compressed air to remove any debris that might fall into the spark plug hole when the plug is removed, this is really important if you live or have been in a sandy area, you really don't want grains of sand in the cylinder, or risk getting gunk on the spark plug threads and galling up the threads in an aluminum head

I found it easier to prep my work, I gap checked 4 plugs and set them aside, if you need to adj the gap, I would recommend a small pair of needle nose pliers to adjust the ground electrode, as you don't want to risk damaging the center electrode.

I used a q-tip to coat the inside of 4 of the new wires spark plug boot, plug side, with the supplied silicone lubricant, this makes the boot easier to go on and come back off if needed. I cleaned and buffed (yeah they look sweet, polished) the boot heat shields and re-installed them on the new plug wires.

When installing the new boot over the plug, listen and feel for the "click" of the connector going over and onto the spark plug tip, same goes for the coil end, you should feel and hear a confirming click... If you don't feel it I would recommend taking it off and test fitting it on a plug. The reason I say this is once you fire up the engine and you find you have a miss due to a poorly connected wire, that engine will be a hot SOB already, and you don't want to have to jack with trying to get it seated on right...just sayin'

Pointers/Reminders
*If you drop a spark plug while trying to install it, recheck the gap
*Use the silicone lube on the boot, if its not included get some.
*OHM out the new wire set before installing, it only takes a few minutes to save yourself the headache of a poorly assembled plug wire.
* There is a torque spec for the plugs, but there was not way in heck, I could get a torque wrench on more then 2 may 3 of the plugs... get them snug but not over tight...
* Do not use anti-seize on the threads as it can reduce the electrical conductivity of the plug to ground and cause over tightening of the plug..

Originally Posted by GunnyV

In2Pro, on your 100,000 list of items the wires say 748RR. The ones I've gotten say 9748RR. Everything else are right but the wire set. Just wandering if I've got the right ones or a return is in order.