1995 Tohoe Motor Swap
#1
1995 Tohoe Motor Swap
Hey, I have two 1995 chevy tahoes. One has a good motor and transmission but was totaled in a wreck (rear frame damage), the other one has a dying motor and transmission. I am wonder how easy it would be to swap the motor and transmission from the totaled one to the other one. I have never done a motor swap, and I want to know if this is something I can tackle myself with no motor swapping experience? Thanks for any advise in advance.
#2
Administrator
Welcome to the forum.
It's not too hard if you're mechanically inclined and have a 2,000 lb shop crane. The reason you need the larger crane is for the reach.
Take lots of pictures and notes and label the wires and hoses.
It's not too hard if you're mechanically inclined and have a 2,000 lb shop crane. The reason you need the larger crane is for the reach.
Take lots of pictures and notes and label the wires and hoses.
#6
Tahoe engine swap
Don't be bashful about taking pictures. Get some masking tape and a good felt tip marker to label items so you won't forget where they go.
If both engines are identical it should be a straight up swap.
Try to put as many bolts back in their original holes as you can so they can go back there when you are reinstalling everything or leave them in the component they are mounting.
These are things you might not have to do as you get more experience but for now they will help you stay organized.
When you get the good engine out on the ground you might want to replace hard to get seals like the rear main seal or the front seal in the transmission. Better to do it now than have to take it out later.
Take the oil pan off and clean out the accumulated sludge that builds up over the years. While you're looking around the oil pan look for metal fragments that might spell trouble later that can be fixed now.
If both engines are identical it should be a straight up swap.
Try to put as many bolts back in their original holes as you can so they can go back there when you are reinstalling everything or leave them in the component they are mounting.
These are things you might not have to do as you get more experience but for now they will help you stay organized.
When you get the good engine out on the ground you might want to replace hard to get seals like the rear main seal or the front seal in the transmission. Better to do it now than have to take it out later.
Take the oil pan off and clean out the accumulated sludge that builds up over the years. While you're looking around the oil pan look for metal fragments that might spell trouble later that can be fixed now.
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#8
Draining fluids
Drain the radiator and engine of antifreeze. Just unhook the lower radiator hose and let drain into a bucket or container that'll hold about three gallons or so.
Automatic transmissions-- Yes if they have a sliding yoke on the tranny end of the driveshaft. A sliding yoke will go up inside the transmission a few inches and will leak out all your transmission fluid when removed. You could stuff a rag in the opening and black tape a piece of plastic over that around the snout of the transmission. It could be a good idea to replace the seal there before the drive shaft is reinstalled. A
Also transmission cooling lines will need drained or plugged both on the transmission and the ends of the lines you'll have to disconnect.
DO NOT disconnect A/C lines anywhere at all. Once you remove the A/C compressor from the engine lay it out of the way against the fenderwell and tie it there with a tarp strap or rope.
Automatic transmissions-- Yes if they have a sliding yoke on the tranny end of the driveshaft. A sliding yoke will go up inside the transmission a few inches and will leak out all your transmission fluid when removed. You could stuff a rag in the opening and black tape a piece of plastic over that around the snout of the transmission. It could be a good idea to replace the seal there before the drive shaft is reinstalled. A
Also transmission cooling lines will need drained or plugged both on the transmission and the ends of the lines you'll have to disconnect.
DO NOT disconnect A/C lines anywhere at all. Once you remove the A/C compressor from the engine lay it out of the way against the fenderwell and tie it there with a tarp strap or rope.
#9
Go down to the local auto parts store and get a Chilton's manual for your vehicle. It will have detailed instructions for engine removal. Don't bother with a Clymer manual as they are too basic for what you want.
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