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2000 Chevy Suburban 2500 oil line install help!

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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:19 PM
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Default 2000 Chevy Suburban 2500 oil line install help!

I have new oil cooler lines running from up near the differential to the radiator. I cannot get the new ones fed through and it is driving me up the wall...... I cannot find discussion/tutorials/tips ANYWHERE!!!!!! I have consulted all data as well as Chilton and every forum you could imagine. NOTHING. I could only find a few reviewers of the dorman lines on amazon who said you need to lower the front differential to get the new lines in. Never done anything with the differentials except change the oil. I don't know how to "loosen it and tip it down." Please ANYONE help me figure this out! I have spent many hours trying to get them in and don't have a vehicle because I thought this would be simple. Thanks in advance...
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 10:52 PM
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the front diff is has 2 nuts on the right side, 1 near where the front propeller shaft bolts to the pinion and one above the diff. remove them and see if that's enough room. if you need more cleareance, remove the front prop shaft from the diff. just don't drop the diff on yourself.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 8:43 AM
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And always block the wheels (if not on jack stands or a lift) when removing drive line components, don't rely on the parking brake ...
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 9:54 AM
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Thank you so much gentlemen for your charitable words. I freaking love forums and the people here who give of their time and knowledge.

The driver side is on a tall jack stand and I pulled the cv joint off the differential. I have to go get a shorter socket to get the highest bolt now. I think by pulling those two as you instructed, and possibly loosing the passenger side carrier bolts? I should be able to get it to lower enough to put them through. What a pain in the a$$ this has been. Any other tips are appreciated, but it makes much more sense now what to do.

THANK YOU so much!! Your a life saver for a reluctant DYIer.

Last edited by Ididit86; Apr 10, 2014 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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it would be a pita doing it on the ground. on a hoist its pretty easy.
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Old Apr 12, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tech2
it would be a pita doing it on the ground. on a hoist its pretty easy.
Yeah it was. I disconnected the CV then took out the two bolts on the driver side diff and loosened the two on the passenger side and used a jack for support (actually didn't need it for lowering, just for putting the diff bolts back in.) It was so easy then to slide them through. Now just have to put my plates and battery etc back in and give it a whirl. It was a royal pita, but they are done. If they leak I think I'm going to cry haha. Thanks again you guys. I just needed so confidence with the diff.
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Old Apr 12, 2014 | 1:35 PM
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great job. If I have to do that on the ground, my back would be sore for 2 weeks...and I would have invented many new swear words.
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by tech2
great job. If I have to do that on the ground, my back would be sore for 2 weeks...and I would have invented many new swear words.
Add being an amateur and not know to/how drop the differential, spending many hours before realizing it just isn't going to work, learning how to flare and flaring the stock lines and thinking vaccuum pressure hose would fit right on and having to scream and fight like Mel Gibson in Braveheart to get the new hose over the flares.........


You would have a whole new language in just swear words!


I'm done, and no leaks! I am one happy and tired camper....

(Boiling water bath for a half hour, silicone grease, and super human strength is what it took for the new hose on the newly pressed fittings BTW.)
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