I need some trouble shooting tips on my Yukon. I want to test the drivers window switch and I'm not sure what to test. I didnt want to just replace the whole unit since I wanted to make sure the window motor is not bad. I hear the switches go on a regular basis but want to make sure before I replace a good part just to have to tear the door all apart for the window motor.

Regards

Matthew

 

See my response in thread https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...p-times-41490/. In addition, make sure there's power on the DK GRN wire for terminal F with the key in ACC or ON and the resistance across terminals M and F with the switch in the driver-window-down position is zero.

 

I looked at your other post and based on checking the voltage I have power at the various leads. I'm not really seeing how to jump them to test the actuator however. Do you knww the steps for testing the switch?

matthew

 

I don't get how you got "power at the various leads." With the connector off, you should have power on the DK GRN wire that would mate with terminal F on the switch with the key in ACC or ON. The rest is to check for continuity across the switch contacts, with the electrical connector off, not on the connector but the terminals on the switch. I don't know any other way to say the same thing. What am I missing?

If you want to test the motor, you can use a 25A fused jumper wire to supply power to the DK BLU wire that would mate with terminal A on the switch and ground the BRN wire that would mate with terminal M and vice versa. Since the problem is either at the switch or towards the window regulator, I don't see a point in playing with that much current which can mess up the electrodes in the connector.

 

On my 2001 2500HD I pulled the drivers door switch panel and then pulled the switches out of their respective locations. Once they were apart I cleaned each terminal and each respective contact for any contaminants. I use cotton Q-tips and alcohol (real not the mixed/diluted stuff) to swab all contact points. Continue this until the swabs are clean and still white after it has been swabbed. Good luck.

Hope it helps.

 

I have power on the DK GRN and I tested for resistance when the switch is turned on. I had to read how to do that but it shows M and F resistance is zero when you press the switch to lower the window. If both of those are true, I assume that the switch is fine and its most likely the actuator.

I dont have mirror control either on both sides, so I hope that is just the switch. Any suggestions on testing that switch?

And thank you for all the support, it is greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Matthew

 

Be sure to check the continuity between terminals A and M with the switch at rest. Any resistance across means lousy contacts to ground. If zero resistance, the problem is in the motor itself or perhaps wiring to the motor.

As far as the mirror switch goes, it looks like:

Terminal G, ORG wire, battery voltage to switch
Terminal B, BLK wire, to ground

Terminal F, WHT wire, to driver mirror, voltage for left direction, ground for right
Terminal E, YEL wire, to driver mirror, voltage for right direction, ground for left

Terminal E, YEL wire, to driver mirror, voltage for up direction, ground for down
Terminal C, LT GRN wire, to driver mirror, voltage for down direction, ground for up

Terminal J, RED/WHT wire, to passenger mirror, voltage for left direction, ground for right
Terminal D, YEL wire, to passenger mirror, voltage for right direction, ground for left

Terminal D, YEL wire, to passenger mirror, voltage for up direction, ground for down
Terminal K, PPL/WHT wire, to passenger mirror, voltage for down direction, ground for up

So, take the connector off and then check the voltage on the ORG wire and continuity between the BLK wire and a good chassis ground. Then, check the continuity on the switch between terminals G and F and then terminals B and E with the switch in the left position, and so on.