tech2

can't even buy 2 x 25' rolls of steel line for that price where I am.


that dorman kit is stainless too.

73shark

There is good stainless and there is cheap stainless. 18-8 is best but I doubt that brake are made from it. The first number is the % chromium content and second the nickel %. 12% chromium is the minimum to be called stainless. Lesson over, now back to the game.

beasticles

If you're planning to do this job yourself - do not even consider buying brake line "kits" as they will be near impossible to install yourself unless you are a mechanic by trade and have access to a lift and you have the time/patience to lift the frame.

I recently lost my rear line to rust (the one that runs from the ABS module under the driver's seat on the bottom of the car, to the T splitter above the rear axle) and after contemplating my options, purchased Copper Nickel EasyBend brake line on Amazon. It is so easy to work with and flare yourself. I literally had never replaced a brake line or flared a brake line prior to this happening to me, and I was able to run the new line myself with only a minor learning curve.

I found others with similar issues over at GM Trucks. If you are going to do it yourself read this:

Best Way to Remove Rear Brake Line from ABS - 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 - GM-Trucks.com

and this:

Brake line size? - 1999-2006 & 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 - GM-Trucks.com

Specifically, this guy was kind enough to post the specific sizes of the lines and the flare nut fittings on each line:

"The rear lines are conventional 3/16" after the splitter on the rear axle. The line running to the splitter is 1/4" line and a 1/4" fitting going into the splitter. Where this line goes into the ABS it is a 5/16" fitting taking a 1/4" line. The 2 lines coming from the master cylinder to the abs are 1/4" line with 5/16" fittings drilled out for 1/4" line. The 2 lines to the front cylinders are 1/4 " line with 1/4" fittings at the calipers and 5/16" fittings with 1/4" line at the ABS. You can't buy these lines. All the mechanics I talked to after making the assumption that the 1/4" line would have 1/4" fittings could buy the 5/16" fitting with the 1/4" bore and they made their own lines. I ended up getting 1/4" to 5/16" adapters for the connections to the ABS and ran 1/4" lines. The adapters are a problem, they have to have the small end on the 5/16" side. The big ended ones can be used on the master cylinder. The 5 on the ABS required me to phone and visit every automotive part store in 200 miles."

This was the line I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, these fittings ARE THE EXACT correct match for replacing the fittings that go into the ABS unit for each line (all five) - thank me later. This will send you a ton of time.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...190121-P%C2%A0.

TahoeLTGuy01

Yea I plan on having my mechanic do it. Doing a job like this with no lift seems like torture to me when changing all the lines. I would think doing it this way with pre bent lines will be less time consuming making it more cost effective for me. I replaced a few with the cooper nickle that blew out on me on the axel already. The ones that are the worst are right below the driver floor board near abs module running along the frame.

TahoeLTGuy01

Well I purchased the dorman rock auto stainless kit and its installed. It is legit and looks like pretty decent quality of stainless steal. not a fun job my mechanic spend about 6-7 hours (on a lift) replacing the brake lines and also the fuel lines dropping the tank etc. Again its all 7 pre bent brake lines for $60. How it holds up only time will tell.
Good luck if you attack this job! No more blowing out brake lines for me!