I may as well add my POS 2004 GMC Yukon XL SLT to this site!!

The back liftgate glass right hinge also separated on my vehicle. 98000 miles and we may have opened the window 3 or 4 times. This is an engineering defect that Government Motors refuses to fix. The excuse GM gave me was that it was 10yrs old and they won't warrant it. The dealer said he could get another one for $800, well woopee tee doo! I would prefer to stay American but until America can produce a vehicle they stand behind then I guess I'll get a Toyota. If this had been something I caused I could understand it. This is without question an engineering defect and GM refuses to fix it. Screw GM

 

Mine also broke a way from the hatch and we never even use the hatch. couple times a year. Not sure why this would happen but we took it to someone and they did a quick fix but didn't last. They are telling us we need a whole new window. That to me doesn't make since. but whatever.

 

My 2004 Yukon was repaired by a local auto glass shop. The dealer refused to even try to repair it and only wanted to charge me $800 for a new back glass. Another local shop refused to try to fix it as well. A local guy with his own business agreed to take the challenge and it has been repaired now for 6 months without breaking. This is a GM engineering design flaw that fails all on its own. They take a metal hinge and glue it to glass with a glue that fails over time by just sitting there in the sun.

Randy's Glass came over to my house and made the repair. I pulled the door down and he ground off all of the old glue GM used and cleaned up the hinges and glass. He then applied an epoxy that is designed to adhere to glass. This stuff is a super epoxy. He side if this didn't work nothing will. It is still holding firm. Nothing you buy in a big box store will hold, been there done that. The auto glass epoxy the professional used is the only thing that has worked. I was happy to pay him the $50.00 for the repair.

 

@testdepth : That was a great deal to get it repaired for $50 - I would have gladly paid that too! Replacement glass from the dealer is ridiculously expensive.

I fixed my 2002 Tahoe with JB Weld epoxy about 6 months ago and so far (fingers crossed) it is holding up fine.

 

2003 Chevy Suburban. black: Just bought it, 135,000 miles, rebuilt transmission, ordered struts for lift window as they were missing - tried to install struts and right side hinge came off. Then, I read this thread. I repositioned the lift window and Gorilla taped both sides. Not noticable from the ground. Similarly Gorilla taped tailgate to pickup bed two years ago, and it still functions as an air block; tailgate down & up, often.

Hinge broken - black Gorilla tape to the rescue.

 

Brad, I know this is an OLD post, but if you still get this can you reply as to which JB Weld you used? I just called and talked to whoever answered at JB Weld Company, and she said the original JB would not adhere to glass unless it is "roughed up." I'm leery of roughing up tempered glass. Thanks for an answer.

 

I used the original JB Weld (was not aware of any other options at the time) - it was the kind that comes in two separate squeeze tubes, one with black cap labeled "STEEL" a the other with red cap labeled "HARDENER". I tried but was not really able to rough up the glass very well. There was some residue from the original factory glue that I was not able to fully remove which left the surfaces a bit rough - that may have helped. I made the repair almost 2 years ago and it is still holding.

Hope this helps.

 

Yes, it helps tremendously. I had assumed that you used the original since you did not specify another and because you left it clamped as long as you did. I had just changed the gas lifts on mine because the originals would not hold my glass up. They were MUCH too stout, and I think contributed to my hinge/glass failure. Glad I saved the old ones. Thanks for the reply, and thanks for enduring the flamings early on and helping the rest of us.

 

I used original JB Weld and put mine back on. Interesting that my hinge had zero of the original adhesive stuck to it. It also had no holes, just 3 little punched "feet" to hold it off the glass. Slick as a whistle, and all shiny glossy black. I used a chisel to get the first layer of adhesive off the glass, but it was stuck really good. It came off in one piece and was a bit flexible. There is some sort of black coating on the glass. I used a razor blade scraper to get the rest off. Used a drill with steel brush to take the shine/gloss off the hinge. Realized there was no way to know just precisely how to place the hinge. Measured between hinge parts on car and missed it by about 1/16" and had it also a little bit skewed. Gave up on it but went back later with a little more determination, took off the upper brake light (should have earlier) and finally drilled out one of the holes on one hinge. Slipped right on. Was able to put one C clip on, no struts wanted. Advising NEVER OPEN THIS GLASS. Suggested my son do the same on his Tahoe. Am betting it won't hold up, but not interested in salvage yard or dealer new glass, both of which are GM made. Safelite quoted $400+ for lifetime guaranteed replacement. Anyone know if it's an improved design?

 

I bought after market support struts and they ruined 2 rear glass windows on my 2005 Suburban. I tested them on a scale and they required 97 pounds of pressure to close. In 2 weeks they ripped the glued-on brackets on the window off, rendering it useless. I got the glass replaced under warranty, but am reluctant to put new support struts on if the glue they use nowadays is so weak. Does anyone know what the OEM pressure should be? It is a horrible design to have brackets glued to glass for something that has constant pressure when window is closed! Thanks.