You're correct about your chemistry ( retired chemical engineer), however, the aforementioned urethane adhesives, being moisture cured, aren't going to hold up under refrigeration in the way a heat cured substance would. The ambient moisture contained in the glue cartridge after being used (unless opened then vacuum sealed it in a humidity free environment) would be sufficient to cure the remaining adhesive whether refrigerated of not, the same goes for the two urethane primers. Fortunately, very small containers are available for purchase.

 

I learned that the hard way w/ Gorilla glue. Will never buy it again. Too expensive and wasn't impressed w/ it's ability. Had the smallest bottle they make and used once. About a 3" bottle w/ about 1/2" of airspace was solid in a couple of months. The bottle was so stiff, it was impossible to squeeze the air out. They need to package it in small capsules.

In fairness, Gorilla does make the best duct tape I found.

 

This thread has been disheartening and educational. My 2002 Yukon XL lift gate hinge just tracked. Can some provide detailed info on how to remove the window assembly so I can repair and replace.

Thanks.

 

Open the top (glass portion only) of the tailgate, have someone hold the glass securely while you disconnect the pneumatic rods attached to both sides of the glass, now disconnect the electrical line (may be two) that activate the heating element, then pull the small c-clips from both hinge pins...you'll need needle nose pliers for this.....and be careful holding the clips securely, they are difficult to locate if they pop out. The glass portion of the tailgate will now slide off to one side, with a little nudging.

To permanently repair the hinge-glass interface, you will need to sand or grind all residual material from the bonding surface of the hinge or hinges, drill out the residual polyurethane sealant that is probably still filling the holes in each hinge face. The glass under the hinge also needs to be sanded (by hand) with 80 grit aluminum oxide or comparable sand paper, then cleaned thoroughly with acetone....after cleaning, try to keep your fingers off all bonding surfaces.

The simplest and most cost effective way to re-attach the hinges, is with one of the primer-less urethane glass adhesives (DOW U-428 for example) coupled with a primer that will need to be used on any exposed bare metal, such as the sanded and cleaned metal hinge surfaces (DOW 5404-A is made for this).

It's imperative to re-attach the hinges in the exact spot where they were originally attached, so don't get too aggressive in removing old polyurethane on the tailgate glass adjacent to the recessed areas where each hinge was attached.

Be sure that the tailgate is blocked up in such a way that the hinge areas are level prior to applying the adhesive in order to eliminate hinge creep while the adhesive is setting up. Now just follow instructions for the use of both metal primer and adhesive, reassemble everything that came off, and you shouldn't have any problem in the future.

 

I've followed this thread for a year or two after my 2001 Suburban's rear hatch window's hinge separated. NOT happy with that POOR ENGINEERING design! A DEFECT in workmanship! It's not a normal wear and tear matter!

 

Just wanted to add that I'm another UNHAPPY Customer that had their back window detach from the hinges. After reading all the comments, I went to Pick and Pull and got me another one and got it installed for $300. Took less than 15 minutes.

I wanted to try the glue but figured might as well get it fixed.

If there's a recall I missed, please let me know.

 

Unhappy GM customers? quick call CNN.

You should be happy that your vehicles haven't killed anyone (yet).

 

The rear lift gate glass right hinge on my 2003 Tahoe broke about 2 years ago. I opened that hatch about 10 times the entire time since it bought the Tahoe new. It cots me $445 to have new glass & hinges installed at a local auto glass shop. They were very familiar with the problem and said it was one of the few non-windhseild glasses they kept in stock.

I asked if the new glass had better hinges and they said it looked just like the failed versions and recommended that I NOT open the glass.

 

I'd recommend also leaving the gas struts off. They add unnecessary pressure on the hinges, especially if you won't be using the glass pass through.

 

Well since this is bumped up....not to cause any flame wars or anything, but is this a problem one also might find on the 2007 and later model years?

The reason I ask is that while towing I often hear some "squeaking" which is the best way to describe it. Maybe some wind noise but not much. I have been unable to identify where it is coming from, but due to the proximity of the hitch to the rear gate, that area would make sense.

Or maybe its coming from the third row being folded up, as it often is when I am towing?

Guess I need to pay more attention to the hatch glass because I use it all the time, especially when towing as when hitched up I cannot open the liftgate fully due to my tongue jack. Now I am afraid to look at the glass lol.