2003 Suburban DEFECT - rear hatch glass hinge breaking
holly **** didnt read all 8 pages but somthing needs to be done if there going to have a lift glass they need to go to the design they had in the s10 blazer drill some holes in the glass and screw the outside to the inside
anybody know anything about TSB 260701, SUMMARY: INFORMATION ON THE REAR WINDOW LIFT GATE GLASS
what info is it?
thanks...
edit: the rest of my rear window finaly broke off. where can i get a replacement window?
what info is it?
thanks...
edit: the rest of my rear window finaly broke off. where can i get a replacement window?
Last edited by 6camaro9; Jun 12, 2010 at 2:11 PM. Reason: update
Add another one to the list. I have owned my 2004 suburban since new and the other day I went to open the liftgate glass and then it would not close. Under closer inspection, the right side hinge was pulling away from the window. Certainly sounds like a defective part / application / adhesive. Call it what you want but something is not right with this part.
Ok, I am back to thank you for the JB Weld tip. Bought a packet at the local auto store for less than $10.00. Taking the window off was fairly easy. I cleaned & cut out some of the old adhesive/weld and applied the JB Weld. Clamped the hinge back down to the window and let it sit for several hours. Put the window back in and several thousand miles and a couple of hundred opening and closes the rear window is working just fine. I still feel it is a poor design but was happy you shared the JB Weld tip as spening $1,000+ on a new window was not in the budget. I had already dealt with the faulty instrument cluster as well as the faulty (overheating) fuel pump issue. Thanks.
Hey! The last posting was almost was almost a year ago - what's up with that?!! Is everyone done griping about this? I'm pretty sure folks are still seeing this problem as I now am and looking for solutions here on the internet.
I never expected (and wouldn't even try) to get the dealer to cop to this after the warranty period has expired but it is quite sad (as others have stated) that an expensive and potentially dangerous body part is falling off my $42K high-end SUV after only 38,000 miles. Really folks, unless I'm in some sort of wreck it shouldn't ever fall off.
I was trying to do the "buy American" thing on this purchase and I really hate to say it but I wish I bought a Toyota. Blue book value would be a lot higher and I probably wouldn't have a thousand dollar body part falling off for no good reason. If I've got to buy Japanese to get some value for my hard-earned dollars, then that's what I'll do.
Signing myself up for the JB-Weld solution now. Hope it works.
I never expected (and wouldn't even try) to get the dealer to cop to this after the warranty period has expired but it is quite sad (as others have stated) that an expensive and potentially dangerous body part is falling off my $42K high-end SUV after only 38,000 miles. Really folks, unless I'm in some sort of wreck it shouldn't ever fall off.
I was trying to do the "buy American" thing on this purchase and I really hate to say it but I wish I bought a Toyota. Blue book value would be a lot higher and I probably wouldn't have a thousand dollar body part falling off for no good reason. If I've got to buy Japanese to get some value for my hard-earned dollars, then that's what I'll do.
Signing myself up for the JB-Weld solution now. Hope it works.
I had my back glass replaced due to the hinge defect recently. My insurance provider let me use OEM glass with no questions asked. Here is what I found.
The new replacement glass from GM is a revised design. The hinges are mounted directly to the glass instead of being encased in plastic, and there is a plastic "applique" that runs across the top 5" of glass on the outside; my guess is that this applique hides fasteners that go through the glass attaching the hinges. This is the only piece of plastic on the entire window, and the trim around the window is now gone; it is glass edge to edge.
The aftermarket glass that my glass guy gets from his distributor is the old design, and my guess is that you can't get the new GM glass aftermarket.
Hope this helps! By the way, I have emailed several people who claimed that JB weld worked, and the response that I got indicates that it is good for about 6 months only.
The new replacement glass from GM is a revised design. The hinges are mounted directly to the glass instead of being encased in plastic, and there is a plastic "applique" that runs across the top 5" of glass on the outside; my guess is that this applique hides fasteners that go through the glass attaching the hinges. This is the only piece of plastic on the entire window, and the trim around the window is now gone; it is glass edge to edge.
The aftermarket glass that my glass guy gets from his distributor is the old design, and my guess is that you can't get the new GM glass aftermarket.
Hope this helps! By the way, I have emailed several people who claimed that JB weld worked, and the response that I got indicates that it is good for about 6 months only.
Obviously, everyone's long gone, but just in case someone is still looking for a solution that's more permanent than jb weld without the replacement of the rear glass assembly, there are several options, all of which incorporate urethane adhesives rather than one based on epoxy like jb weld, which eventually becomes brittle or softens due to heat.
Dow makes a line of urethane adhesives specifically for glass/metal or glass/ glass bonding, however all bare metal (correct hinge preparation) must be primed with (1) Dow 5201 over the bare, prepared hinge (completely sanded and cleaned as per instructions), followed by (2) Dow 5404A over the 5201 primed surface....just follow instructions.
After the hinge has been fully primed, it can be attached to the hatch glass (exactly where it came off) with one of two adhesives that do not require the glass to be primed, the difference between the two is cure speed. Dow Betaseal U-418 cures very quickly, within minutes, so consequently you have little time to re-position the hinge in the event of some initial movement. Dow Betaseal U-428 is slower curing, allowing more time for exact placement, but still cures completely is as little a 12 hours or even less in very warm weather.
The system described above, using either adhesive should provide a permanent fix for the hinge/hatch problem, just be sure to download instructions on the Dow website, and do exactly as instructed. Total cost of the components, if purchased on ebay or online auto glass retailer/repair shop should be about $50. Just be sure to order the smallest container of each primer, which unfortunately is still many times more than what will be needed. The adhesive comes in a tube that will fit a caulking gun.
Good luck...if anyone is still looking for help
Dow makes a line of urethane adhesives specifically for glass/metal or glass/ glass bonding, however all bare metal (correct hinge preparation) must be primed with (1) Dow 5201 over the bare, prepared hinge (completely sanded and cleaned as per instructions), followed by (2) Dow 5404A over the 5201 primed surface....just follow instructions.
After the hinge has been fully primed, it can be attached to the hatch glass (exactly where it came off) with one of two adhesives that do not require the glass to be primed, the difference between the two is cure speed. Dow Betaseal U-418 cures very quickly, within minutes, so consequently you have little time to re-position the hinge in the event of some initial movement. Dow Betaseal U-428 is slower curing, allowing more time for exact placement, but still cures completely is as little a 12 hours or even less in very warm weather.
The system described above, using either adhesive should provide a permanent fix for the hinge/hatch problem, just be sure to download instructions on the Dow website, and do exactly as instructed. Total cost of the components, if purchased on ebay or online auto glass retailer/repair shop should be about $50. Just be sure to order the smallest container of each primer, which unfortunately is still many times more than what will be needed. The adhesive comes in a tube that will fit a caulking gun.
Good luck...if anyone is still looking for help
Welcome to the forum.
Thanks for the info. I'm sure someone will find it in the future and be able to use it thru the magic of Google.
I'll add that to extend the life of the adhesive, store it in a refrigerator. Actually that holds true for any chemical from epoxies to touch-up paint.
A partially used can of freon will not leak as fast if you store it in a freezer due to lowering the vapor pressure which helps prevent the seal from leaking as fast.
Thanks for the info. I'm sure someone will find it in the future and be able to use it thru the magic of Google.
I'll add that to extend the life of the adhesive, store it in a refrigerator. Actually that holds true for any chemical from epoxies to touch-up paint.
A partially used can of freon will not leak as fast if you store it in a freezer due to lowering the vapor pressure which helps prevent the seal from leaking as fast.
Basically it stems from the fact that any chemical process reacts faster at higher temps. Therefore lowering the temp slows down the aging process.
Any glues such as RTVs and Gorilla that use a humidity cure will really benefit as you said from the lower humidity in a frig.
Any glues such as RTVs and Gorilla that use a humidity cure will really benefit as you said from the lower humidity in a frig.






