I had the same situation. I've just repaired the hinges with JB Weld and will not be replacing the after market struts. Has anyone figured out where to purchase the correct PSI struts? I think the window weighs about 60lbs. It would make sense somewhere around that number, or less, would work. I'm trying to find the PSI on ANY aftermarket, with no luck.
TIA
2004 Suburban LT
Original owner 240K miles

 

Disclaimer: I did NOT read all the pages here.

I will share the issue we had, believe with our 2005 Yukon purchased in 2010. Mrs. Cusser opened the window portion of the rear hatch, and the coiled rubber wire pulled the electrical contact clear off the glass; this was clearly (no pun intended) related to the too-tight coil pulling too much on the contact and/or strength of the adhesive by the supplier of the window. This was obviously an engineering defect of some sort, and I knew GM would say "not our issue". So I:
(1) bought and used special Loctite 2-part adhesive made especially for gluing the tab back on the window, some conductive epoxy, and it worked
(2) stretched the coiled wire
(3) instructed Mrs. Cusser to open ONLY the complete hatch, and leave the window part closed

Mrs. Cusser now drives a 2014 Yukon we purchased in 2022, and never opens the glass portion separately. In hindsight, since we live in Arizona, there's not much need for a defroster grid on a back window anyway....

 

When I first heard about this problem back around 2008, the first thing I did with my 2007 and, later my 2010, was unplug those coil leads and stretch them out so they didn't put a lot of stress on the tab when the glass hatch was raised.

 

Smarter than me !!! Unless you saw an old thread of mine, then smart to learn !!!