2006 Suburban 2nd row bench seat won't slide.
February 25th, 2014, 8:52 PM
#11
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These are two pictures of how I linked the slide release cable to the release mechanism using a heavy picture hanging wire...like for 150lb pictures. I tried a small zip tie first...maybe a very heavy, industrial level zip tie might hold, but my little one snapped immediately. Then I tried a wire tie. Broke. This picture hanging wire is working like a champ...so far!
February 25th, 2014, 8:56 PM
#12
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Okay...sorry. I went back and looked at the original post and pictures and realized my piece was broken completely different. I am very sorry if I got hopes up. I am not sure how I would fix that other than just completely rewire the whole release through some kind of cable handle reached from the front of the seat.
What a stupid piece to be plastic! I can see what I am in for later.
What a stupid piece to be plastic! I can see what I am in for later.
February 26th, 2014, 5:42 AM
#13
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Thanks for the pixs....not problem....I have been looking for years for an answer to this one. I have tried super strength glue, but to no avail. I read that someone had a piece milled and have considered stopping at a metal shop in town to do so. Just haven't gotten around to it. I hope you don't get stuck on this one.
February 26th, 2014, 5:26 PM
#14
I just found out on mine I think I am just missing the spring to keep the cable taught and the plastic nub for the spring is broken off. Chevy and this plastic idea was not the right thing to be cheap on, at least in my opinion.
April 2nd, 2014, 11:17 PM
#15
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THE PROBLEM
The plastic piece that always break is not available from GM. You have to buy the whole riser part with the rail. The deal wanted $240 so that was out of the questions. I then tried several glues to fix my the plastic part but it does not hold since there is just too much force in that small plastic piece.
MY CHEAP FIX
My fix was to drill a small hole through the break and then use a strong wire to hold it all together. I twisted it to make it tight.
So far it have hold up.
See my pictures.
The plastic piece that always break is not available from GM. You have to buy the whole riser part with the rail. The deal wanted $240 so that was out of the questions. I then tried several glues to fix my the plastic part but it does not hold since there is just too much force in that small plastic piece.
MY CHEAP FIX
My fix was to drill a small hole through the break and then use a strong wire to hold it all together. I twisted it to make it tight.
So far it have hold up.
See my pictures.
March 16th, 2015, 2:31 PM
#17
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Found the fix!!
I found a piece on ebay that somebody made to fix the seat rather then having to replace the whole dang thing. Works perfectly. It was around 15 bucks. Been messing with my broken seat for years now so finding this was awesome.
Suburban 2nd row seat slider fix part (replacement part NOT shown in photo)
If the link doesn't work just type in "Suburban 2nd row seat Slider fix part" and it should come up.
Suburban 2nd row seat slider fix part (replacement part NOT shown in photo)
If the link doesn't work just type in "Suburban 2nd row seat Slider fix part" and it should come up.
July 14th, 2015, 9:14 PM
#18
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Tim
I don't know if you have this fixed yet, but the same part failed on my 2003 Suburban. The part is only available with the entire seat track. I can't remember what my dealer wanted for the part, but I know it was upwards of $150.
This is a bit of a design flaw; the plastic part that broke is a highly stressed component.
A co-worker and I have been designing a replacement part milled from aluminum. I installed our first prototype last night and so far, it's working great. Obviously, only time will tell if this is a long term solution.
This is a bit of a design flaw; the plastic part that broke is a highly stressed component.
A co-worker and I have been designing a replacement part milled from aluminum. I installed our first prototype last night and so far, it's working great. Obviously, only time will tell if this is a long term solution.
-Tim
February 29th, 2016, 6:16 PM
#20
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Quick and cheap fix
On my 2005 Suburban, the plastic cam was broken when I got it as well. After looking at the setup, I realized that the cable coming from the front only seems to be there to keep the seat-back and base from sliding forward when the seat bottom is tilted forward - so basically not needed... So all I did was take 3 1/4" fender washers, drill out the center-hole to match the size of the bolt that holds the eyelet for the cable going to the right-side track, then drill a smaller hole to fit the cylinder-shaped cable-end piece that pulls when the seat-back is tilted forward - this just needs to be drilled through the 3 washers about 1/4" from the center hole. Then I cut a wedge out of one of the washers from the outer-edge to the small hole. Then it was just a matter of using one of the washers without the wedge on the bottom, then the one with the wedge removed, place the cable-end in the hole/wedge of the two washers, then the other washer with the hole goes on top engaging the other end of the cable-end cylinder in the small hole in that top washer locking the cable in place with the cable free to move within the wedge cut out of the center washer. Then just put the screw through the washers, then through the eyelet of the cable going to the right track and screw it in to the hole in the cam for the left track release. I just left the cable going to the front there with the old broken plastic piece attached and put the plastic cover back over the cam assembly. So far this has worked fine - no problem with the seat-back sliding forward - once you fold the seat-back down to create the cargo floor, the headrest is up against the tumbled-forward seat-bottom anyway and it wont slide forward - the worst-case scenario so far seems to be that you might need to push the seat-back backward a couple of inches before folding it all the way down. Total cost - about 30 cents.