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2007 Headlight Model
Sorry man...Can't help you. My kits were basically "plug and play" which only required me to unconnect the harness from the original halogen bulb and reconnect it to the ballast and I was done......
Sounds like you may have settled for one of the "bargin" kits...As I put in another post here on these boards, you do get what you pay for.
Also...Just a warning that those 10K kits are NOT going to be very bright. I have the 6K kits in my LTZ and these are just barely brighter than my stock halogens. IMHO...The 10K kits are going to be so blue/purple that it's going to seriously reduce the visible light output.
Sounds like you may have settled for one of the "bargin" kits...As I put in another post here on these boards, you do get what you pay for.
Also...Just a warning that those 10K kits are NOT going to be very bright. I have the 6K kits in my LTZ and these are just barely brighter than my stock halogens. IMHO...The 10K kits are going to be so blue/purple that it's going to seriously reduce the visible light output.
Finally was able to ge this HID kit installled in the Tahoe!!!! I was reading to much into the wiring instructions...I found some FANTASTIC install instructions for the 07 Tahoe that made removing the Headlights a breeze. Once I got the Headliight assembly out and started connecting everything it was straight forward and just plug and play. The 10K kit has a nice blue tint to it and is much better that the stock bulbs that it came with. I would post the instructions and pictures here , but I am not sure how...I have eveything in a MS Word document...here are the instructions though...
Tools needed:
• small regular screw driver - to help get the pop pins out
• 7mm and 10mm sockets 1/4" dirive is fine
• 1/4" drive 6" extension
• 1/4" swivel
• 1/4" drive ratchet or I used my cordless drill with the extension in the chuck
• 10mm combo wrench
Time: 50 - 70 minutes
• Bulbs: High Beam: 9005LL
• Low Beam: H11
• DRL: 3157K
• Turn Signal: 3457NAK
Please note that these images are of the driver’s side. Also, turning the wheel all the way to the right for the drivers side and left for the passengers side helps give you more room to work.
Step 1: Take out all 6 bolts along the top of the grille.
Step 2: Take out the 2 - 7mm screws, 3 push pins, and 2 pop in pins in the wheel well
Step 3: Pull the wheel well lining towards the tire and remove the 2 10mm bolts that go up into the fender. When you remove them the bumper mounting bracket will come out. Also note that this image shows the location of the 3rd headlight bolt as well as a bumper mounting bracket.
Step 4: Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the headlight in. 2 are on top and the third is behind the bumper as shown in the last image. I found that I was able to pull down on the bumper and use the extension with a swivel to take the 3rd bolt out.
Step 5: Pull the entire headlight forward. You will notice 2 guide pins that go into the fender and a part that snaps in on the inside of the headlight. Pull it forward just enough to clear those pins and unsnap the inside.
Step 6: Pull the inner corner of the headlight out while pushing down on the bumper. Take care of the snaps along the edge of the headlight as they get caught on the bumper and can scratch it. TAKE YOUR TIME AND LOOK AT WHAT YOU ARE DOING, this is the hardest part. As you get the inner side of the headlight out rotate the headlight leaving the outside stationary. The reason for this is the bracket that was held by the 3rd headlight bolt hangs down there. You have to get the inside of the headlight out then you can move the outside in and clear the top of the headlight and the fender.
Step 7: Once you have the headlight out, disconnect the wiring harness and remove the headlight.
Step 8: Change what ever it was your needed to change and put them AMBERS in the DRL's!!
Step 9: Replace the headlight the same way you took it out. It seems to go in much easier then it came out. Don’t forget to reconnect the wiring harness!
Step 10: Repeat steps 2-9 for the other side.
Step 11: Put everything back together in reverse order. I suggest testing the lights after you put the 3 10mm headlight bolts back in. (the same ones you took out in step 4)
Tools needed:
• small regular screw driver - to help get the pop pins out
• 7mm and 10mm sockets 1/4" dirive is fine
• 1/4" drive 6" extension
• 1/4" swivel
• 1/4" drive ratchet or I used my cordless drill with the extension in the chuck
• 10mm combo wrench
Time: 50 - 70 minutes
• Bulbs: High Beam: 9005LL
• Low Beam: H11
• DRL: 3157K
• Turn Signal: 3457NAK
Please note that these images are of the driver’s side. Also, turning the wheel all the way to the right for the drivers side and left for the passengers side helps give you more room to work.
Step 1: Take out all 6 bolts along the top of the grille.
Step 2: Take out the 2 - 7mm screws, 3 push pins, and 2 pop in pins in the wheel well
Step 3: Pull the wheel well lining towards the tire and remove the 2 10mm bolts that go up into the fender. When you remove them the bumper mounting bracket will come out. Also note that this image shows the location of the 3rd headlight bolt as well as a bumper mounting bracket.
Step 4: Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the headlight in. 2 are on top and the third is behind the bumper as shown in the last image. I found that I was able to pull down on the bumper and use the extension with a swivel to take the 3rd bolt out.
Step 5: Pull the entire headlight forward. You will notice 2 guide pins that go into the fender and a part that snaps in on the inside of the headlight. Pull it forward just enough to clear those pins and unsnap the inside.
Step 6: Pull the inner corner of the headlight out while pushing down on the bumper. Take care of the snaps along the edge of the headlight as they get caught on the bumper and can scratch it. TAKE YOUR TIME AND LOOK AT WHAT YOU ARE DOING, this is the hardest part. As you get the inner side of the headlight out rotate the headlight leaving the outside stationary. The reason for this is the bracket that was held by the 3rd headlight bolt hangs down there. You have to get the inside of the headlight out then you can move the outside in and clear the top of the headlight and the fender.
Step 7: Once you have the headlight out, disconnect the wiring harness and remove the headlight.
Step 8: Change what ever it was your needed to change and put them AMBERS in the DRL's!!
Step 9: Replace the headlight the same way you took it out. It seems to go in much easier then it came out. Don’t forget to reconnect the wiring harness!
Step 10: Repeat steps 2-9 for the other side.
Step 11: Put everything back together in reverse order. I suggest testing the lights after you put the 3 10mm headlight bolts back in. (the same ones you took out in step 4)
Hey Rockin LTZ, Is that the full conversion kit or just replacement bulbs that are 6000K? They look good. By the way what about the heat the HID produces has there been any type of melting?
Sorry I'm just now answering your question...These are the "FULL Conversion" kits that include the ballast and bulbs.
Do NOT buy just the "bulbs" that are marketed out there as Xenon...As these are NOT true HID bulbs but instead just blue tinted halogen bulbs.
As for the heat...The Xenon HID's actually put out LESS heat than the standard halogens do. No problem whatsovever with heat.
Do NOT buy just the "bulbs" that are marketed out there as Xenon...As these are NOT true HID bulbs but instead just blue tinted halogen bulbs.
As for the heat...The Xenon HID's actually put out LESS heat than the standard halogens do. No problem whatsovever with heat.
I WAS JUST WONDERING I READ SOMEWHERE THAT HID HEADLIGHTS DON'T WORK WELL WITH THE AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHTS. THE ARTICLE SAID THAT YOU NEED TO DEACTIVATE YOUR AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHTS. HID HEADLIGHTS CAN'T BE TURNED ON AND OFF A LOT SINCE THEY HAVE A BALLAST AND HAVE TO WARM UP. SO WHEN YOU TURN THE IGNITION KEY ON THE LIGHTS COME ON AND THEN GO OFF WHILE YOU CRANK THE VEHICLE THEN COME BACK ON. PLEASE TELL ME IF YOU EXPERIENCE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS.
I've had my HID's installed for a few months now...And so far no problems. I too kind of wondered if it would be a problem because of the situation you described...But I honestly don't think it will. Even so, the kits that I bought have a LIFETIME Warranty on both the bulbs and ballasts. I will say that if you are considering buying the kits...You need to be careful who you buy them from. There are a lot of "Bargins" out there, but be warned, you get what you pay for. I paid a little more for the kits I have...But I believe it was worth the extra you pay. Very simple install and customer service was good too. Here's the website where I bought my kits:
www.highintensityxenon.com
Hope this helps.
www.highintensityxenon.com
Hope this helps.
I would definitely recommend going with a real HID kit. 4300k is the way to go in my opinion if you're looking for the brightest output possible. Any higher color temps than that will start to look blue but the output will be diminshed. 4300k is a bright, diamond white and is what most luxury brands come with from the factory.
hid-lighting didn't have any in this color, but it looks like highintensityxenon.com has a kit for $349. Worth it imo.
hid-lighting didn't have any in this color, but it looks like highintensityxenon.com has a kit for $349. Worth it imo.
Trick for all who need bulb part# help. Look at your outer lense (lower portion). You will see bulb types on the lense. This is for all of youguys who can't afford the HID kitsthat want to put HID-type bulbs in your trucks...
ORIGINAL: myco01975
Trick for all who need bulb part# help. Look at your outer lense (lower portion). You will see bulb types on the lense. This is for all of youguys who can't afford the HID kitsthat want to put HID-type bulbs in your trucks...
Trick for all who need bulb part# help. Look at your outer lense (lower portion). You will see bulb types on the lense. This is for all of youguys who can't afford the HID kitsthat want to put HID-type bulbs in your trucks...
and why does it matter if it's hid kit or hid type bulb? It's gotta be the same size to fit.




