Hi, can someone tell me the procedure for replacing the oil pressure sensor without removing the intake manifold? I know it takes a special tool. Just wondering if anyone could provide any advice or tips on a way to get this done. Thanks for your time!

 

Okay, I realize I'm replying to a thread that's almost two and a half years old, but after searching for info on how to replace the oil pressure sensor on my 2007 Suburban (5.3L), I discovered a severe lack of info/posts/videos on forums such as this or Youtube. I'm not going to provide a complete post either, but I want to share some important lessons I just learned that should help others complete their sensor swap.

The reason I replaced my sensor was a Check Engine light with the code P0523 (Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit condition). My engine consumes oil and I regularly top it off when the "Engine Oil Low" light comes on. This time there was no such warning and there was enough oil in the engine. Before running to the parts store and spending $50 on a new sensor, check your oil filter and make sure it's tight. As luck would have it, I went to the trouble of replacing my oil sensor and it didn't make the Check Engine light go out. Tightening the oil filter afterwards did! This simple tip might save you money and prevent you from wasting time replacing a perfectly good part. If, however, you do need to swap out the sensor, keep reading.

First off, the tool you need is a 1-1/16" socket. I picked one up at Autozone for $7.99. It came only in a 1/2" drive, so I opted to also purchase a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to use with my 3/8" socket wrench (I didn't have any 1/2" extensions, although they might work). Be aware that Autozone sells both a regular 1-1/16" socket as well as a Oil Pressure Switch Socket. I first purchased the specialized socket but it was too long and did not allow me to connect my adapter/universal joint/extension due to interference with tubing/piping that runs above the oil pressure switch. It is 3.5" long whereas the regular socket is only 3" and gave just enough room to connect everything. (See pic 1 below)

It took me about 45 minutes to remove and replace the switch, and I can't emphasize enough that it takes patience, patience, and more patience to do it right. The other posts I read said this job is done mostly by feel, and boy are they right. I put a blanket across the top of the radiator and actually laid across the radiator/intake manifold for most of this job. The sensor is located behind the right side of the manifold in a very tight spot. I can't imagine doing this if you're left-handed!

With the engine cover off, feel behind the heat shield for the electrical connector. There is a tab on the side of the electrical connector that locks it in place, so you must feel for the tab and gently pull it away from the oil pressure switch while at the same time lifting up on it. One site I read recommended wrapping the electrical wire around a finger to get more leverage on it, but mine popped off pretty easily once I pulled the locking tab away. Next step is to get the socket onto the switch.

The combination of tools I used is in pic 2 below. It was made up of the 3" long 1-1/16" socket, a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, a 3/8" universal joint, a 6" extension and a 3/8" socket wrench. I placed these onto the old switch in this exact order, starting with the socket first. I do not believe you can accomplish this with all the pieces connected. Once everything was assembled, I tried to break the seal on the old switch but didn't have enough torque with my 3/8" wrench, so I removed it from the extension, added a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to the extension, and then connected my 1/2" socket wrench. Space was tight but it allowed me to get the old switch turning. Once I had it turning, I swapped back to my 3/8" wrench and had a little more wiggle room to utilize. Once the switch was completely out, I disassembled the wrench/extension/u-joint/adapter piece by piece and used a finger underneath the socket to make sure the old switch didn't fall out. Congrats...the hard part is done!

Installation was easy and in reverse order of what I explained above. Slowly work your hand back behind the manifold and feel where the hole is. You should be able to hand turn the new switch enough to get it seated, then it's socket-adapter-u-joint-extension-wrench and tighten!

 

Welcome to the forum.

Great write-up. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Your advice was spot on. I had no clue even where to find it, let alone get it changed and your directions and advice were perfect.
Thanks for taking the time to help the rest of us.

The only extra advice I would give is to make sure you hang on to the seal that comes off with the sensor. It is actually a part for the electrical connector and you have to by the entire connector if you lose it (it was a $60 mistake).

 

Germy219 Welcome to the forum... glad the thread information worked for you, and thanks for following up with a post that it worked for you and the added tip... that is what makes the forum work

 

So after procrastinating on this forever I tackled the job today. Thanks for the right up. It was not easy but I think actual work time was around 45 minutes. I used a 27mm impact socket from Harbor Freight for less than $5. Could not find a better choice.
I installed switch part number 12616646 and the filter 12585328. I think the filter had a lot to do with the issue.
I had similar issue with the warning and found that keeping the oil changed every 3,000 miles and using a AC Delco filter worked for me. In the last couple of weeks however the switch stopped working at all and was always on 0. Had no warning message but DTC for switch was set.
I would recommend changing the filter as well if going thru the pain of changing the switch. I was only able to remove the filter but poking thru it with a pick I have and pulling it up and out. See picture of the filter, pretty nasty.

 

I changed the sensor and cleaned the filter under it with brake cleaner. Was careful when I removed the small filter. Instead of using pick I used a 2" long 5/16 dia,(or was it 3/8?) bolt and gently threaded it into the filter just enough to pull filter out. Cleaned and replaced it. Did the trick

 

 

This video was OK but not complete. 1. I changed the sensor without removing any lines. The only pia is the plastic sound barrier which I wedged out of the way. 2. He doesn't mention about changing or cleaning the screen filter below the sensor. If you don't, you possibly will not remedy the problem. I think having small hands is the trick!

 

my main thing would be using an OEM sensor