i apologize for the hijack as well. that looks straight off the showroom floor. looks more like a '14 and not an '07! good going on the cleanliness. you know the saying cleanliness is next to godliness!

 

Update
(we can try to help this thread come to closure, and mark it as a solution)

About 10 days ago I pulled all the cables off the battery, cleaned the connectors and posts with a battery terminal cleaner. I checked all the wire-connector joints, cleaned up the negative-to-alternator connection, and even cleaned up the positive-to-mega fuse connection (although that was pretty clean already). Overall, there was no major corrosion or noticeable loose connections during the process.

I wanted to do the basic clean-up before installing a new engine-to-ground strap, just so I can be more pin-pointed in my troubleshooting.

Well, since doing this I have not had and "flare-ups" as mentioned at the beginning of this post. The truck has dropped a couple mpg (probably needs a tune-up now), but all the odd electrical issues seem to have gone away. I've probably put a good 6 hours and 200 or so miles on it driving around town, which would have been plenty of time for me to see something.

I don't know if the low oil pressure issue was related to the electrical issue (filter seemed to fix that), but this forum was able to help me narrow down the weird electrical issues by simply cleaning up and making solid electrical connections.

Thank all of you so much for chiming in and helping out. If anything changes down the road, I will return to this forum and chime in.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I hope that solution solves the problem for good.

 

I was the unlucky bastard that unfortunately bought this truck from the OP. I really wish I would of researched the VIN a little better and came across this post before the purchase. None of these issues were ever discussed and the same day I bought it, it died in the publix shopping plaza. Gotta love used car deals. After countless electrical issues, broken motor mounts and a $2500 front end rebuild, I can happily say that I traded in that piece of **** and went back to a Toyota. This will probably be my only post to this forum but I really can't believe you guys continue to buy these piles of garbage. Best of luck to you all for this was a huge mistake buying a Tahoe in the first place..

 

Yes you will have experiences and problems like that when you purchase a used vehicle that had the hell ran out of it by its previous owner!!

 

Do you have a diagram of the ground wiring that you Replaced!! I swear I'm about a half a tank of gas away from putting a bottle rocket In the tank and watching it burn with some weenies and smores!! The LOUD THUNK is deafening!! Headlights dim and brighten.. it's unreliable and has left me stranded more times than it has gotten me to any destinations..

 

So I’ve had my 2007 Tahoe for about 4 months now and recently I’ve been experiencing these weird electrical issues right when the vehicle is started. It happens often when I try to remote start. Things like the time on the head unit resetting the CD player repeatedly ejecting and inserting. High revs and the speedometer going up to 10mph and the doors locking. Also the ac resets the 74 degrees. I’ve already went to autozone and had the battery checked and it was good so it’s not the battery. About 2 months ago it showed a code of service charging system because I had been working on installing some aftermarket headlights. I was trying to aim the and had the car in the run position and afterwards I turned it on and let it run for a bit after it showed that code, and it never showed it again. Just wondering if anyone else experiencing this or if my car is possessed.

 

Weak battery. AZ test saying it's OK doesn't mean anything. Counter people there are clueless. Just because it key starts doesn't mean battery is OK. Especially if you do not know how old the battery is or its more than 3 yrs. old.
Big clue is the AC resetting to 74. That's the default temp. after a battery has been disconnected or voltage drops too low on a startup. This is assuming cables are clean and in good shape.
With a voltmeter on the battery, it should be at least 12.6v at rest on a good fully charged battery. Start motor then shut off and see how much the battery has ''bounced'' back after that load on it. Should not be under 12.4v if healthy.