2008 Tahoe Electrical Problems
March 9th, 2015, 11:06 PM
#21
CF Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to the forum...
How old is the battery?
Have you had the battery and charging system checked?
How do the battery cables look?
Have you cleaned them and tightened on both ends?
The engine to chassis ground strap needs to be clean and tight..
Check and tighten the generator mounting bolts as well as its wired connection.
How old is the battery?
Have you had the battery and charging system checked?
How do the battery cables look?
Have you cleaned them and tightened on both ends?
The engine to chassis ground strap needs to be clean and tight..
Check and tighten the generator mounting bolts as well as its wired connection.
March 10th, 2015, 12:09 PM
#22
I have a dual battery setup and the dang connectors are always coming loose. Giving me a similar headache,
My battery closest to the firewall does not come loose, but for some reason the front one does. SMH
My battery closest to the firewall does not come loose, but for some reason the front one does. SMH
May 4th, 2015, 8:33 PM
#24
Electrical Power problem
I also have a 2008 Tahoe LT and also experienced a similar problem. New top of
the line Diehard battery only 6 months old, turned off engine for a quick stop and 10 minutes later, no electrical power, completely dead. Opened the hood cables where tight no corrosion nothing obvious. Sat inside about ready to call
tow truck and heard clicking sounds from the door control switches (lights,windows, locks etc,) I inserted the key back in the ignition and turned the key and like magic the dash warning lights came on as always and it started
without a problem. I drove straight to the local chevy dealer spoke with the
service manager who only suggested having the battery tested. I will do
that ASAP but I will also check grounds and the in-line fuse directly fed off the positive battery terminal. It's a small block box mounted to the firewall close to the battery. I'll update post tomorrow, thanks to everyone who replied to the post I am an electrical engineer and agree with everything mentioned.
Thanks
Fly fisherman
the line Diehard battery only 6 months old, turned off engine for a quick stop and 10 minutes later, no electrical power, completely dead. Opened the hood cables where tight no corrosion nothing obvious. Sat inside about ready to call
tow truck and heard clicking sounds from the door control switches (lights,windows, locks etc,) I inserted the key back in the ignition and turned the key and like magic the dash warning lights came on as always and it started
without a problem. I drove straight to the local chevy dealer spoke with the
service manager who only suggested having the battery tested. I will do
that ASAP but I will also check grounds and the in-line fuse directly fed off the positive battery terminal. It's a small block box mounted to the firewall close to the battery. I'll update post tomorrow, thanks to everyone who replied to the post I am an electrical engineer and agree with everything mentioned.
Thanks
Fly fisherman
May 6th, 2015, 10:19 AM
#25
Official GM Rep
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Global Headquarters in Detroit, MI
Posts: 4,167
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
21 Posts
I also have a 2008 Tahoe LT and also experienced a similar problem. New top of
the line Diehard battery only 6 months old, turned off engine for a quick stop and 10 minutes later, no electrical power, completely dead. Opened the hood cables where tight no corrosion nothing obvious. Sat inside about ready to call
tow truck and heard clicking sounds from the door control switches (lights,windows, locks etc,) I inserted the key back in the ignition and turned the key and like magic the dash warning lights came on as always and it started
without a problem. I drove straight to the local chevy dealer spoke with the
service manager who only suggested having the battery tested. I will do
that ASAP but I will also check grounds and the in-line fuse directly fed off the positive battery terminal. It's a small block box mounted to the firewall close to the battery. I'll update post tomorrow, thanks to everyone who replied to the post I am an electrical engineer and agree with everything mentioned.
Thanks
Fly fisherman
the line Diehard battery only 6 months old, turned off engine for a quick stop and 10 minutes later, no electrical power, completely dead. Opened the hood cables where tight no corrosion nothing obvious. Sat inside about ready to call
tow truck and heard clicking sounds from the door control switches (lights,windows, locks etc,) I inserted the key back in the ignition and turned the key and like magic the dash warning lights came on as always and it started
without a problem. I drove straight to the local chevy dealer spoke with the
service manager who only suggested having the battery tested. I will do
that ASAP but I will also check grounds and the in-line fuse directly fed off the positive battery terminal. It's a small block box mounted to the firewall close to the battery. I'll update post tomorrow, thanks to everyone who replied to the post I am an electrical engineer and agree with everything mentioned.
Thanks
Fly fisherman
We see that you have some engine concerns with your 2008 Tahoe, and we'd like to apologize for any inconvenience you've experienced. Nonetheless, I am happy to hear you were able to speak to your dealer regarding this issue. Should you need an extra layer of assistance, feel free to send us a private message and I'd be glad to help out!
Be sure to keep us updated on how everything turns out!
Jasmine F
Chevrolet Customer Care
September 13th, 2015, 5:25 PM
#26
CF Beginner
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2008 LTZ issues
driving down the road and it starts with my radio shutting off, it won't come back on my headlight flicker park assist is displayed on my display. Sometimes I lose my blinker noise but the blinkers work. I remove the radio fuse under the hood and replace it again when this happens and all is good for a bit. At its worse there will be times I shut my truck off and it is dead. I wiggle the cables and it will restart with no issues. I took it to my mechanic and he metered the cables and said they were good he cleaned every ground and cable that had anything to do with the starting system or the radio. It ran great for a few months and now it's back to acting up again. Mainly the radio and blinker noise and door chime is gone. I love my truck but the dealers gonna get it back soon on trade if I can't figure this out.
September 15th, 2015, 8:19 AM
#27
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2008 LTZ issues
Hi,
I had the exact same issue. What i found was in the fuse box under the hood. You have to take it completely out, apart, and fix the bad contact rails. Its not too hard, just take pictures of all your fuses in before you start. You will find burn marks on the rails. clean those up, tighten the "jaws" that hold the fuses, and put it all back together. it will take about 3 hours. I have had no issues since then, and that has been since 2010. If you want to try a quick fix, then pull the fuses out, spray deox in the sockets, and put the fuses back in. that should last for a little while, but until you tighten the jaws, and clean the burn spots, it will keep coming back. My friend at an automotive shop has done tahoes since i did mine, and it fixed them all.
randy
I had the exact same issue. What i found was in the fuse box under the hood. You have to take it completely out, apart, and fix the bad contact rails. Its not too hard, just take pictures of all your fuses in before you start. You will find burn marks on the rails. clean those up, tighten the "jaws" that hold the fuses, and put it all back together. it will take about 3 hours. I have had no issues since then, and that has been since 2010. If you want to try a quick fix, then pull the fuses out, spray deox in the sockets, and put the fuses back in. that should last for a little while, but until you tighten the jaws, and clean the burn spots, it will keep coming back. My friend at an automotive shop has done tahoes since i did mine, and it fixed them all.
randy
September 15th, 2015, 11:57 AM
#29
Administrator
Davidsweet Welcome to the forum...
Do be sure to disconnect the battery before removing the fuse box and do keep in mind the vehicle will "reset" so the throttle may do a relearn as well as the HVAC system, and don't be surprised if your Engine Hours clock resets....
Do be sure to disconnect the battery before removing the fuse box and do keep in mind the vehicle will "reset" so the throttle may do a relearn as well as the HVAC system, and don't be surprised if your Engine Hours clock resets....
March 22nd, 2016, 4:39 PM
#30
CF Beginner
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry I didn't post this sooner as when an issue's fixed its hard to come back and give the solution.
So i found my issue, While driving down the road one day it acted up real bad I knew the moment I turned my truck off it was not going to start. It was gonna be dead as a door nail. Sure as heck it was. I had a friend with so I had him hold the key to the on position and opened the hood and slowly started checking connections. I started with grounds and then with power. Low and behold once I twisted the positive cable at the battery terminal VVrrroom!! It started right up!!!
I looked for corrosion and there was nothing to be found I went and picked up a package of new Battery Terminals and went home to replace them. I found because the old Battery Terminals were drop downs that I would have to turn my battery around to make the new cables ends work. I have not had an issue since!
Word to the wise just because you don't see corrosion doesn't mean there's not any!!
So i found my issue, While driving down the road one day it acted up real bad I knew the moment I turned my truck off it was not going to start. It was gonna be dead as a door nail. Sure as heck it was. I had a friend with so I had him hold the key to the on position and opened the hood and slowly started checking connections. I started with grounds and then with power. Low and behold once I twisted the positive cable at the battery terminal VVrrroom!! It started right up!!!
I looked for corrosion and there was nothing to be found I went and picked up a package of new Battery Terminals and went home to replace them. I found because the old Battery Terminals were drop downs that I would have to turn my battery around to make the new cables ends work. I have not had an issue since!
Word to the wise just because you don't see corrosion doesn't mean there's not any!!
