2010 Suburban electrical issue- dealer stumped!!
Hi all, new guy here looking for advice.
I have a 2010 Suburban that I've owned for the last 4 years. Never had a single problem, until two weeks ago. Here's a detailed (and long winded) description of the symptoms:
On the way home from work few blocks from home, door locks began going up and down on their own, all indicator lights(air bag, seat belt, etc) lit up on dash, vehicle appeared to lose ignition momentarily, then everything came back to life. Made it home with no other issues. Checked all battery connections, cables, etc under hood. All appeared to be good. battery is less than a year old.
Next day drove locally. Within a few minutes of driving, 'service stabilitrak' came on. Shortly afterwards, vehicle began freaking out again-door locks going up and down, momentary loss of ignition, gauges going down, then up. Was on the interstate so I hit the Onstar button. They ran a diagnostic and found nothing. Pulled the vehicle over, shut off vehicle, then restarted. No further problems that day. Replaced the ignition switch hoping that could be the problem.
Next day same thing, so I took it to the dealership. They did a full scan and found no codes flagged. They replaced the RUN relay under the hood hoping that could be the issue. Appeared that shutting the vehicle off, then restarting makes the problem stop, at least for the remainder of the day's trip.
Following two days, zero problems, thinking maybe the ignition switch or RUN relay could have been the problem. Feeling confident, we drove the vehicle to Disney, 10 hour trip. First 4 hours no problems at all. Pulled over and grabbed some gas and food, shut the vehicle off. Got back on the Interstate. Two minutes in, cruise control turned off by itself. Hitting the turn signal caused popping in the radio. Air bag light came on. Then the damn 'service stabilitrak' light came on. This time I paid attention to the battery needle. It was lower than I've ever seen it since owning this truck, and slowly rising and falling on its own. Now the door locks began firing, along with loss of ignition, gauges and lights on the dash going haywire. We pulled off the I-10, shut the vehicle off, then restarted. No problems for the next 6 hours. For the return trip, feeling scared, I drove the 10 hour trip straight without shutting the vehicle off, no problems.
My thoughts, and some coworkers, is that the regulator in the alternator could be flaking out, but that should trigger codes which the dealership didn't see, or not??? Sorry for the long winded post, but sometimes more details of a problem are better than fewer. It appears that the voltage could be dropping so low that the vehicles BCM is starved for voltage causing the issues, but the problem is intermittent!! Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
I have a 2010 Suburban that I've owned for the last 4 years. Never had a single problem, until two weeks ago. Here's a detailed (and long winded) description of the symptoms:
On the way home from work few blocks from home, door locks began going up and down on their own, all indicator lights(air bag, seat belt, etc) lit up on dash, vehicle appeared to lose ignition momentarily, then everything came back to life. Made it home with no other issues. Checked all battery connections, cables, etc under hood. All appeared to be good. battery is less than a year old.
Next day drove locally. Within a few minutes of driving, 'service stabilitrak' came on. Shortly afterwards, vehicle began freaking out again-door locks going up and down, momentary loss of ignition, gauges going down, then up. Was on the interstate so I hit the Onstar button. They ran a diagnostic and found nothing. Pulled the vehicle over, shut off vehicle, then restarted. No further problems that day. Replaced the ignition switch hoping that could be the problem.
Next day same thing, so I took it to the dealership. They did a full scan and found no codes flagged. They replaced the RUN relay under the hood hoping that could be the issue. Appeared that shutting the vehicle off, then restarting makes the problem stop, at least for the remainder of the day's trip.
Following two days, zero problems, thinking maybe the ignition switch or RUN relay could have been the problem. Feeling confident, we drove the vehicle to Disney, 10 hour trip. First 4 hours no problems at all. Pulled over and grabbed some gas and food, shut the vehicle off. Got back on the Interstate. Two minutes in, cruise control turned off by itself. Hitting the turn signal caused popping in the radio. Air bag light came on. Then the damn 'service stabilitrak' light came on. This time I paid attention to the battery needle. It was lower than I've ever seen it since owning this truck, and slowly rising and falling on its own. Now the door locks began firing, along with loss of ignition, gauges and lights on the dash going haywire. We pulled off the I-10, shut the vehicle off, then restarted. No problems for the next 6 hours. For the return trip, feeling scared, I drove the 10 hour trip straight without shutting the vehicle off, no problems.
My thoughts, and some coworkers, is that the regulator in the alternator could be flaking out, but that should trigger codes which the dealership didn't see, or not??? Sorry for the long winded post, but sometimes more details of a problem are better than fewer. It appears that the voltage could be dropping so low that the vehicles BCM is starved for voltage causing the issues, but the problem is intermittent!! Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
Hi all, new guy here looking for advice.
I have a 2010 Suburban that I've owned for the last 4 years. Never had a single problem, until two weeks ago. Here's a detailed (and long winded) description of the symptoms:
On the way home from work few blocks from home, door locks began going up and down on their own, all indicator lights(air bag, seat belt, etc) lit up on dash, vehicle appeared to lose ignition momentarily, then everything came back to life. Made it home with no other issues. Checked all battery connections, cables, etc under hood. All appeared to be good. battery is less than a year old.
Next day drove locally. Within a few minutes of driving, 'service stabilitrak' came on. Shortly afterwards, vehicle began freaking out again-door locks going up and down, momentary loss of ignition, gauges going down, then up. Was on the interstate so I hit the Onstar button. They ran a diagnostic and found nothing. Pulled the vehicle over, shut off vehicle, then restarted. No further problems that day. Replaced the ignition switch hoping that could be the problem.
Next day same thing, so I took it to the dealership. They did a full scan and found no codes flagged. They replaced the RUN relay under the hood hoping that could be the issue. Appeared that shutting the vehicle off, then restarting makes the problem stop, at least for the remainder of the day's trip.
Following two days, zero problems, thinking maybe the ignition switch or RUN relay could have been the problem. Feeling confident, we drove the vehicle to Disney, 10 hour trip. First 4 hours no problems at all. Pulled over and grabbed some gas and food, shut the vehicle off. Got back on the Interstate. Two minutes in, cruise control turned off by itself. Hitting the turn signal caused popping in the radio. Air bag light came on. Then the damn 'service stabilitrak' light came on. This time I paid attention to the battery needle. It was lower than I've ever seen it since owning this truck, and slowly rising and falling on its own. Now the door locks began firing, along with loss of ignition, gauges and lights on the dash going haywire. We pulled off the I-10, shut the vehicle off, then restarted. No problems for the next 6 hours. For the return trip, feeling scared, I drove the 10 hour trip straight without shutting the vehicle off, no problems.
My thoughts, and some coworkers, is that the regulator in the alternator could be flaking out, but that should trigger codes which the dealership didn't see, or not??? Sorry for the long winded post, but sometimes more details of a problem are better than fewer. It appears that the voltage could be dropping so low that the vehicles BCM is starved for voltage causing the issues, but the problem is intermittent!! Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
I have a 2010 Suburban that I've owned for the last 4 years. Never had a single problem, until two weeks ago. Here's a detailed (and long winded) description of the symptoms:
On the way home from work few blocks from home, door locks began going up and down on their own, all indicator lights(air bag, seat belt, etc) lit up on dash, vehicle appeared to lose ignition momentarily, then everything came back to life. Made it home with no other issues. Checked all battery connections, cables, etc under hood. All appeared to be good. battery is less than a year old.
Next day drove locally. Within a few minutes of driving, 'service stabilitrak' came on. Shortly afterwards, vehicle began freaking out again-door locks going up and down, momentary loss of ignition, gauges going down, then up. Was on the interstate so I hit the Onstar button. They ran a diagnostic and found nothing. Pulled the vehicle over, shut off vehicle, then restarted. No further problems that day. Replaced the ignition switch hoping that could be the problem.
Next day same thing, so I took it to the dealership. They did a full scan and found no codes flagged. They replaced the RUN relay under the hood hoping that could be the issue. Appeared that shutting the vehicle off, then restarting makes the problem stop, at least for the remainder of the day's trip.
Following two days, zero problems, thinking maybe the ignition switch or RUN relay could have been the problem. Feeling confident, we drove the vehicle to Disney, 10 hour trip. First 4 hours no problems at all. Pulled over and grabbed some gas and food, shut the vehicle off. Got back on the Interstate. Two minutes in, cruise control turned off by itself. Hitting the turn signal caused popping in the radio. Air bag light came on. Then the damn 'service stabilitrak' light came on. This time I paid attention to the battery needle. It was lower than I've ever seen it since owning this truck, and slowly rising and falling on its own. Now the door locks began firing, along with loss of ignition, gauges and lights on the dash going haywire. We pulled off the I-10, shut the vehicle off, then restarted. No problems for the next 6 hours. For the return trip, feeling scared, I drove the 10 hour trip straight without shutting the vehicle off, no problems.
My thoughts, and some coworkers, is that the regulator in the alternator could be flaking out, but that should trigger codes which the dealership didn't see, or not??? Sorry for the long winded post, but sometimes more details of a problem are better than fewer. It appears that the voltage could be dropping so low that the vehicles BCM is starved for voltage causing the issues, but the problem is intermittent!! Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
Welcome to the forum!
We truly apologize for the unexpected concerns! We can imagine how unsettling this may seem, and we would be happy to look into this further for you. Please send us a private message along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and preferred dealership. Looking forward to your response.
Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
PM Sent!! Thanks!!!
Hi Yaryar1,
Welcome to the forum!
We truly apologize for the unexpected concerns! We can imagine how unsettling this may seem, and we would be happy to look into this further for you. Please send us a private message along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and preferred dealership. Looking forward to your response.
Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
Welcome to the forum!
We truly apologize for the unexpected concerns! We can imagine how unsettling this may seem, and we would be happy to look into this further for you. Please send us a private message along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and preferred dealership. Looking forward to your response.
Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
Sounds like you're on the right track - low voltage. Check condition/tension of your serpentine, then go to an auto parts store and have them check the charging system. My money would be on a bad/dying alternator.
OK, took the vehicle to the dealership this morning. It acted up on the way there, and I was able to take a video of it. One thing that prompted me to thinking that it would act up is that the battery needle was lagging below what I'm used to seeing. Sure enough, 'Stabilitrak Off' popped up a few times, along with chimes and dash lights coming on. The mechanic checked it out and told me that he found evidence of arcing at the 'megafuse' under the hood, as it also had high resistance(20 ohms) in addition to the visual evidence of arcing. Hopefully this resolves the problem!!!!
OK, took the vehicle to the dealership this morning. It acted up on the way there, and I was able to take a video of it. One thing that prompted me to thinking that it would act up is that the battery needle was lagging below what I'm used to seeing. Sure enough, 'Stabilitrak Off' popped up a few times, along with chimes and dash lights coming on. The mechanic checked it out and told me that he found evidence of arcing at the 'megafuse' under the hood, as it also had high resistance(20 ohms) in addition to the visual evidence of arcing. Hopefully this resolves the problem!!!!

If you are able, please post the video or a link to it, it could help someone else diagnosis a similar problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
spoiler429
Silverado, Sierra & Fullsize Pick-ups
0
Jun 18, 2010 12:22 PM




