I bought a 2011 Suburban LT with 135k miles on it just a few months ago. I love it. The kids really love it on trips. But it seems to have a number of little issues. (Many of which are common from what I'm reading.)
I have the cracked dash. I got the Traction Control / Stabilitrak message one day, but it went away on its own. My rear doors can lower the windows, but the driver needs to put them back up.

I am hoping to fix the Service Park Assist issue though. The dealer "fixed" the issue when I bought it by replacing one sensor. Just after my warranty period it came back. I did the trick where I tried to figure out which one was causing the problem, and tried to fix that one. I found it EXTREMELY difficult to get my hands between the bumper and the frame, and in the process, I broke the brittle connector that was holding that sensor in, so the message light never turned off. I decided to go big or go home. Even though I don't know much of anything about anything, I decided to figure out how to remove the bumper, bought a new replacement cable, and replaced all 4 sensors. It took me way longer than expected, my hands are bleeding all over the place, but I felt the sense of accomplishment when I got everything back together...it still says "Service Park Assist".

At the same time, the past few times I've gotten out of the Suburban, even though I have the key in my hand, I get 3 chimes. I have no idea what that means, I don't know if it's related, and it only happens probably 1/2 the time or less. But it has happened about 5-6 times.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to know what I need to do to make the park assist work again. (And if anyone knows what those 3 chimes are trying to tell me, that would be great too!)

Thanks so much.

-Mike. (New to the forum, new to Suburban ownership, and liking both!)

 

I just discovered that my Tahoe has the same "feature" on just one of my back doors. It appears to be a switch or wiring issue, I was able to get it to work briefly by banging on the arm rest. I'll have to dig into this later.
The 3 chimes sound is the warning for "The doors are about to be locked !!" If you wait a couple of seconds listen for the door locks to go CLICK and the horn should "chirp". Hopefully the keys are not inside.
When you were getting out of the Suburban you bumped the door lock switch on the arm rest, this signals the computer to lock the doors automatically.

 

You're right about the door. Although it happens a lot even when I'm nowhere near the lock button. But if I stand there and wait 5 seconds it locks on its own.

I still can't seem to clear the Service Park Assist though. I guess I'll have to take it in to be serviced. That stinks!!

 

So, I guess the problem was that I bought bad sensors. I took the Suburban into the local Chevy dealership and they tested that 3 of the 4 sensors were actually bad. I paid $34 for all 4 on eBay. (You get what you pay for?) They wanted $660 parts, plus labor to replace them. And at the end, they will still need to paint them because they said they typically come in white.
I said no (obviously) and talked with the mechanic. He was embarrassed by how expensive their parts can be, and said he typically buys his parts on Rockauto.com, but that sometimes he runs into the "you get what you pay for" scenario there too. But I am giving it a try. Since I already figured out how to replace them, I ordered 4 new ones from Rockauto for just under $100 and I'll try this again.

I had them look at my 2nd row seat too, because the driver side on my 60/40 bench would not fold up. They said the latch is seized, and quoted $400 for that part as well. I figure it's just as easy to just tell the kids they need to get in the other side.

Very disappointing. But I feel that I have my answer.

 

I just replaced all 4 sensors with sensors from Rock Auto online and they finally work!!!!
So I guess it really was bad sensors all along. $88 instead of $34 for bad sensors on eBay or $660 for GM sensors from the dealership.

Last time it took me hours to get the bumper off and replace everything. Now that I know how, it took probably 15 minutes. I have to admit, I feel pretty good about it. I'm someone who can't even change his own oil so that was actually fun for me. I'm ready to figure out the next thing I should fix on my Suburban now!!

 

So, here's an update to my story. Quickly after I installed the Rock Auto sensors, the light would come back on, but the sensors actually work when backing up. As soon as it's in drive, the "Service Park Assist" light comes back on. So they work in Reverse, and fail in Drive.

I took it to a garage for another unrelated issue. (I've had this Suburban for 6 months and now I have $1,000 into fixing problems...)
He said it's a "known issue" that aftermarket park assist sensors do not work with these vehicles. Three of them are reading as failing, (which was the same statement GM garage said about my $34 sensors) even though they do appear to work while backing up.

So for now, it's simply not worth fixing for me. If anyone has experience with this, or with another aftermarket sensor or wire harness, I'd be happy to hear your experience!!! But I'm going to have to accept that I need to reset the "Service Park Assist" every time I ever put the car in drive.

 

What a thread! Welcome to the Chevy experience!
~> Parking Sensor- Last year I bought one and swapped 'em out until my error went away. It's Black (not Grey) but I don't care.

~> Rear windows- sound like maybe the switch is not making connection for the "windows up". (YT: how to fix stuck power window on GMC / Chevy Truck) Before you try that- squirt a little lube down into the window track and with key on, hold the button up while you slam the door. Sometimes the track is just sticky. Worth a shot- those switches are like $30!

~> Chirps: There's an auto-lock feature. You can change it in the DIC using the info buttons to the right of the speedo.

~> Dash: If it hasn't cracked all the way, you can usually stop a crack from extending by drilling a small hole at the end of the crack

~> 2nd Row: University of Youtube offers a course in MacGyvering a custom tool to unlock the seized latch. (HOW TO Easily Unlock Your Stuck Rear Seat in Seconds)

-StabliTrack~> My issue was a little connector was loose down in the wheel well. The plastic doodah that held it above the shock was busted and the connector had been jiggling around in the muck. Fixed with Zip Tie.

 

I actually got that exact Dorman parking sensor part number, but from Rock Auto. I also got this harness from Amazon:

I guess it's possible the harness is the problem. But I replaced all 4 of the sensors. It's so strange to me that they work when it's in reverse, but the Service Park Assist message comes on within minutes of putting it in drive or even just starting the vehicle. But every time I go back in reverse it works while I'm backing up.

I did see the latch YouTube video, and I struggled with it. I believe that it's a little more stuck than that, but I'm going to try again.

Thanks for the reply!