Changing out LCA on '95 K2500. Junk yard replacement, taken from a similar Silverado, is about 1/8" different in the spread between bushing arms. LCA's are duplicate in all other respects. Looks like I could make it work, but makes me nervous. How much deviation should occur between like LCA's?

Original LCA ball joint bolt holes were buggered up in epic battle removing rivets. Live and learn.

 

Should be ok, what do the bushings look like? Might be wise to just replace them since you have the arms in hand (no pun intended )

 

Unless the BJ holes were destroyed, it shouldn't matter as the replacements bolt in.

 

Re-read the GM manual. LCA went in without the torsion bar attached as specified. Have to remove the crossover support to re-insert the torsion bar into the LCA. Going to replace the LCA bushings on the drivers side as long as the torsion bar is out.

I did bugger up the holes in the passenger side LCR. Jack stands didn't give me quite enough room to hammer from below. drilled and hammered, drilled and hammered. Went at it from above next, drilled and hammered. Rivets were 80% gone before they gave in. I wobbled out two of the rivet holes drilling.

You can't buy experience like this. Alignment will be the next challenge.

 

I pressed in new bushings. They call for a crimp on the front bush. I used a punch to bend bushing metal out. What is a factory crimp put on with?

 

My take? That is to keep the bushing from spinning, although I don't think it would matter other than "wear". It could also be to lock it to the arm, although for years lock nuts were used on the stud arms. You should be good to go IF you use NEW hardware, i.e washers, nuts ect.

 

Use an air chisel next time. Lot easier and doesn't muck up the holes.