I use Simple Green for just about everything, just be careful when rinsing the parts to not force water into the sensor connectors, and give it time to dry out in the sun, blowing it off with compressed air will expedite it.

As for the intake itself I used carb cleaner and paper towels to clean up what I could, be careful about how much carb cleaner goes down the intake so that at start up the cylinder walls aren't stripped of lubricating oil.

You can also try Seafoam thru the brake booster vacuum line after everything is put back together, you will need a drip applicator for that if you choose to do it.

I regularly rinse my engine and use foaming Simple Green when needed about every time I wash my truck so the under hood is pretty clean, I follow up with Amorall and WD-40. I try to keep to keep it clean so if and when I have to take it in for servicing the tech sees I take care of it so hopefully he will too. Give your engine a good washing the day before you start to minimize debris.

Mechanics gloves are nice too but some people don't like the restrictiveness, you could also try just latex or nitrile gloves.

If you can take pictures of connectors as you take them off so you have something to refer back to if need be, its the routing of vacuum lines that were more of a bear for me, more so for looks.
The electrical connectors are all just about all unique to each sensor and the harness will pretty much conform back to where it was when you took it off.
Writing the number down of how many you took off and counting back down as you connect them will help prevent anything from being missed.

The fuel line fiasco was more due to having to get good access under the hood and making sure they were fully seated.

 

the throttle cable is pretty easy, once you get the air intake out of the way, just rotate the throttle plate a bit to get the tension off and the cable will un-wrap off.

The fuel lines just stick into the metering body and the o-rings do most of the work just make sure the fuel lines are all the way in, a very light coating of lube may help just don't use too much so that fuel can squeeze past.
Be careful not to cut the o-rings while inserting the lines back in, then its just a very simple plate that holds the crimps on the fuel lines down so they don't push back out.

It's been a couple of years since I did the work but as I recall it was not difficult just a little time consuming, hopefully MDTAHOE can touch on any other details I might have missed.

 

Well think I'm going to tackle this project this weekend! Can't stand ole blue running this bad, and being in Dallas, makes it hard to merge into traffic. I usually wear my #20 Tony Stewart mechanics gloves, but they are saturated with oil, but since the race is here this weekend, guess I'm going to have to bust them out. I didn't think that anything would really harm the intake if I made sure and rinsed and dried very well, but thought I would ask first. I like simple green as well and use it under the hood and it seems to do a good job. Have what is belived to be a rear main seal leak, so I get to use it a lot more than I would like too! Haven't even thought about tackling that yet, but if this goes smoothly(as it should) I might be giving that a whirl next.

Just to throw it out there, do you think that the MAF being dirty could be causing all of these problems(misfire, running rough, loss of power, backfire)? That would be a lot less costly and time consuming if so, but I'm tired of replacing good parts. Thanks again for all of the help and I can't wait to post my success!

 

SHE DIED!!!!!!!!! Didn't get to work on the injectors this past weekend as planned, and on the way home from work tonight the blue hoe died! Just shut down. I tried to restart and would barely turn over. Noticed that I didn't get any oil pressure either. Any help on that would be appreciated. I don't know if the injectors went out if that affects the oil pressure or not, but I hope that is all it is.

 

Not sure if Tahoes do this but I've hear that some vehicles shut down the fuel pump if you lose oil pressure to prevent lunching the engine.

 

Towed it to my mechanic as I don't have time to work on it and need my vehicle. Guess we will wait and see. Hate not doing the work myself, but at this point I don't have a choice. His initial diagnosis is cam shaft position sensor or something else like that, but I will post what he finds. Think that the injectors are bad too, but need to get it cranked before we can determine that.

 

She's fixed(or that's what the mechanic says)! Distributor cap and rotor! I just replaced both about 40K miles ago, so I wouldn't think that they would have already gone out. Any opinions on this? Is there something else causing these two to go out prematurely, or is that normal?

Thank you all for your wisdom and help. I wish I would have been the one under the hood, but what can I say. My mechanic only charged me $150 for the work including parts, so guess I'm not out too much.

Thanks again.

 

Tim,
glad to hear you got her back running again, for the cap and rotor to go out so soon is kinda odd. I would expect at least 70K-100K are they after market parts? probably a good idea to check the plug gap as well.
The injectors are not likely to go all out at once, you will get hard starts, no starts or rough idle and hesitation as they go out.
The injectors don't so much go out as they wear out and the fuel delivery pattern or cone degrades and you get poor ignition or they start to clog and deliver less and less fuel.
FYI the cam shaft position sensor is located on the distributor, its not likely to go bad but the connector can be bumped and banged while replacing the cap and rotor.
Oil pumps in my opinion are pretty hardy on most chevy's I haven't heard of any going out recently in the forum unless you are talking 60's-80's model vehicles, more likely to go out is the pressure sensor, and I have also heard that if the oil pressure drops (bottoms out) the fuel will be shut off, Shawnvw or MDTAHOE may be able to answer to the truth of that one.

 

It's been a long time since I bought a dist. cap but always tried to get one w/ brass terminals as they tended to not corrode like the aluminum ones do and never had one break down and carbon track.

 

When I replaced the dist. cap and rotor I went cheap(pre-forum) and obviously what I replaced it with was a piece of crap! AC Delco in it now, so hopefully it will last another 100+K. My injectors should be clean as I've dumped 8 bottles of injector cleaner into 2 tanks of gas. Replaced all plugs w/ AC Delco platinum and checked factory gap before install. Should I check the gap on the plugs again since the dist. cap and rotor have been replaced? Not sure if the misfire fouled any plugs, but seems to be running great! It isn't the oil pump or related parts as my pressure is fine now. Thanks in2pro and 73shark for all of your help. I posted this question on a different site(Tahoe specific) and have 0 replies! Yikes! Hopefully this knowledge that I gained from everyone will be able to help someone else in the future(including myself-injectors).