I rebuilt my motor using a 93 rebuilt block and my 99 heads because I had a rod knocking in my 99 block.

I adjusted the valves while it was running by loosing the rocker arm until it ticked, tightened it up till it quit and gave it a 1/4 turn more. Then it was missfiring so I adjusted the valves the way the dealer told me by getting the motor at TDC and tightening and tightening a random order of intake and exhaust rockers until I could not spin the push rod and give in a 1/4 turn more.

It is not misfiring but it is idleing rough. It idles at 600-700. It stays running but is shaky at idle. When Im driving it, it is just fine.

I also have a screw hole on my distributor broken so the cap is on but not as well as it should be. The screw stil grabs but should be changed. That will be changed in a few weeks. It was like this before the rebuild but never affected it then.

Also I have a code read and it says catylac efficency low bank 2.

 

The first way you described is correct, the second way, not so much. You can do it that way w/ the engine off, just not in random order. You have to adjust the valves w/ each piston @ TDC on the firing stroke so that the lifter is on the base circle of the cam lobe.

With the engine running method, you have to do each one slowly to allow the lifter to collapse until it's centered. If you do it too fast, the each will run rough for a few seconds until the lifter has adjusted and allows the valve to fully close again.

 

Thank you. I noticed this morning that idles a lot better when it is cold. Once it warmed up, it was back to being rough

 

I upgraded my distributor to this one works great and 5 year warrenty

GM Chevy Vortec V8 5 7 5 0L 350CI Distributor 6672 BK | eBay

 

Relace the cap at least or upgrade the thing.
Timing a GM 5.0,5.7 and 4.3 (Vortec) - Truck Mod Central

 

Shamrock, that is awfully cheap for a distributor. The junk yard wants 65 and 140 from Autozone. This worked fine for you? If so that is an awesome find. Im am waiting another week to get paid and I will be replacing it.

I just wasnt sure if maybe there was a different issue someone might be able to think of. Like I said the distributor never was a problem before the rebuild or since the rebuild (1 1/2 months). It started the rough idle when the valves were adjusted the way the dealers told me.

 

Kevin the cap is less than 2 months old. It is the distributor that has the broken screw hole.

 

I think when it's cold, it is running in an open-loop mode, ie, the ECM is not looking at exhaust parameters to meter fuel and since it's cold, it'll run towards the rich side. A rich mixture will cover up a lot of other problems. When it warms up, it goes into closed-loop and leans out the mixture and something doesn't like that, most likely something in the ignition system but could be a vacuum leak.

 

It's working great,i started a thread on another forum and got some positive feed back so i got one because my screw holes were cracked and the gear had some wear

I would get the valves adjust right and the cam retard set and see how it runs

 

Thanks for the feedback. Keep us informed on how it works out.