About to purchase 08 suburban, what do I need to check?
#1
About to purchase 08 suburban, what do I need to check?
Hi everyone, I am new to the forum but hope to be a frequent contributor soon as I Am going to purchase a 2008 suburban with 38,000 miles...
But before I do so what things should I look for before I pull the trigger?
This is the one here
Used 2008 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 LT For Sale near Denver, CO | Vin: 3GNFK16358G207025.
Please let me know of any particular things I should be looking into!
But before I do so what things should I look for before I pull the trigger?
This is the one here
Used 2008 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 LT For Sale near Denver, CO | Vin: 3GNFK16358G207025.
Please let me know of any particular things I should be looking into!
#2
Welcome to the forum
looks like they offer a carfax report so that is a good place to start...
things you should do and take your time BEFORE you buy...
Check every single electrical item:
power mirrors, power locks, entertainment system and its remote.
Radio and DVD/CD player
Reverse sensor system, power adjust pedals, all 12 outlets, sun roof...
Open and close all doors from inside and outside, check the rear hatch and rear glass, check the defrost cable to the rear glass.
Check for the spare tire AND jack with tools, check that all power seats work and all seat options, heat cool etc...
fold the rear seats, check the rear AC and Heat functions and speeds...
make sure it comes with a navigation DVD if that is an option, make sure it works...
Don't take the salesman's word... get any and all "promises" in writing, ask for a full tank of gas and don't let them tell you they are only required to fill it to half...
Make sure the cross rails are in place for the roof rack...
looks like they offer a carfax report so that is a good place to start...
things you should do and take your time BEFORE you buy...
Check every single electrical item:
power mirrors, power locks, entertainment system and its remote.
Radio and DVD/CD player
Reverse sensor system, power adjust pedals, all 12 outlets, sun roof...
Open and close all doors from inside and outside, check the rear hatch and rear glass, check the defrost cable to the rear glass.
Check for the spare tire AND jack with tools, check that all power seats work and all seat options, heat cool etc...
fold the rear seats, check the rear AC and Heat functions and speeds...
make sure it comes with a navigation DVD if that is an option, make sure it works...
Don't take the salesman's word... get any and all "promises" in writing, ask for a full tank of gas and don't let them tell you they are only required to fill it to half...
Make sure the cross rails are in place for the roof rack...
#3
Welcome to the forum.
Also check for a cracked dash. Remove and install the third row seats. I guess studded tires are still OK in CO.
Basically check every thing that has a button. As are most new vehicles, these things are electrical beasts and everything goes thru a computer as it uses a bus system.
Good luck.
Also check for a cracked dash. Remove and install the third row seats. I guess studded tires are still OK in CO.
Basically check every thing that has a button. As are most new vehicles, these things are electrical beasts and everything goes thru a computer as it uses a bus system.
Good luck.
#5
Ok we checked it out yesterday. Passenger door lock doesn't work, third row seats are very hard to remove, and the tire pressure monitors seem to be busted! No cracked dash, me and the old lady aren't sure about it, we may wait and look for another...
#6
Would it make more sense to buy a newer model with more miles? For example, there's a 2010 for about the same price with 64k miles.
What do suburbans usually last? What major maintenance items will I be having to replace soon with a higher mileage vehicle?
What do suburbans usually last? What major maintenance items will I be having to replace soon with a higher mileage vehicle?
#7
I think "how long do they last" depends on the driver and what they will spend on maintenance. I have close to 93,000 miles on my Suburban. steering is as tight as can be, there is no rust anywhere on the body
(miraculous considering how much salt is used on wisconsins roads) there are no leaks and all electricals work. I take mine to the chev. dealership for all maint. Costs more but i would rather have someone that has worked on a suburban work on mine. i wont go near a franchised lube/oil shop.
By the way, my 2500 was assembled in Mexico, not arlington Tx. So much for poor qaulity of work south of the border.
Last edited by LTL4life; December 29th, 2012 at 11:26 AM. Reason: spelling
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#8
A 2010 still has a couple of years left on the 5/100 Powertrain warranty and 36K mi left. Major maintenance would be brake pads and possibly rotors, spark plugs/wires, tires, battery, fluid replacements, and maybe BG injector service and tranny flush.
#10
There is no ASE certification needed to change oil, lube a chassis or rotate tires... You can only hope that your dealership has a qualification process and standards higher then the lube shops....