Asking for advice about an 86 silverado suburban timing chain slip.
December 19th, 2021, 12:20 AM
#61
CF Monarch
Yeah, if you need heat, use a propane torch or if you are good enough, an acetylene torch use that but don't overdo that. I'd want those hydraulic lifters full of motor oil, but with me a 1/4 turn isn't enough. Lifters filled, I'd go half a turn to 3/4's of a turn. On my old man's 366 cubic inch BB I'd go a full turn, but that was long ago and his valves were Stellite sodium-cooled valves. They didn't use a BB like that monster was, in cars, as the torque was higher them even the old 427 BB motor. The 427 had more HP, but the 366 was more suited to pulling heavyweight then the 427 BB. Behind a Borg-Warner 5 speed transmission with electrical shifted two-speed axles that frakker got up and moved out. You could make in to a ten-speed, but not like a semi-truck ten-speed,but by split shifting the 2-speed axle. Time I was done, chucking the old speed control Holley out for a new 650 CFM one; adding a vacuum and centrifugal advance distributor and electronic ignition, that truck was doing 7.5 MPG, much higher than it had been. The one awful thing with it was burning up points every month, as it got a TON of use everyday, but that electric ignition modification I did got rid of that issue. So did CHUCKING the SMOG pump in the trash.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; December 19th, 2021 at 12:23 AM.
December 19th, 2021, 3:14 AM
#62
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hey henry, ... I saw a lot of valve adjusting videos in reference to the subject, but none were for those filled with oil. When you fill them,first, it makes them hard and you don't get the feel like when they are empty, so that to me was an issue. And the oil needs some kind of cleaner even with the fresh 10/30 I changed.. Thinking about it further ....I think cutting the 3/4 after zero lash in half making it almost 2 quarter turns on a worn engine , The way I did it, I felt I was close . I went with a molly type grease on the new ***** in the rockers, a dab on the tip on the valve,and a touch on each outside of the push rods ends not covering the oil holes and in not being sure IF I was on the compression stroke, since number 1 rods were quite bent, I had the kid holding his fimger on the plug hole and he did feel some air, as the rotor was coming up on # 1, but tomorrow, I will likely find out if I was wrong or not.
I got some rubber tubing, and some of the capillary too, but need new cover gaskets most likely. But once I have the vacuume lines connected, I can adjust the valves a smidgen, if necessary. Again I'm keeping my fingers crossed. As the timing needs reset too.
Were making homemade pizza tomorrow, half anchovy. , with pepperoni,, and other stuff, so If I failed, at least that will be good.
if it starts quiet, then starts popping again, that will let me know I have the cam gear off and Ill have to buy more push rods.
Then on to plan B. I didn't replace the plugs, even though they got gassed , but if the push rods don't bend, I will later.
THE Firing order is right, and all else checked out, but wish I owned a bore scope, but again I vasilate.
With the rods bent, I couldn't see the valve travel well, ..hopefully it will be a better day to work as it was colder today.
I will report back after I test it, thanks again for your support.
One more really stupid question, as this made me think: I wonder if anybody who ever got the timing chain off 180° ever put the distributor in backwards and made 6 number 1? Then wired it accordingly in order from there? I know somebody has thought about it, , but is it even possible? Not that I would try it, but it is an interesting question anyway in theory. I lived in Appalachia as a kid, and saw a lot of hillbillys trying crazy stuff with cars . But does anybody out there who understands the theory know the answer, and why ? I doubt I will get an answer, but I just had to ask.
I got some rubber tubing, and some of the capillary too, but need new cover gaskets most likely. But once I have the vacuume lines connected, I can adjust the valves a smidgen, if necessary. Again I'm keeping my fingers crossed. As the timing needs reset too.
Were making homemade pizza tomorrow, half anchovy. , with pepperoni,, and other stuff, so If I failed, at least that will be good.
if it starts quiet, then starts popping again, that will let me know I have the cam gear off and Ill have to buy more push rods.
Then on to plan B. I didn't replace the plugs, even though they got gassed , but if the push rods don't bend, I will later.
THE Firing order is right, and all else checked out, but wish I owned a bore scope, but again I vasilate.
With the rods bent, I couldn't see the valve travel well, ..hopefully it will be a better day to work as it was colder today.
I will report back after I test it, thanks again for your support.
One more really stupid question, as this made me think: I wonder if anybody who ever got the timing chain off 180° ever put the distributor in backwards and made 6 number 1? Then wired it accordingly in order from there? I know somebody has thought about it, , but is it even possible? Not that I would try it, but it is an interesting question anyway in theory. I lived in Appalachia as a kid, and saw a lot of hillbillys trying crazy stuff with cars . But does anybody out there who understands the theory know the answer, and why ? I doubt I will get an answer, but I just had to ask.
December 19th, 2021, 10:06 PM
#63
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Todays update on this repair job.
OK, I reconnected the vacuum lines, except left the valve covers off . I disconnected the power to the dizzy, and I turned it over for awhile to pump up oil + watch how the push rods moved , to be sure I wasn't off any of the lifters , + observe if any rockers were still coming off the valves. That checked out ok. I know that when number one is firing, the number 6 intake valve is opening, and watching the rockers and rods moving, all ...again, ...seemed ok . I hooked up the dist. power to its spot, and sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb primary flapper, and reset the choke to the spot I marked previously..... It wanted to start, but I had moved the distributor after installing the timing set, so I had to F with that using carb cleaner in place of starting fluid , as I have found it safer.
I had the kid turning the key for me, and , there was no more beltching gas up through the carb intake, + that was a good sign. I proceeded to use the carb cleaner and use the throttle , and the thing began to run with my help from the throttle. That tells me the carb Air fuel mixture valves needed adjusting, plus timing needed Re-set, and I continued to mess with the distributor , in order to find a spot where it might run on its own.
Finding a spot It actually started to run , without any lifter noise at all, and except for a squeaking belt that needed some belt ease, or something of that sort...the lifters , push rods, and all ran very true + quiet, .....so that was positive, and after it smoked up the manifold more on the drivers side , I was impressed that as far as I could tell from how it ran, I believe I GOT IT RIGHT !
NOW..... Except for setting the timing, choke, carb air jets, ETC., I only need to install new plugs and valve cover gaskets. In a nutshell the mechanical part of MY timing chain replacement looks to be complete.... just needs tweaked a bit, and regarding Oilcanhenrys prediction that He didn't think I bent any valves, I would say he is likely right. PHEW !
My .method for valve adjusting was to begin having the rotor on 6 or 1 close to tdc, using the rotor as an indicator to see where it is at, then adjusting OUT all the up and down end play on the pushrods that were loose after removing the old parts+ installing the new ones, lubing inside the rockers and on the ***** etc as outlined above doing one rocker at a time when replacing each pushrod , ball and nut first prior to adjusting any valves ( just went front to back), + did this on all 16 (saving the old parts to make a wind chime).(I also just wiped off the rockers with paper towels before lubeing and putting in the new parts.)
I rotated the crank clockwise 90 degrees from then on, tightening only the loose push rods from front to back on each side. After up and down movement of push rods was gone, I then went to turning the rods with my fingers only on the loose ones till I could barely turn them after each 90° turn.
I rotated the crank at least 8 times of 90° each time, paying no attention to firing order. I just RAN MY FINGERS ACROSS THE PUSH RODS below the rockers, TO SEE IF THEY ROTATED, then tightened them until they just barely could be turned by running a finger over the rod. On tight ones, left them alone, but most all needed tightening at first. To me that is zero lash. You can't miss doing it this way, as you just move through to each side, both intake and exhaust. When I got to my ninth 1/4 th rotation clockwise, I accounted for the oil in the lifters by adding to each rocker nut when 0 lash was reached on all 16,...a 90° turn plus another half of 90 which is 45°. That in total equals half of the 3/4 ths turn of what new engines call for, without oil before you speed wrench the pump to fill all the lifters and galleys after a dry new build type adjustment of 3/4 a turn after all of at least 8 - 90° rotations starting on either number 1 TDC OR NUMBER 6.
THIS was for me the easiest way to do the valves right, and after I finished ....ALL lifter noise Was gone.
Once I get it timed, and tuned in,I can tell, it WILL run as smuuthe as a babys butt. The replacing of the rocker ***** due to no oil grooves , new nuts, push rods, and lubing them as previously stated, has no more rockers shifting off the valve stems any longer. So when you see that, it means you have a bent pushrod or pushrods, and likely need new rocker ***** and nuts if oil grooves are worn off. Excessive worn rocker ***** won't hold their adjustments, so replace them.the company that sold me the 16 push rods set, sold complete ball and nut sets cheaper, so that was a deal.
My guessing the push rods bending must have been due to the cam gears nylon teeth wearing off, and during trying to restart the car, the bending of the rods must have taken place as I heard a few bad sounds during that, not realising until later it must be timing chain related. The bent rods were the reason for the backfiring through the carb, compounded by 2 of the down tubes inside the quadrajet carb falling out of their spots adding to a rich gas situation.
Now I will put new plugs in, and close up the valve covers as in my opinion, I don't think it needs any more valve adjusting.
I will report back as I get it dialed in and road tested after I get that done.
The oil I fed into the galleys after draining out the old to fill the pan I did with the VC's off, using a funnel + pouring slowly.
So ...looks like I was just paranoid, and can soon move to the Ramcharger electrical , problem, or whatever it is and replace its front upper and lower ball joints among other jobs I need to attend to, in the middle of replacing a 460 ford water pump with a Flow - Kooler high performance pump, and doing its timing chain timing set also while its opened up, using a 9 position timing set from Comp - cam. ( this one was a single position Cloyes)
I have about 9 jobs I need to get done as time permits, but none concerned me as much as this one losing it's crank to cam reference.
It was a first time for this situation for me.
My advice : if you know an older stock engine has over 65,000 miles on it , just do the timing chain replacement, and dont let it go . And AGAIN.......while I am thinking about it, My thanks to all who participated in this thread on THIS Chevy Enthusiasts Forum. ..........More later.
I had the kid turning the key for me, and , there was no more beltching gas up through the carb intake, + that was a good sign. I proceeded to use the carb cleaner and use the throttle , and the thing began to run with my help from the throttle. That tells me the carb Air fuel mixture valves needed adjusting, plus timing needed Re-set, and I continued to mess with the distributor , in order to find a spot where it might run on its own.
Finding a spot It actually started to run , without any lifter noise at all, and except for a squeaking belt that needed some belt ease, or something of that sort...the lifters , push rods, and all ran very true + quiet, .....so that was positive, and after it smoked up the manifold more on the drivers side , I was impressed that as far as I could tell from how it ran, I believe I GOT IT RIGHT !
NOW..... Except for setting the timing, choke, carb air jets, ETC., I only need to install new plugs and valve cover gaskets. In a nutshell the mechanical part of MY timing chain replacement looks to be complete.... just needs tweaked a bit, and regarding Oilcanhenrys prediction that He didn't think I bent any valves, I would say he is likely right. PHEW !
My .method for valve adjusting was to begin having the rotor on 6 or 1 close to tdc, using the rotor as an indicator to see where it is at, then adjusting OUT all the up and down end play on the pushrods that were loose after removing the old parts+ installing the new ones, lubing inside the rockers and on the ***** etc as outlined above doing one rocker at a time when replacing each pushrod , ball and nut first prior to adjusting any valves ( just went front to back), + did this on all 16 (saving the old parts to make a wind chime).(I also just wiped off the rockers with paper towels before lubeing and putting in the new parts.)
I rotated the crank clockwise 90 degrees from then on, tightening only the loose push rods from front to back on each side. After up and down movement of push rods was gone, I then went to turning the rods with my fingers only on the loose ones till I could barely turn them after each 90° turn.
I rotated the crank at least 8 times of 90° each time, paying no attention to firing order. I just RAN MY FINGERS ACROSS THE PUSH RODS below the rockers, TO SEE IF THEY ROTATED, then tightened them until they just barely could be turned by running a finger over the rod. On tight ones, left them alone, but most all needed tightening at first. To me that is zero lash. You can't miss doing it this way, as you just move through to each side, both intake and exhaust. When I got to my ninth 1/4 th rotation clockwise, I accounted for the oil in the lifters by adding to each rocker nut when 0 lash was reached on all 16,...a 90° turn plus another half of 90 which is 45°. That in total equals half of the 3/4 ths turn of what new engines call for, without oil before you speed wrench the pump to fill all the lifters and galleys after a dry new build type adjustment of 3/4 a turn after all of at least 8 - 90° rotations starting on either number 1 TDC OR NUMBER 6.
THIS was for me the easiest way to do the valves right, and after I finished ....ALL lifter noise Was gone.
Once I get it timed, and tuned in,I can tell, it WILL run as smuuthe as a babys butt. The replacing of the rocker ***** due to no oil grooves , new nuts, push rods, and lubing them as previously stated, has no more rockers shifting off the valve stems any longer. So when you see that, it means you have a bent pushrod or pushrods, and likely need new rocker ***** and nuts if oil grooves are worn off. Excessive worn rocker ***** won't hold their adjustments, so replace them.the company that sold me the 16 push rods set, sold complete ball and nut sets cheaper, so that was a deal.
My guessing the push rods bending must have been due to the cam gears nylon teeth wearing off, and during trying to restart the car, the bending of the rods must have taken place as I heard a few bad sounds during that, not realising until later it must be timing chain related. The bent rods were the reason for the backfiring through the carb, compounded by 2 of the down tubes inside the quadrajet carb falling out of their spots adding to a rich gas situation.
Now I will put new plugs in, and close up the valve covers as in my opinion, I don't think it needs any more valve adjusting.
I will report back as I get it dialed in and road tested after I get that done.
The oil I fed into the galleys after draining out the old to fill the pan I did with the VC's off, using a funnel + pouring slowly.
So ...looks like I was just paranoid, and can soon move to the Ramcharger electrical , problem, or whatever it is and replace its front upper and lower ball joints among other jobs I need to attend to, in the middle of replacing a 460 ford water pump with a Flow - Kooler high performance pump, and doing its timing chain timing set also while its opened up, using a 9 position timing set from Comp - cam. ( this one was a single position Cloyes)
I have about 9 jobs I need to get done as time permits, but none concerned me as much as this one losing it's crank to cam reference.
It was a first time for this situation for me.
My advice : if you know an older stock engine has over 65,000 miles on it , just do the timing chain replacement, and dont let it go . And AGAIN.......while I am thinking about it, My thanks to all who participated in this thread on THIS Chevy Enthusiasts Forum. ..........More later.
Last edited by Jay Dee; December 19th, 2021 at 10:31 PM.
December 20th, 2021, 8:22 AM
#64
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Henry,....I forgot to mention, I found your story about split shifting that two speed axle fascinating. I have to admit I don't completely understand it all, but then again , I never have driven a big rig Truck OTR Diesel either. But things move on with technology. It's pretty cool how some folks like you adapt things using common sense and Reminds me of the old days when they had changeover books where compatible parts listings ,not only saved money, but improved projects in custom builds to mix parts to adapt stuff to fit different brand drive train parts and such as running Chevy drive trains in Fords, or vice versey.
But today the vehicles are becoming much more difficult to work on, requiring specialized education. But we await the newest inventions not yet devised from Alien technologies, and it seems to me that electric won't likely be the next phase, but for the environmental aspect, it seems , Hydrogen vehicles to me seem to make more sense. Americans are highly creative inventors, only thing is, those who run this present boat anchor mentality of a country, that keep holding us back , are just plain stupid, as history proves it yet today. I'm still eagerly awaiting the anti-gravity devices outlined in popular mechanics they told us were coming among other things we may not live to see previously predicted.
But today the vehicles are becoming much more difficult to work on, requiring specialized education. But we await the newest inventions not yet devised from Alien technologies, and it seems to me that electric won't likely be the next phase, but for the environmental aspect, it seems , Hydrogen vehicles to me seem to make more sense. Americans are highly creative inventors, only thing is, those who run this present boat anchor mentality of a country, that keep holding us back , are just plain stupid, as history proves it yet today. I'm still eagerly awaiting the anti-gravity devices outlined in popular mechanics they told us were coming among other things we may not live to see previously predicted.
December 21st, 2021, 4:09 AM
#65
CF Monarch
Hi Jay Dee!
I think that you really have this motor handled well, by all you have posted. Wish you lived near me. I'd have that carb jetting adjusted down correctly. I have worked on so many carbs it ain't t even funny. I even recently overhauled the carb on my Husqvarna 125 B leaf blower, as well as my two-stroke dirt-bikes when I was racing them back when I was a younger man.
As for your ignition timing I don't know if you have the timing light, but lots of vehicles used to come with a stamped mark that was supposed to be for TDC. We'd just turn the advance up until the engine knocked on the gasoline we were using then backed it off until the knock was gone. Back then the gasoline was leaded, but I'm glad we are unleaded now. You can run spark plugs for 100,000 miles since there is no lead to fowl them up. I use NKG's platinum's myself. Back then you'd be lucky to make 25,000 miles on a set of spark plugs. They used to have these sandblasting machines to clean them up even..
As for the 5 speed tranny with a two-speed rear axle, those were only on medium duty trucks like my father's Chevy C-60 as far as I know. Back in the past, lots of trucks had a main transmission, and a secondary one, so you had twin sticks to shift, all non-synchronized. They were real popular with logging truck drivers, but those guys drive like mad as they are half crazy.
These days all the major carriers like Swift, Walmart, ect. are using "Auto-Shift" transmissions. They work like an automatic transmission, but use a servo-mechanism.to shift gears. I hate them as they don't get up too speed fast enough for me, when getting on the freeways..And if a new truck driver takes his road test in an auto-shift, they cannot drive a standard shift semi-truck, as there is a big red "A" on his/her CDL.license.The carriers like them as they don't have to train drivers to shift gears any more.
A semi-truck uses an non-synchronized transmission, 9 to 21 speeds, so new drivers need to start out double clutching, but after you get good, you can shift up or down without the clutch at all. We call it " Floating the Gears", But I would not recommend doing that with a syncromesh transmission in a car or pickup, as it's not good for the synchronizers.
I had a clutch cable break years ago on my car, so it was nice to be able to drive it home without the clutch. but at a stop- light, I'd have to.start it up in gear until I got home to fix it Had the same thing happen on a Semi-truck, but I got it back to the shop but had to start in gear at a red light too..
You can try it if you want, as it can be done, but don't do it often or you'll damage your syncho's., Anyhow, it sounds like you'll have that 350 Chevy up and running soon.Yeah, I never liked all the vacuum hoses on the older cars and pickups, but that's just how thing were back then. times do change, and they always will. Sure love my 24 year old Chevy K-1500 4WD.
I think that you really have this motor handled well, by all you have posted. Wish you lived near me. I'd have that carb jetting adjusted down correctly. I have worked on so many carbs it ain't t even funny. I even recently overhauled the carb on my Husqvarna 125 B leaf blower, as well as my two-stroke dirt-bikes when I was racing them back when I was a younger man.
As for your ignition timing I don't know if you have the timing light, but lots of vehicles used to come with a stamped mark that was supposed to be for TDC. We'd just turn the advance up until the engine knocked on the gasoline we were using then backed it off until the knock was gone. Back then the gasoline was leaded, but I'm glad we are unleaded now. You can run spark plugs for 100,000 miles since there is no lead to fowl them up. I use NKG's platinum's myself. Back then you'd be lucky to make 25,000 miles on a set of spark plugs. They used to have these sandblasting machines to clean them up even..
As for the 5 speed tranny with a two-speed rear axle, those were only on medium duty trucks like my father's Chevy C-60 as far as I know. Back in the past, lots of trucks had a main transmission, and a secondary one, so you had twin sticks to shift, all non-synchronized. They were real popular with logging truck drivers, but those guys drive like mad as they are half crazy.
These days all the major carriers like Swift, Walmart, ect. are using "Auto-Shift" transmissions. They work like an automatic transmission, but use a servo-mechanism.to shift gears. I hate them as they don't get up too speed fast enough for me, when getting on the freeways..And if a new truck driver takes his road test in an auto-shift, they cannot drive a standard shift semi-truck, as there is a big red "A" on his/her CDL.license.The carriers like them as they don't have to train drivers to shift gears any more.
A semi-truck uses an non-synchronized transmission, 9 to 21 speeds, so new drivers need to start out double clutching, but after you get good, you can shift up or down without the clutch at all. We call it " Floating the Gears", But I would not recommend doing that with a syncromesh transmission in a car or pickup, as it's not good for the synchronizers.
I had a clutch cable break years ago on my car, so it was nice to be able to drive it home without the clutch. but at a stop- light, I'd have to.start it up in gear until I got home to fix it Had the same thing happen on a Semi-truck, but I got it back to the shop but had to start in gear at a red light too..
You can try it if you want, as it can be done, but don't do it often or you'll damage your syncho's., Anyhow, it sounds like you'll have that 350 Chevy up and running soon.Yeah, I never liked all the vacuum hoses on the older cars and pickups, but that's just how thing were back then. times do change, and they always will. Sure love my 24 year old Chevy K-1500 4WD.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; December 21st, 2021 at 4:11 AM.
December 21st, 2021, 7:18 AM
#66
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Henry, Again i think you're right, looks like im' in like Flynn.
I didn't look at the base of the distributor, for any mark, nor did I mark it, as I should have, but felt it would need re-timed anyway, and yes I have several timing lights, but not any you can adjust at the back. Not sure what that types called, but I did get the carb close with parts I had, as it is in high altitude, and I wrote the marks down when I opened it up, and set it somewhere. I recall the secondaries were .070, and the fat rods were not numbered, just had letters on them. Primaries should have been replaced, but can go back later on.
The carb really should have been replaced, but years ago a drunk who ran a carb repair stole the kids new carb, then replaced it with an old one, and the kid knew it wasn't the same carb, but ripped him off. I had to have it open 7 times to pass emissions, but did eventually.
if I had a new distributor, and carb, I feel it would run excellent now. But no matter what the car throws at me I keep it running somehow.
went to get new valve cover cork gaskets yesterday, but they had to order them, so today they will be in, and plan to buy some Gasgacinch to glue them in. This vehicle has a knock sensor, but think it might be damaged, it also has a temp sensor on the housing of the thermostat housing that might need replaced, but I did put a 180 thermostat in it, as I find in suburbans , they run better than a 190. It likes colder weather for some reason.
The plugs were fouled with all that gas, so I got a set today just because they hadn't been replaced in maybe 8 years, but didnt look bad, just gunked up. I will check the gaps to set at .045, as I think that is about right. What do you think?
getting those covers on are tight with all the intake crap, + the EGR So close.
When you spoke of throwing away the smog pump on that one vehicle, isn't that to keep acids from forming in the engine by circulating air through it ?
On the truck shifting, I know what you mean on getting the RPMS up especially when climbing. When I rebuilt that ford C6, I put in a shift kit , as in the valve body there is a big fat piston, and I should have just used the old one , but replaced it with one that had O rings on it, and it was a little tight, making it shift slower to second, but in climbing, it shifted too soon, so I use the automatic column shifter to shift it manually instead in climbing for the same reason,on this 85 Ford 460, and I can run it up on the RPM'S easier, and THEN SHIFT IT MANUALLY, it works for me just fine. I kept the old parts, but that's another story.
Today I'll get the gasket set, and close the covers, + think I have one tiny vacuume hose to replace, then on to see if I can time it. Its difficult to see the timing marks, but what is that tube on the timing cover for ? I RE- painted the cover with high heat paint and baked it on, as I think I mentioned that, and noticed that verticle tube near the timing marks.
I changed the kids transmission fluid , but it really should be done again in the spring, and his engine water had a lot of rust, and needs a good cleaning. He bought this thing out of a field where it had been sitting,and would run for awhile then shut down suddenly. He has never picked a good car nor taken my advice....just buys pieces of crap. Early on.... I told him the tank needed dropped, to see if it needed cleaning, and I found it had about 6 to 8 double handfulls of sand in the tank. Took me a couple days to get it all out because somebody also put sugar in it, and it stuck everywhere, but happened before he ever bought it ( also paid too much for it). I added an electric fuel pump too and a huge red gas filter, and it's ok now, but basically, to me... it's just a beater.
It's had most everything replaced on it you can replace, but it keeps running.
Glad it didn't need more stuff, but will look for the mark for timing, and let you know when its again driveable. It needs a bath of engine cleaner and powerwashed underneath at the car wash first after it is timed. It surges a little, but always has since that carb guy swapped his carb on him. Stay tuned.
I didn't look at the base of the distributor, for any mark, nor did I mark it, as I should have, but felt it would need re-timed anyway, and yes I have several timing lights, but not any you can adjust at the back. Not sure what that types called, but I did get the carb close with parts I had, as it is in high altitude, and I wrote the marks down when I opened it up, and set it somewhere. I recall the secondaries were .070, and the fat rods were not numbered, just had letters on them. Primaries should have been replaced, but can go back later on.
The carb really should have been replaced, but years ago a drunk who ran a carb repair stole the kids new carb, then replaced it with an old one, and the kid knew it wasn't the same carb, but ripped him off. I had to have it open 7 times to pass emissions, but did eventually.
if I had a new distributor, and carb, I feel it would run excellent now. But no matter what the car throws at me I keep it running somehow.
went to get new valve cover cork gaskets yesterday, but they had to order them, so today they will be in, and plan to buy some Gasgacinch to glue them in. This vehicle has a knock sensor, but think it might be damaged, it also has a temp sensor on the housing of the thermostat housing that might need replaced, but I did put a 180 thermostat in it, as I find in suburbans , they run better than a 190. It likes colder weather for some reason.
The plugs were fouled with all that gas, so I got a set today just because they hadn't been replaced in maybe 8 years, but didnt look bad, just gunked up. I will check the gaps to set at .045, as I think that is about right. What do you think?
getting those covers on are tight with all the intake crap, + the EGR So close.
When you spoke of throwing away the smog pump on that one vehicle, isn't that to keep acids from forming in the engine by circulating air through it ?
On the truck shifting, I know what you mean on getting the RPMS up especially when climbing. When I rebuilt that ford C6, I put in a shift kit , as in the valve body there is a big fat piston, and I should have just used the old one , but replaced it with one that had O rings on it, and it was a little tight, making it shift slower to second, but in climbing, it shifted too soon, so I use the automatic column shifter to shift it manually instead in climbing for the same reason,on this 85 Ford 460, and I can run it up on the RPM'S easier, and THEN SHIFT IT MANUALLY, it works for me just fine. I kept the old parts, but that's another story.
Today I'll get the gasket set, and close the covers, + think I have one tiny vacuume hose to replace, then on to see if I can time it. Its difficult to see the timing marks, but what is that tube on the timing cover for ? I RE- painted the cover with high heat paint and baked it on, as I think I mentioned that, and noticed that verticle tube near the timing marks.
I changed the kids transmission fluid , but it really should be done again in the spring, and his engine water had a lot of rust, and needs a good cleaning. He bought this thing out of a field where it had been sitting,and would run for awhile then shut down suddenly. He has never picked a good car nor taken my advice....just buys pieces of crap. Early on.... I told him the tank needed dropped, to see if it needed cleaning, and I found it had about 6 to 8 double handfulls of sand in the tank. Took me a couple days to get it all out because somebody also put sugar in it, and it stuck everywhere, but happened before he ever bought it ( also paid too much for it). I added an electric fuel pump too and a huge red gas filter, and it's ok now, but basically, to me... it's just a beater.
It's had most everything replaced on it you can replace, but it keeps running.
Glad it didn't need more stuff, but will look for the mark for timing, and let you know when its again driveable. It needs a bath of engine cleaner and powerwashed underneath at the car wash first after it is timed. It surges a little, but always has since that carb guy swapped his carb on him. Stay tuned.
December 22nd, 2021, 10:52 AM
#67
CF Monarch
That just cold-blooed when people put some crap down a gas tank. I have locks on both of my caps, along with wheel locks.Yeap there are still lots of rip-off mechanics out there but the trick is they usually operate alone., You you think you have the carb jetted close enough? As for the timing mark some engines had them but some didn't.Oh and I messed up on my spark plugs in my K-1500. They are iridium.not platinum. Once mu Malibu needs plugs, NKG Iridium's are going in.but they are still very clean.
December 22nd, 2021, 2:03 PM
#68
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Henry, I wanted to use gasgacinch, an edelbrock product for the cover gaskets, but either nobody stocked it now or it went up from 6-8.00 for 4oz, to 14.00. Thats crazy, as the gaskets set only cost me 11.
i am heading out to get some other product, and see what I can get done. More later....
i am heading out to get some other product, and see what I can get done. More later....
December 23rd, 2021, 12:26 AM
#69
CF Monarch
Henry, I wanted to use gasgacinch, an edelbrock product for the cover gaskets, but either nobody stocked it now or it went up from 6-8.00 for 4oz, to 14.00. Thats crazy, as the gaskets set only cost me 11.
i am heading out to get some other product, and see what I can get done. More later....
i am heading out to get some other product, and see what I can get done. More later....
December 23rd, 2021, 12:37 AM
#70
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Got the cover gaskets on, but couldn't get the left VC on, so I quit for the day , got too dark. So many brackets, you gotta get it just right to go in. Loosened the compressor even, but it won't go forward enough to get the front VC bolts through. Sometimes I have to walk away from a job and start over the next day. I'll get it tomorrow though. Then do the right side. Again I ask....Anybody know what the tiny vertical tube is for on the timing cover ? Felt like a snail on this today.