Asking for advice about an 86 silverado suburban timing chain slip.
January 28th, 2022, 3:07 PM
#81
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for responding, but, if YOU want to pay for advice, have at it. Forums are for people helping other people, and I know wherein the general problems solution lies. Good luck in solving YOUR problem, IF you really have one, but this would be a good way to troll for customers TO PAY for information already freely available. Those sites are for ignorant lazy people who think they will get help, but there is nothing they will tell you, you can't find out yourself if you are literate, only difference is they just keep tapping your wallet and is counter productive to a forums purpose,but I liken similar to blackmailing. I ask the forum moderator to delete your suggestion,as it seems like just a come on advertisement , but Best wishes anyway.
January 28th, 2022, 4:31 PM
#82
CF Monarch
I got hit with Covid-19. That's why I have not been on Chevrolet Forum for a while. What is wrong with your carburetor?
Last edited by oilcanhenry; January 28th, 2022 at 4:34 PM.
January 29th, 2022, 3:50 PM
#83
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
HENRY ! Hello bro, so sorry to hear you were sick.....lets hope you are beginning to feel better. What gets me about the covid shots, is almost half of those who got them still got sick.....but in my life they have NEVER found any shot that could destroy or work against ANY virus. So I send you good thoughts every day that you will keep on keepin on, and if anyone else has it in their heart to do the same, I ask unselfishly in your behalf they all think good thoughts for you , not once, but for at least a minute every day, . There is power in even 2 people doing this for others....it definitely works.
Now to the carb....the carb seems ok now after I took it apart and cleanèd it after the CONTINUAL backfiring through it from having BENT push RODS. I believe the grey ECM connected switch might not be working, or possibly the temp control switch that works with it on the thermostat housing, but the car runs like a bat out of hell down the road with no hesitation, but after I drive like 10 miles testing it, it doesn't want to idle at lights for long as it slowly idles to a stall. BUT I HAVEN'T STILL GOTTEN THE TIMING SET RIGHT,BUT BELIEVE ITS BECAUSE OF A VACUUM LEAK. I have noticed the brake is sometimes hard to push at lights TO STOP, and so I think the brake vacuum booster is my problem. Thats just a guess-timation, as there is supposed to be an oxygen sensor , but in looking , I can't locate one.....at least not yet. I read that stalling is 98% because of a distributor with cracked wires inside, and or a bad pickup coil inside, but the kids suburban DOES HAVE THOSE WIRE PROBLEMS in his dizzy.
I THOUGHT I might take off the cap and put liquid rubber on those wires just to see, but I have replaced more vacuum lines I found were badly needing replaced. It shows no oil pressure on the guage , but I think its the sender, but hope it isn't the pump. But I think when the snow clears up, I will start with the booster and go from there as almost everything on this old piece of crap needs replaced as it's all original. There's some parts suburbans locally, but would rather buy new stuff. I found a new complete remanufactured carb for 299., but I still need to open it up because It is like 7000' elevation here and I don't think those carbs stock will pass emissions. Do you know anything about if they need rods and jets for high altitude ? I rebuilt this one according to the manual for that elevation and it passed, but time for a new one as ive put helicoils in it etc, and its not the gas pressure because It has an electric fuel pump backing up the stock pump.
ANY IDEAS HENRY ?
where I have the dizzy set it isnt getting the mileage it was when more advanced, but they claim to set it at 0°, not 8° at initial timing.
Now to the carb....the carb seems ok now after I took it apart and cleanèd it after the CONTINUAL backfiring through it from having BENT push RODS. I believe the grey ECM connected switch might not be working, or possibly the temp control switch that works with it on the thermostat housing, but the car runs like a bat out of hell down the road with no hesitation, but after I drive like 10 miles testing it, it doesn't want to idle at lights for long as it slowly idles to a stall. BUT I HAVEN'T STILL GOTTEN THE TIMING SET RIGHT,BUT BELIEVE ITS BECAUSE OF A VACUUM LEAK. I have noticed the brake is sometimes hard to push at lights TO STOP, and so I think the brake vacuum booster is my problem. Thats just a guess-timation, as there is supposed to be an oxygen sensor , but in looking , I can't locate one.....at least not yet. I read that stalling is 98% because of a distributor with cracked wires inside, and or a bad pickup coil inside, but the kids suburban DOES HAVE THOSE WIRE PROBLEMS in his dizzy.
I THOUGHT I might take off the cap and put liquid rubber on those wires just to see, but I have replaced more vacuum lines I found were badly needing replaced. It shows no oil pressure on the guage , but I think its the sender, but hope it isn't the pump. But I think when the snow clears up, I will start with the booster and go from there as almost everything on this old piece of crap needs replaced as it's all original. There's some parts suburbans locally, but would rather buy new stuff. I found a new complete remanufactured carb for 299., but I still need to open it up because It is like 7000' elevation here and I don't think those carbs stock will pass emissions. Do you know anything about if they need rods and jets for high altitude ? I rebuilt this one according to the manual for that elevation and it passed, but time for a new one as ive put helicoils in it etc, and its not the gas pressure because It has an electric fuel pump backing up the stock pump.
ANY IDEAS HENRY ?
where I have the dizzy set it isnt getting the mileage it was when more advanced, but they claim to set it at 0°, not 8° at initial timing.
February 1st, 2022, 9:37 PM
#84
CF Monarch
HENRY ! Hello bro, so sorry to hear you were sick.....lets hope you are beginning to feel better. What gets me about the covid shots, is almost half of those who got them still got sick.....but in my life they have NEVER found any shot that could destroy or work against ANY virus. So I send you good thoughts every day that you will keep on keepin on, and if anyone else has it in their heart to do the same, I ask unselfishly in your behalf they all think good thoughts for you , not once, but for at least a minute every day, . There is power in even 2 people doing this for others....it definitely works.
Now to the carb....the carb seems ok now after I took it apart and cleanèd it after the CONTINUAL backfiring through it from having BENT push RODS. I believe the grey ECM connected switch might not be working, or possibly the temp control switch that works with it on the thermostat housing, but the car runs like a bat out of hell down the road with no hesitation, but after I drive like 10 miles testing it, it doesn't want to idle at lights for long as it slowly idles to a stall. BUT I HAVEN'T STILL GOTTEN THE TIMING SET RIGHT,BUT BELIEVE ITS BECAUSE OF A VACUUM LEAK. I have noticed the brake is sometimes hard to push at lights TO STOP, and so I think the brake vacuum booster is my problem. Thats just a guess-timation, as there is supposed to be an oxygen sensor , but in looking , I can't locate one.....at least not yet. I read that stalling is 98% because of a distributor with cracked wires inside, and or a bad pickup coil inside, but the kids suburban DOES HAVE THOSE WIRE PROBLEMS in his dizzy.
I THOUGHT I might take off the cap and put liquid rubber on those wires just to see, but I have replaced more vacuum lines I found were badly needing replaced. It shows no oil pressure on the guage , but I think its the sender, but hope it isn't the pump. But I think when the snow clears up, I will start with the booster and go from there as almost everything on this old piece of crap needs replaced as it's all original. There's some parts suburbans locally, but would rather buy new stuff. I found a new complete remanufactured carb for 299., but I still need to open it up because It is like 7000' elevation here and I don't think those carbs stock will pass emissions. Do you know anything about if they need rods and jets for high altitude ? I rebuilt this one according to the manual for that elevation and it passed, but time for a new one as ive put helicoils in it etc, and its not the gas pressure because It has an electric fuel pump backing up the stock pump.
ANY IDEAS HENRY ?
where I have the dizzy set it isnt getting the mileage it was when more advanced, but they claim to set it at 0°, not 8° at initial timing.
Now to the carb....the carb seems ok now after I took it apart and cleanèd it after the CONTINUAL backfiring through it from having BENT push RODS. I believe the grey ECM connected switch might not be working, or possibly the temp control switch that works with it on the thermostat housing, but the car runs like a bat out of hell down the road with no hesitation, but after I drive like 10 miles testing it, it doesn't want to idle at lights for long as it slowly idles to a stall. BUT I HAVEN'T STILL GOTTEN THE TIMING SET RIGHT,BUT BELIEVE ITS BECAUSE OF A VACUUM LEAK. I have noticed the brake is sometimes hard to push at lights TO STOP, and so I think the brake vacuum booster is my problem. Thats just a guess-timation, as there is supposed to be an oxygen sensor , but in looking , I can't locate one.....at least not yet. I read that stalling is 98% because of a distributor with cracked wires inside, and or a bad pickup coil inside, but the kids suburban DOES HAVE THOSE WIRE PROBLEMS in his dizzy.
I THOUGHT I might take off the cap and put liquid rubber on those wires just to see, but I have replaced more vacuum lines I found were badly needing replaced. It shows no oil pressure on the guage , but I think its the sender, but hope it isn't the pump. But I think when the snow clears up, I will start with the booster and go from there as almost everything on this old piece of crap needs replaced as it's all original. There's some parts suburbans locally, but would rather buy new stuff. I found a new complete remanufactured carb for 299., but I still need to open it up because It is like 7000' elevation here and I don't think those carbs stock will pass emissions. Do you know anything about if they need rods and jets for high altitude ? I rebuilt this one according to the manual for that elevation and it passed, but time for a new one as ive put helicoils in it etc, and its not the gas pressure because It has an electric fuel pump backing up the stock pump.
ANY IDEAS HENRY ?
where I have the dizzy set it isnt getting the mileage it was when more advanced, but they claim to set it at 0°, not 8° at initial timing.
Yeah the push rods backfiring into the carb wouldn't help at all. Yeah, at 7000 ft. elevation your carb needs to be jetted for that. I once climbed the Rocky Mountains with a sea level jetting carb and it ran way too rich, almost conking out, running very rich.
The nice thing about TBI and Fuel injected motors is they compensate for that. There were some carburetors that supposedly would compensate for high altitude conditions, but I dont know if they worked well. if 8 degrees advance works best, I'd keep it there, barring a smog test. Used to be this stupid device that would slow down the carb vacuum advance from the carb to the vaccum advance dizzy unit. We'd run it directly to the distributor, until we had to smog our vehicles. Got better power and MPG that way.
February 3rd, 2022, 11:14 PM
#85
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
That's ok Henry, thanks for the info, . My problem is now it runs great, and idles fine till you drive it almost 10 miles, then it won't hold the idle any longer. It snowed about a foot so I am waiting for things to clear up and melt. I will keep you apprised as I find the solution. Evidently this version has no oxygen sensor, only the carb electric solenoid , and water temp switch, so it's just the albatross of Suburbans, but I feel fortunate I have done as well as I have so far. It has lots of other things that need addressed, but need to get it stable first as once warmed up , its one foot on the gas and one on the brake, so I avoid parking in tight spots till then as it wants to stall and brake is hard till it idles right or drives, but feel it still might need a booster too, but need to test it more first. I really would like to take a stab at rebuilding a booster, but the parts are nearly as much as a rebuilt. Never realised some boosters for some vehicles just as cores run big bucks . More later.
Last edited by Jay Dee; February 3rd, 2022 at 11:16 PM.
February 6th, 2022, 7:03 PM
#86
CF Monarch
That's ok Henry, thanks for the info, . My problem is now it runs great, and idles fine till you drive it almost 10 miles, then it won't hold the idle any longer. It snowed about a foot so I am waiting for things to clear up and melt. I will keep you apprised as I find the solution. Evidently this version has no oxygen sensor, only the carb electric solenoid , and water temp switch, so it's just the albatross of Suburbans, but I feel fortunate I have done as well as I have so far. It has lots of other things that need addressed, but need to get it stable first as once warmed up , its one foot on the gas and one on the brake, so I avoid parking in tight spots till then as it wants to stall and brake is hard till it idles right or drives, but feel it still might need a booster too, but need to test it more first. I really would like to take a stab at rebuilding a booster, but the parts are nearly as much as a rebuilt. Never realised some boosters for some vehicles just as cores run big bucks . More later.
leaf-blower. I put a brand new carburetor on it, but after 20 minutes to 30 minutes it just stops like it's flooding out, but I have adjusted the carb too many times and all the fuel lines and filter are brand new. I figure it's got to be the ignition coil pickup unit
getting hot, since if I let it set it down to cool for a time, if fires back up again.The gap is correct so the unit must be defective.
.
February 6th, 2022, 9:13 PM
#87
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
I know that on a suburban it has a temp sensor in the thermostat housing. The way they work is when cold the resistance is high, as it heats up the radiator water, the resistance drops and leans out the carb , but if not working right it stays rich and then has too rich a gas mixture when hot , like leaving on the choke, so it won't idle. That may be my problem. It could also be a bad pickup coil in the dizzy, or the booster, but, in the case of your weed blower, I couldn't say for sure without studying IT'S manual. I have tests to run, but have chosen to wait till it clears up this week. The temp sensor on this one has one wire, the replacements have 2. Plugs look different, so, I either must change the plug and switch, or ground one wire, but am not sure, just my gut feeling.
It helps to kick these ideas around a bit here first, but , I try to be sure most times rather than just replacing everything it could be. Just trying to save the kid money, but it sure runs good now till it's hot. I think I need to test the carb solenoid too , as it might not be working full time.....thanks for your insight henry, and stay well.
It helps to kick these ideas around a bit here first, but , I try to be sure most times rather than just replacing everything it could be. Just trying to save the kid money, but it sure runs good now till it's hot. I think I need to test the carb solenoid too , as it might not be working full time.....thanks for your insight henry, and stay well.
February 8th, 2022, 5:47 AM
#88
CF Monarch
Thanks Jay Dee! Hopefully I've developed some immunity to Covid-19 and am increasing my vitamin D levels, along with zinc.
February 8th, 2022, 8:35 PM
#89
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Henry....I take 2 Tbs of MSM every morning, and so far no Hunan yet. Been exposed several times, but no cigar. I BUY 1 LB CONTAINERS OF MSM THROUGH RICH INDUSTRIES IN WASHINGTON STATE. I originally began using it to help take away back pain for after working on cars. Makes a huge difference. Its best taken with vitamin C, and not expensive if you buy it direct. Without it I feel a lot of difference. Not sure if it does anything to prevent Covid, but I strangely have not gotten sick yet. So go figure, but if you ache in the mornings from working on cars, you might want to try some, and if you do, I can give advice on how to take it because it is bitter , it is something I certainly can't do without.
The strange thing about this suburban( said this before several times) is it runs great till it warms up, and then once its shut off, then it refuses to idle after. Just took it out on another test run, and it ran great, then stopped to buy some stuff and had to put one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running. I have to run the boy to his doctor at the hospital 10 miles away tomorrow, so I think getting there will be ok, it's the ride back I am worried about. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing is a one wire type, I cannot find one of the same type, under the vehicle listing of parts, so maybe they used one from a 305.
Not sure if that is the PROBLEM, BUT the only replacements are for 2 wire types. In reading threads about it, I thought the same as another guy that if you replaced it ,and the connector, I would assume one wire would be for grounding and the other for the sensor. Nobody has talked about it on any forum as far as how to convert a one wire to a 2, nor Chevy, either. I WILL figure this out. Nobody here knows either, as these 86 & 87 albatross suburban have weird configurations during the transition to fuel injection and computer test plugs which this sob doesn't have. Never did. Never had so much trouble with any Chevy before. Might not be the booster.
The strange thing about this suburban( said this before several times) is it runs great till it warms up, and then once its shut off, then it refuses to idle after. Just took it out on another test run, and it ran great, then stopped to buy some stuff and had to put one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running. I have to run the boy to his doctor at the hospital 10 miles away tomorrow, so I think getting there will be ok, it's the ride back I am worried about. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing is a one wire type, I cannot find one of the same type, under the vehicle listing of parts, so maybe they used one from a 305.
Not sure if that is the PROBLEM, BUT the only replacements are for 2 wire types. In reading threads about it, I thought the same as another guy that if you replaced it ,and the connector, I would assume one wire would be for grounding and the other for the sensor. Nobody has talked about it on any forum as far as how to convert a one wire to a 2, nor Chevy, either. I WILL figure this out. Nobody here knows either, as these 86 & 87 albatross suburban have weird configurations during the transition to fuel injection and computer test plugs which this sob doesn't have. Never did. Never had so much trouble with any Chevy before. Might not be the booster.
February 11th, 2022, 7:15 PM
#90
CF Monarch
Henry....I take 2 Tbs of MSM every morning, and so far no Hunan yet. Been exposed several times, but no cigar. I BUY 1 LB CONTAINERS OF MSM THROUGH RICH INDUSTRIES IN WASHINGTON STATE. I originally began using it to help take away back pain for after working on cars. Makes a huge difference. Its best taken with vitamin C, and not expensive if you buy it direct. Without it I feel a lot of difference. Not sure if it does anything to prevent Covid, but I strangely have not gotten sick yet. So go figure, but if you ache in the mornings from working on cars, you might want to try some, and if you do, I can give advice on how to take it because it is bitter , it is something I certainly can't do without.
The strange thing about this suburban( said this before several times) is it runs great till it warms up, and then once its shut off, then it refuses to idle after. Just took it out on another test run, and it ran great, then stopped to buy some stuff and had to put one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running. I have to run the boy to his doctor at the hospital 10 miles away tomorrow, so I think getting there will be ok, it's the ride back I am worried about. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing is a one wire type, I cannot find one of the same type, under the vehicle listing of parts, so maybe they used one from a 305.
Not sure if that is the PROBLEM, BUT the only replacements are for 2 wire types. In reading threads about it, I thought the same as another guy that if you replaced it ,and the connector, I would assume one wire would be for grounding and the other for the sensor. Nobody has talked about it on any forum as far as how to convert a one wire to a 2, nor Chevy, either. I WILL figure this out. Nobody here knows either, as these 86 & 87 albatross suburban have weird configurations during the transition to fuel injection and computer test plugs which this sob doesn't have. Never did. Never had so much trouble with any Chevy before. Might not be the booster.
The strange thing about this suburban( said this before several times) is it runs great till it warms up, and then once its shut off, then it refuses to idle after. Just took it out on another test run, and it ran great, then stopped to buy some stuff and had to put one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running. I have to run the boy to his doctor at the hospital 10 miles away tomorrow, so I think getting there will be ok, it's the ride back I am worried about. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing is a one wire type, I cannot find one of the same type, under the vehicle listing of parts, so maybe they used one from a 305.
Not sure if that is the PROBLEM, BUT the only replacements are for 2 wire types. In reading threads about it, I thought the same as another guy that if you replaced it ,and the connector, I would assume one wire would be for grounding and the other for the sensor. Nobody has talked about it on any forum as far as how to convert a one wire to a 2, nor Chevy, either. I WILL figure this out. Nobody here knows either, as these 86 & 87 albatross suburban have weird configurations during the transition to fuel injection and computer test plugs which this sob doesn't have. Never did. Never had so much trouble with any Chevy before. Might not be the booster.