Battery Dies quick

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October 23rd, 2011, 10:56 PM

#11

73shark

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Also if it's a 2007, have the dealer check for the battery rundown software upgrade.

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October 25th, 2011, 7:46 PM

#12

badOHtenTAHOE

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i also have this problem where it says battery voltage low start vehicle after as little as two minutes. i noticed the battery the truck came from the factory with is only 610 cca. i hooked up the snap on D-TAC machine and it tested battery starting and charging system and everything checked out ok. im going to take it to the dealer btw its a 2010 not an 07

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October 26th, 2011, 11:10 AM

#13

Chevrolet Customer Service

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Let us know what goes on when you visit the dealership and what the find the issue to be.
Breanne
Chevrolet Customer Service

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October 26th, 2011, 12:20 PM

#14

SabrToothSqrl

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batteries

the OEM battery is crap, it's can't power my watch.

Combine that with the idiotic idea of 90% of the tahoe 'running' while the KEY IS NOT EVEN IN THE LOCK, and you get this result. (try probing some wires while the key is out... 95% of them are 12v running!)

My solution: Optima Yellow Top.

I can wash my car, radio (sat nav) blasting for 2-3 hours strait, starts right up, every time. Has not missed a beat yet.

OEM battery: wouldn't start at the boat ramp after sitting over night. truck had less than 5,000 miles on it (I was pissed).
Wouldn't start after listening to radio while washing it.
Wouldn't start after prolonged headlight use (setting up a tent in the dark).

Optima; just works.

Ever hear your Sat Nav scanning the GPS disc while the car is OFF? what genius thought that was more important than the ability to START your car?

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October 26th, 2011, 12:51 PM

#15

slw210

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An Optima Yellow Top battery is a Deep Cycle designed to run radios and accessories for extended periods of time, of course it is better than the Stock Starting Battery for running accessories. If you run a lot of accessories you need a second battery (Deep Cycle) or Combo Start/Deep Cycle (sometimes called a Marine Battery).

There are formulae for determining time/current draw etc. etc. and specific batteries for specific purposes.

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October 26th, 2011, 1:09 PM

#16

SabrToothSqrl

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Correct

I think the issue here is that the GMT900 platform runs or leaves a lot of 'accessories' running / hot. and that requires a different battery if that's the direction GM wishes to take.

Many users are not voluntarily running these items (I am, as expressed above),but most vehicles do not run down like the GMT900 does.

Does anyone here have guages / sensors to measure load?

What's the battery load when say you leave it sit for an hour?
after you press unlock?
after you press lock
when you run the radio? (no engine).

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October 26th, 2011, 10:11 PM

#17

in2pro

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some modules can run with key off up to 40 minutes...

"The engine off natural vacuum (EONV) diagnostic is the small-leak detection diagnostic for the evaporative emission (EVAP) system. While previous leak detection methods were performed with the engine running, the EONV diagnostic monitors the EVAP system pressure or vacuum with the ignition OFF. Because of this, it may be normal for the control module to remain active for up to 40 minutes after the ignition is turned OFF. This is important to remember when performing a parasitic draw test on vehicles equipped with EONV."

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October 28th, 2011, 12:04 PM

#18

slw210

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SabrToothSqrl

You need a multimeter to check the numbers, but a small 12V light bulb will let you know if there is a draw on the battery when shut off. Just disconnect the Positive cable from the battery and use the bulb circuit (or multimeter) to make the connection from cable to battery post, if it lights up or you get a reading you have a draw when the ignition is off. Slowing turn on equipment and use a multimeter to check individual draw.

That's why I drive the older stuff. I don't want my vehicle to suddenly turn into Optimus Prime.

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October 28th, 2011, 12:59 PM

#19

SabrToothSqrl

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lol

i hate it when my truck turns into a transformer! but at least it's a 'good' one?

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October 29th, 2011, 5:13 PM

#20

legolas894

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It's not clear from the poster if he has his key in accessory position or in run. He intially said he turned his A/C and radio off. The A/C fan would only run in RUN not in ACC. If you have your key turned to RUN with the engine off, you are running all your engine computers, ignition, etc. Everything is energized ready to run. No battery will last long without the engine running under that draw. On ACC, only a limited number of items will be operable (and much less current drain).