i was going to tackle the spark plugs tomorrow. i have the oem iridiums already. took out #1 which was easy enough to inspect. it's definitely time for new ones. But after looking at #8 I feel like it's gonna be a pain in the A$$. any tips or advice on how i should go about #8 which will be the first one i do. because if i can't then theres no point in doing the other 7

forgot to mention it's an 07 5.3 burb

 

Might try one of those ratchets that has a T-handle on the end that is handy once the plug is broke loose. Or one or two U-joints might work. I always try to do the hard one first then it's all downhill.

If the heads are aluminum, be sure to put some anti-seize on the new plug's threads. But keep it away from the electrodes.

 

ugh, #8 was a PITA! Had to use fancy swivel extension to do it, get a stool or something and just lay on the front of the car, I did all 7 and then fought 8... And the plugs that came out were original 2006 plugs with 122K on them, and they were fine...

 

I have not done mine yet, but don't rule out reaching from underneath... I haven't looked at it yet, but its something to keep in mind...

here is the torque spec:
Tighten the spark plug
Tighten the plug to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Also if you have access to an air compressor, give the plug hole a shot of air prior to removing the old plug to keep debris from falling into the cylinder...

As for applying anti-seize to the threads... the service manual does not say to do so, nor does it say not to... if you do use it, use it sparingly, and avoid getting any on the tip or anymore then needed into the cylinder, I have heard it can affect the O2 sensors.... (I would use it)

And despite what anyone tells you about the plug coming out of the box already gaped, check them, but be careful not to damage the tip!

Applying a dab of silicone grease to the inside of the plug boot will help in future removal...

 

Interestingly that most, if not all, new O2 sensors come with anti-seize already on the threads.

The reason to ensure that it doesn't get near the electrodes is that it is very conductive and will cause misfires.

 

Is the number 8 cylinder the one on the passenger side closest to the firewall?

 

Yes. odd numbers are on the driver side and even numbers are on the passenger side. The counting starts at the front of the engine.

 

I seem to recall using 1 or even 2 universal joints on my socket, a boat load of cussing, and a skinned knuckle. That's why I sold my truck at 185k. Didn't want to do the 200k plug swap.

 

Ahh, I learned something new today! Thanks!

 

I used a single swivel joint too. It was a pain but at least I know it's done and done right. My plugs came out looking fairly new for 100k miles.