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Convert an Autoride 01 Tahoe to use standard shocks?

73shark's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2006
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KC, MO area

March 10th, 2009, 10:42 PM   #11  
While $600 is high, I checked on ones for an old Lincoln about 15-20 years ago and they were $800 ea.

MontanaMike's Avatar
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In the Flathhead Valley, Mont

March 13th, 2009, 9:40 PM   #12  
A guy at Les Schwab told me a lady brought her Caddie in for new shocks and they were $1200 a piece. She gladly said "Do it".

Has anyone had any luck finding non-autoride shocks for an autoride (Z55) 01 Tahoe?

diggerdpilot's Avatar
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April 14th, 2009, 9:48 AM   #13  
I am watching this with interest, I am in the same boat. I found Just, and the Chevy guy there says it can be done, by unplugging the air compressor fuse, but it will "disable" other options. I am actually picking his brain now, but dont like the sound of it. Probably just go to NAPA and hope the work discount I get comes through, then go home and smack the Tahoe.


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Roxboro, NC

April 23rd, 2009, 6:03 PM   #14  

My 2001 Tahoe LT has 155k and the airshocks are shot. The compressor kicks on several times in one 5 mile drive. Anyway, the cheapest I can find replacements OEM + Non-Oem shocks are $620 for each corner.

I plan on sell this vehicle and do not want to invest that much money into it. Does anyone know if there is a way to disable the autoride and replace the shocks with standard shocks? According to GM and the local Carquest store, there is not direct conversion.

If there is an existing thread on this issue, please post the link.

Thanks in advance.

It sounds like the whole system is shot. The best thing to do would be to go to Strut Masters. Are conversion kits are made here in our facility. We use powder coated AMERICAN STEEL coil springs that are guaranteed to last the life of the car. If you are not looking to invest alot of money in the car then I would recomend the Conversion Kit with suspention alternitives. This will will give instruction on how to disable ride light and put the pieces where they need to be. (yes there is a way to replace the shcoks with standard shocks) This will also improve the value of your car when you sell it, this should get what u need done for a cheaper price.

Below is the link to the Chevy page.

I hope I was of some help to you

Good Luck!!!

newdriver's Avatar
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April 30th, 2009, 12:29 AM   #15  
just came across this thread. i bid my rear autoride shocks from gandrautoparts on e-bay for $345/pair. front shocks available from saeparts , or from arnottindustries.

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Northern Va

May 29th, 2009, 1:06 PM   #16  
Check out I just replaced my whole autorde system for about $600.00 That included the pump and shocks that are direct oem replacements.

WI-Badger's Avatar
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August 4th, 2009, 2:39 PM   #17  
AutoRide Disconnect

Gents -- I, too, have been a recent OEM "shock-ed" victim ... since there doesn't appear to be any bailout money available -- I couldn't find a cash-for-shocks program -- I have been looking for alternatives ... I came across a link that describes how the autoride feature can be disconnected/disabled.

Here is the link: ... if the link won't work, search the web for "autoride disconnect." (Credit goes to "Jacqson" out of Vancouver, BC)

The system is controlled by the SCM (Suspension Control Module) which detects body roll and suspension movement and adjusts the shocks accordingly. This info is also fed to the BCM (Body Control Module) which also monitors wheel speed, ABS and the EVO. The RPO codes (Z55 for the 2500; Z55 and/or ZK3 for the 1500) are input into the BCM which monitors all the functions of these 2 codes. If you disconnect the shocks or the system detects a voltage flux or change you get the light show on the dash. The Helms Manual states that if you replace the BCM you are supposed to input all your RPO codes into it. If you disconnect the SCM and then input all your RPO codes into the BCM except the 1 or 2 autoride codes the system shouldn't detect the Autoride.

In essence, if you take your BCM and re-program it without the autoride RPO code(s), your vehicle will operate as before (ie, no codes or flashing dash lights) and you can install any type of shock you desire.

Jacqson -- the author of the cited link -- indicates that for the 2500, it doesn't have the load leveling feature with the air pump, so disconnecting the autoride is no huge loss. If this project is done on a 1500 you will probably have to firm up the rear coils and definitely use a good set of monotube shocks like Bilsteins.

Jacqson also indicated that "after driving the truck for about a month now in different driving conditions including off road and there are no problems to report. The ride on the truck is a little smoother with the Bilsteins and everything is working perfect. The handling and braking have not changed and other than the better ride there is no difference in the way the truck works, except for the fact that when I need shocks I won't go bankrupt trying to buy them."

Finally, I have not yet disconnected the autoride on my Sub (I'm still researching this issue), so I cannot provide you with any data/experience(s)/etc. Should I move forward and attempt the disconnect procedure, I will let everyone know. Regards, Greg.

73shark's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2006
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KC, MO area

August 5th, 2009, 10:22 PM   #18  
Welcome to the forum. Thanks for the info.

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April 7th, 2010, 11:19 PM   #19  
Agreed, this issue sucks. I've been trying to find a workable solution to this problem on my '01 Yukon XL for the last 2 years when the compressor took a dump on me. In the beginning I was able to disconnect the compressor and hook up a fill valve to the line, manually filling with air whenever towing my trailer (this did not illuminate the service light). When the bags on the shocks started to leak, though, I was out of luck. . . and working suspension. As you mentioned, these suckers are spendy, but I have recently come across a few much more reasonable options. Check out I'll let you know how mine turn out. Also, If you can bypass the service light issue Bilstein offers a shock that's Heavy duty and cheap $140/pair rear, sold at autozone.
Good luck!

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Wichita, KS

April 8th, 2010, 8:18 AM   #20  
I think if you want to avoid the GM pricetag you have the 2 choices listed; Strutmasters and Arnott. We Cadillac drivers have had the problem for years. I'm on borrowed time in my STS.

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