Ok, I'll do that in a few. That you for you quick responses. I real appreciate it

 

I'm out here burping my system again. I been out here 25 minutes and none of my hoses are hot. In fact the bottom hose to tha radiator is cold. The top hose to radiator is luke warm. 1 hester hose is warm and the other is almost cold. Do anyone knows what this problem is. Plus i have my truck raised between 6 to 10 inches

 

Note: Skeeda has stated: "I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe 5.3l Z71 and my coolant temp keeps reading low. I changed the coolant sensor 3 times. Changed the thermostat 3 times and still getting low readings. Plus I'm getting a code saying it lost communication with the drivers information panel. I had that rebuilt and still, I'm having the same problems with both. Have anyone had these problems before?"

Your situation sounds like that coolant is going through the radiator way too early, never gets a chance to heat up the coolant.

The coolant should bypass the radiator until the coolant gets hot enough to open the thermostat. I've had a 2005 Yukon, that had a thermostat inside the water pump: is that what you're talking about?

 

If you have no coolant leaking on the ground or a coolant soaked engine compartment skip checking for coolant leaking from the weep hole or the bearings. Also if your vehicle won't even heat up I am doubting a problem with a leaking water pump, you certainly have plenty of coolant flow. This is likely why you have no cab heat and the upper/lower radiator hoses are too cold.

Hot coolant needs to move into the heater core to make heat in the cab. If the temp guage reads normal but you get no heat, it is likely the flow to your heater core. If temp guage is accurate and stays in the lower range as you said...probably a thermostat. If you don't have time until the weekend to change thermostat...you can place a piece of cardboard covering about half the radiator surface. (put it on the front side facing the direction you are traveling...secure it with duct tape or w/e as a temp fix). Adjust the ammount of surface area covered as needed to get heat in the cab. Keep in mind if you bought the vehicle used and it was always like this you can expose other issues when you do things like replace the thermostat. If the water pump is weak and you replace the thermostat you can suddenly find the vehicle overheats. (people sometimes remove or puncture the thermostat IOT solve issues with a weak water pump)

 

Sorry i feel asleep from frustration. I had my truck for awhile and it's hard getting to the front of the radiator cuz it has some other radiator like thing in front of it. I wud have to take the whole radiator back out and unhook hoses. I just didn't have the time today. So wud I cover the top half or the bottom half of the radiator? So how do I solve the opening to soon part?

 

That part would be the condenser for the AC system, do do not want to touch that. With the engine on, air goes through it and the radiator. Make sure that the plastic radiator shrouds are still in place.

I also wonder if your vents are stuck so cold outside air is always coming in.....or even that your AC/defrost system is always on producing cold air.

You may want to take to a local independent ASE mechanic shop that has good ratings - not a dealer !!!

 

Ok, the way things going I may have to take out to a shop

 

Before i go to shop I'ma put a new water pump and gm thermostat in. I looked at gm thermostat and the one that's one here now and it's a big difference. Tha one I got in here now was holes at the bottom of thermostat and the gm don't and the top is way different than gm. Gm has a cone top and the other has a bubble type top

 

I just drive home from work about 30 minutes away. My top radiator hose got hotter than it was yesterday. My 2 heater hoses were both warmer than yesterday and my bottom radiator hose was a little warm but not cold like yesterday. But i also remembered that when I ran my ac it went to normal temp but when I cut it off it'll go back down to low temp
Update: I found out why truck won't get up to temp. It's my clutch fan. I changed it a few yrs ago. But when I had to replace the radiator when start my first post of it on the forum. I guess it's not sturdy or what have like the GM radiator and my clutch fan always spinning hard. The clutch fan I took out was the original but you can spin it when the engine wasn't on and that's why I changed it. I put a reader in my ob2 port and when I press on gas peddle down steady you see my temp dropping. So imagine in the winter time 🤷🏾‍♂️

 

As I mentioned in another thread, you can get by, blocking the radiator about half-way, with coated canvas or something that which blocks the air over the radiator. They sell a cool, large thermostat for cheap a the auto-parts stores. I would not change the pump out..You can put it the front vents in the cabin as it has a clip, and see what your temperatures really are. The motor should be at 190 to 210.F. If your ECM is working properly, it ought to also give you your temperature is in the engine. If it's too cold the engine wont operate properly, and you might even damage your catalytic converter, if it's not burning the fuel properly..