So, got the burban from my FiL, was told the compressor and shocks are shot, and that the airbags he had installed were fine. Found out from Chevy that those aren't replacements for shocks, so I went and replaced all 4, as well as the compressor. These were passive shocks, so a resistor was bundled in to fool the comp to stop sending the Service Ride Control message. I checked all fuses and they're not blown, but compressor isn't turning on at all, and the service ride control is still showing up. Besides the level arm and the alc relay, any other ideas about what could be wrong? (By the way, I haven't tested those two parts yet.)

 

The year of the truck might aid in the troubleshooting. I believe on my autoride shocks there are also electrical connectors that plug into the rears as well as the air hoses. For the fronts, the resistor trick to work...I have done it on my own.

I would maybe try pulling the battery for a few minutes and see if the light goes away? Or clear it with a scan tool? Or at least have a place like autozone pull the actual code...actually I'd pull the code first if the connectors on the rear shocks are hooked up.

I never had any problems with mine but I did the resistor trick prior to any dash light indicators...

 

Sorry, I forgot to put the year 2004 LT. I put the resistors that came with the shocks on all 4 of the harnesses, and that's what I thought would be the main thing to fix it. I can't get a code pull or a code reset without going to the dealership, since this isn't an EDC, but something more specific (I can't remember the term...but it's within a system, not the check engine light, so only the dealer can check it.)

I'm gonna take it to Les Schwab and have them take a peek first before I do a hard reset with the battery. The 4WD and Idle Control Module LOVE to freak out when I disconnect the battery, and while it doesn't cause any actual damage, the wife freaks out a little if the car dies in the parking lot because the idle is resetting.

The only other thing I could think to check would be the relay by the under hood fuse block, otherwise it's the short or the level control arm, no?

Also, I put passives in for all 4 shocks, so the auto ride is going to be missing for the back 2. I don't care about that so much as the auto level system, which doesn't use those electrical connectors, hence the resistors.

 

Ahh ok. I'm at a loss for the earlier models and how their leveling systems work.

I recall something about a module that can go bad thats back there underneath the truck, but again that might be on later units.