I'm currrently stumped on how to bypass the factory Bose amp and use the factory speaker wires to run a 6 channel amp. I have a 2007 Tahoe LTZ with the 6 speaker + subwoofer BOSE system with the PAC GM31 which retains the Bose system, Chimes, and retained power. My question is where would I tap into the factory speaker wires to run the speakers off a Kenwood XR600.6DSP 6 channel amp? Behind the radio or at the amp in the console?

Focal components in front, Focal in rear, stock subwoofer, Kenwood XR600.6DSP amp, iDataLink AR (amplifier replacement), still clueless on how to get power to the speakers using the factory wiring.

I should also mention that I will have this factory amp, front tweeters, door speakers, rear door speakers, and rear D pillar speakers that someone can own if they are looking for that specific type of amp or speakers.

I have uploaded a photo album for anyone interested in helping me out to see what equipment I have.
https://www.photo-pick.com/online/XfFIQjvx.link

 

Just an update for anyone looking. I've sucessfully gutted the entire BOSE system out and kept the OEM wiring. I did a Kenwood Double Din head unit with Wireless Android Auto and NAV. Multi Angle Backup camera. JL Audio HD 900/5 Amplifier in the same location as the BOSE factory amp. Component door speakers in front and Coaxial door speakers in rear. I left the D Pillar speakers alone as its not worth it to push them.

If anyone finding this post has any questions as to how everything works, or needs advise on wiring I'll be sure to help because I know how bad it sucks to ask for help and not get it. (cough) PM me if you have any questions!

 

I just upgraded the factory junk speakers in my Bose surround system '11 Tahoe and it was a world of difference. Coaxial in all 4 of the doors woke it up.
Too many aftermarket HU issues for me in a old truck that you'll never get the money back on.

 

Email sent.

 

Where you able to retain factory functions such as door and signal chimes, along with steering wheel control and factory back up camera. Not worried about onStar or bluetooth. Also did you have to disable the road noise cancellation system if equipped.

 

I would like more details about hitting the entire Bose systems

 

To "PM" somebody means "Private Message"
Click on his username. Keep in mind he hasn't been active here in 15 months.
I think you're better off telling us what you need. You can find schematics on charm.li

 

Thanks for your reply. I’m interested in bypassing or getting rid of the entire Bose system in my 2004 Suburban. I would only like to retain the chimes since I do not have SWC or Onstar.

More than not I need every bit of my cargo space with 3rd row removed and second row folded flat, so I’ve toyed with the idea of having a removable sub. However I would like to keep some low end when the box is removed. So I’m thinking could I have a removable sub box, but have an additional sub in the center console where the Bose factory sub is or in the rear where the 8 inch sub cut out is. Since I have a Bose system I doubt there’s an actual 8 inch box in the rear. So to sum up, I would change the head unit, front and rear doors, subs, and add a five channel amp.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Trev

 

how did you end up wiring the speakers up?

 

Hey! I saw you PM'd me this morning but your profile is to new for me to send you a PM. No worries. I went with the iDataLink Maestro RR kit and used the iDatalink ADS HRN-RR-GM5+ Interface Harness which retained chime (it has a chime speaker) and all accessory power. It also has gauges on my Kenwood Double Din since it uses an OBD2 connection for things like RPM, trans temp, vehicle speed, tire pressure, and door open notifications on the head unit.

As far as the speakers, I removed the center console and under it is the BOSE amp. I used a 9v battery to test out positive and negative wires that went to door speakers. if I remember correctly, all - and + wires are right next to each other in that connector that goes into the BOSE amp. I cut off the BOSE connector but left about 10-12 inches of wiring in case I ever needed to splice it back on to return things to factory. I wish they made a connector that you could unplug from your amp, plug in the connector, and it have wires labeled to each speaker, but that's not the case.

You can put 1 wire on the + of the 9v battery and the other on the - side of the battery. The speaker will hummm and you know that is the right speaker. You MUST make sure the polarity is correct as speakers will work hooked up backwards (- to + and + to -) but it won't sound right. I labeled each speaker as I went. I ended up going with a JL Audio 900/5 amp and kept only the subwoofer and rear D pillar speakers. I kept the subwoofer because the only company that sells a replacement subwoofer is JL Audio and they wanted $600+ for it. Honestly the subwoofer really woke up with that amp, especially because it's ported and not sealed from the factory.

If your doing component speakers for the front speakers, you will have to run speaker wire from the door panel to the tweeter IF you use a crossover box. How they wired it with the BOSE system is it's all 1 pair of wires for the door woofer and tweeter. If you have a crossover on your amp, be sure to use it, however it never helped and I blew through a set of tweeters within the first month. After installing the crossover box inside the door and running speaker wires for the tweeters, and setting the crossover appropriately, they sound awesome and haven't had any problems. Who knew tweeters didn't like having 75htz blasted in them lol

It was a huge project. In the end I learned a lot. If I had to do it over, I would relocate the amp to the rear. I had to make modifications to the center console due to the huge size of the JL Audio 900/5 amp. I made it look clean but it was a LOT of work getting it to fit.

Good luck with your project. I still drive my Tahoe to this day and absolutely love listening to the music in it