Factory Bose - Upgrading Entire Audio System
CF Beginner
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
So I decided to have installed a new Sony head unit, focal components and coax’s, kicker 8 inch sub in the rear cargo factory sub location ( I installed the factory box from a 2002 suburban), JL XD700/5 v2. I also have a JL Audio ACP208LG-W3v3 powered dual 8 box.
My installer bypassed the entire Bose system and ran all new speaker wire. The only issue that I’m experiencing are the with the subs. I want the kicker sub to run off the jl amp. But how do I incorporate the JL powered duel 8 subs? Crutchfield suggested that I buy 2 17 foot RCA cables and 3 splitters to split the sub preamp signals. I’m still not following and neither did my installer friend.
Can anyone provide some help with the sub setup. How do I utilize the powered sun box (power…)
Thanks,
Trev
My installer bypassed the entire Bose system and ran all new speaker wire. The only issue that I’m experiencing are the with the subs. I want the kicker sub to run off the jl amp. But how do I incorporate the JL powered duel 8 subs? Crutchfield suggested that I buy 2 17 foot RCA cables and 3 splitters to split the sub preamp signals. I’m still not following and neither did my installer friend.
Can anyone provide some help with the sub setup. How do I utilize the powered sun box (power…)
Thanks,
Trev
CF Beginner
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I'm currrently stumped on how to bypass the factory Bose amp and use the factory speaker wires to run a 6 channel amp. I have a 2007 Tahoe LTZ with the 6 speaker + subwoofer BOSE system with the PAC GM31 which retains the Bose system, Chimes, and retained power. My question is where would I tap into the factory speaker wires to run the speakers off a Kenwood XR600.6DSP 6 channel amp? Behind the radio or at the amp in the console?
Focal components in front, Focal in rear, stock subwoofer, Kenwood XR600.6DSP amp, iDataLink AR (amplifier replacement), still clueless on how to get power to the speakers using the factory wiring.
I should also mention that I will have this factory amp, front tweeters, door speakers, rear door speakers, and rear D pillar speakers that someone can own if they are looking for that specific type of amp or speakers.
I have uploaded a photo album for anyone interested in helping me out to see what equipment I have.
https://www.photo-pick.com/online/XfFIQjvx.link
Focal components in front, Focal in rear, stock subwoofer, Kenwood XR600.6DSP amp, iDataLink AR (amplifier replacement), still clueless on how to get power to the speakers using the factory wiring.
I should also mention that I will have this factory amp, front tweeters, door speakers, rear door speakers, and rear D pillar speakers that someone can own if they are looking for that specific type of amp or speakers.
I have uploaded a photo album for anyone interested in helping me out to see what equipment I have.
https://www.photo-pick.com/online/XfFIQjvx.link
Hey! I saw you PM'd me this morning but your profile is to new for me to send you a PM. No worries. I went with the iDataLink Maestro RR kit and used the iDatalink ADS HRN-RR-GM5+ Interface Harness which retained chime (it has a chime speaker) and all accessory power. It also has gauges on my Kenwood Double Din since it uses an OBD2 connection for things like RPM, trans temp, vehicle speed, tire pressure, and door open notifications on the head unit.
As far as the speakers, I removed the center console and under it is the BOSE amp. I used a 9v battery to test out positive and negative wires that went to door speakers. if I remember correctly, all - and + wires are right next to each other in that connector that goes into the BOSE amp. I cut off the BOSE connector but left about 10-12 inches of wiring in case I ever needed to splice it back on to return things to factory. I wish they made a connector that you could unplug from your amp, plug in the connector, and it have wires labeled to each speaker, but that's not the case.
You can put 1 wire on the + of the 9v battery and the other on the - side of the battery. The speaker will hummm and you know that is the right speaker. You MUST make sure the polarity is correct as speakers will work hooked up backwards (- to + and + to -) but it won't sound right. I labeled each speaker as I went. I ended up going with a JL Audio 900/5 amp and kept only the subwoofer and rear D pillar speakers. I kept the subwoofer because the only company that sells a replacement subwoofer is JL Audio and they wanted $600+ for it. Honestly the subwoofer really woke up with that amp, especially because it's ported and not sealed from the factory.
If your doing component speakers for the front speakers, you will have to run speaker wire from the door panel to the tweeter IF you use a crossover box. How they wired it with the BOSE system is it's all 1 pair of wires for the door woofer and tweeter. If you have a crossover on your amp, be sure to use it, however it never helped and I blew through a set of tweeters within the first month. After installing the crossover box inside the door and running speaker wires for the tweeters, and setting the crossover appropriately, they sound awesome and haven't had any problems. Who knew tweeters didn't like having 75htz blasted in them lol
It was a huge project. In the end I learned a lot. If I had to do it over, I would relocate the amp to the rear. I had to make modifications to the center console due to the huge size of the JL Audio 900/5 amp. I made it look clean but it was a LOT of work getting it to fit.
Good luck with your project. I still drive my Tahoe to this day and absolutely love listening to the music in it
As far as the speakers, I removed the center console and under it is the BOSE amp. I used a 9v battery to test out positive and negative wires that went to door speakers. if I remember correctly, all - and + wires are right next to each other in that connector that goes into the BOSE amp. I cut off the BOSE connector but left about 10-12 inches of wiring in case I ever needed to splice it back on to return things to factory. I wish they made a connector that you could unplug from your amp, plug in the connector, and it have wires labeled to each speaker, but that's not the case.
You can put 1 wire on the + of the 9v battery and the other on the - side of the battery. The speaker will hummm and you know that is the right speaker. You MUST make sure the polarity is correct as speakers will work hooked up backwards (- to + and + to -) but it won't sound right. I labeled each speaker as I went. I ended up going with a JL Audio 900/5 amp and kept only the subwoofer and rear D pillar speakers. I kept the subwoofer because the only company that sells a replacement subwoofer is JL Audio and they wanted $600+ for it. Honestly the subwoofer really woke up with that amp, especially because it's ported and not sealed from the factory.
If your doing component speakers for the front speakers, you will have to run speaker wire from the door panel to the tweeter IF you use a crossover box. How they wired it with the BOSE system is it's all 1 pair of wires for the door woofer and tweeter. If you have a crossover on your amp, be sure to use it, however it never helped and I blew through a set of tweeters within the first month. After installing the crossover box inside the door and running speaker wires for the tweeters, and setting the crossover appropriately, they sound awesome and haven't had any problems. Who knew tweeters didn't like having 75htz blasted in them lol
It was a huge project. In the end I learned a lot. If I had to do it over, I would relocate the amp to the rear. I had to make modifications to the center console due to the huge size of the JL Audio 900/5 amp. I made it look clean but it was a LOT of work getting it to fit.
Good luck with your project. I still drive my Tahoe to this day and absolutely love listening to the music in it
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