Frozen or Siezed Emergency Brake
During the winter months (Alaska) around 30*F my emergency brake freezes on, and the vehicle is un-movable. Is there anyone else with this issue and has anyone heard of a fix. I contacted a dealership in Anchorage who's service department just agreed with me, telling me that there are a small set of shoes on the inside of the rear disc brake hubs that act as the emergency brake. This seems like a poor design and one that should not be occurring on a 2005 Tahoe costing as much as it did.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
Jeremy
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
Jeremy
I don't live in Alaska but PA is pretty cold most of the winter.
I have always been told to NOT put on the E-brake after driving in cold wet conditions, Especially if a run through some water/ice. It will almost always freeze tight as the vehicle sits and the brakes cool down from running temperature.
I am in the habit of always using the E-brake (to take the pressure off of the park pawl)when I park but have to remember under those conditions not to set it.
Don't all munufactures use a small setof pads on the rear disc or drum???
I have always been told to NOT put on the E-brake after driving in cold wet conditions, Especially if a run through some water/ice. It will almost always freeze tight as the vehicle sits and the brakes cool down from running temperature.
I am in the habit of always using the E-brake (to take the pressure off of the park pawl)when I park but have to remember under those conditions not to set it.
Don't all munufactures use a small setof pads on the rear disc or drum???
ORIGINAL: tahoe07
Don't all manufacturers use a small setof pads on the rear disc or drum???
Don't all manufacturers use a small setof pads on the rear disc or drum???
Not sure if Tahoes have this or not but my '73 Corvette has a rubber boot on each end of the cable housing to keep out moisture. When I restored the rear suspension, I greased the cable where it was inside the housing and packed the rubber boots w/ grease. No more moisture.

One note of caution: if you don't use your parking brake for extended periods, rust will form and cause the cable to stick the next time the brake is used which will in turn wear out the shoes. [
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I wasn't trying to argue. I've heard and seen both. You're right.
It's the taking off part that really stinks. If your pads are frozen to your disc. It will let you know in a hurry.
It's the taking off part that really stinks. If your pads are frozen to your disc. It will let you know in a hurry.
I agree. My Corvette would sort of do that if I washed it and then put it away for a couple of days. The pads and caliper kind of grew together with the rust. Felt like the car was nailed down and then it would break loose.
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In very cold weather the E-brake shoes will not release if they are set after driving and become contaminated with moisture.As good and expensive as vehicles are they can’t always overcome Mother Nature, she is one powerful gal.
I've seen plenty of $100k+ semi trucks reduced to 80,000lb paperweights due to frozen brakes.
I've seen plenty of $100k+ semi trucks reduced to 80,000lb paperweights due to frozen brakes.
My situation is similar in that the truck ('98 Silverado) won't move but it's not an issue with the temperature. We are well above freezing temperatures. The release mechanism works: the pedal comes up (returns to the inactive position); the activating mechanism (wheel-like) releases; the cable to the brakes releases to its inactivated position, but the brakes are stuck on it seems. The truck strains to go forward or rearward but cannot move, the rear wheels being seized somehow.
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