Lisa McNiff Komorous

Thank you! Just called the dealer again and they seem to agree that it could be the wheel speed sensor. Last time it was in, they couldn't duplicate and said it wasn't throwing codes. The light goes on for about a minute and goes back off. I have another appointment on Monday to take it in. Definitely feels like the left front wheel. They suggested a wheel bearing, but I've had enough wheel bearings replaced to know what that sounds like, and I don't hear it. The brakes feel fine and no ABS codes. I'll update after next Monday. I just want it fixed before we have ice and snow here in Michigan. Jerking like that could be really dangerous on a slick road.

David Herrera

Alright— same EXACT issue!! No joke—I’m helping cause I’d LOVE the favor returned when I had that issue.. i ran a diagnostic obd2 scanner and it told me the EXACT wheel hub that was having the issue— I replaced the hub which was attached to a abs sensor that plugs into the abs wire harness easy... little work.. no trial and error.. replaced the hub with a good MOOG brand hub and reset the lights with the scanner.. and VOILA!! Fixed.. reason it would pop on and off was due to driving and hitting bumps-up and down etc- you get the idea— pinching the wire in a sense.. on another vehicle is was the same— and instead of replacing the hub with a MOOG- I bought a 15-20 dollar wire harness and and VOILA—quick fix— due to it going on and off?? I would gamble that this is the precise issue— good luck

Lisa McNiff Komorous

I have an appointment today at 1:00 pm to take it to the dealer for a diagnostic test. My regular mechanic does have a scanner, but last time I took it he said it didn't throw any codes and he thought it was a wiring issue. I'm hoping to get answer today anyway. The jerking is not at all cool!

Lisa McNiff Komorous

OK -- update: The dealer says that I need a module for the rear differential, which will cost $1167. They also say that I need to replace two front stabilizer links. I called my regular mechanic and he's going to look at the diagnostic sheet. Total cost over $1,500. So even if the dealer is correct it's a lot of money for a car that's been nickel and diming me and I still don't have any guarantee that this will turn off the darn lights. I think I'll also run the above wire harness info by him and see what he thinks.

Lisa McNiff Komorous

If anyone is interested here are the codes: RDCCM, CO8000e, C056D, u0100, u0101, u0121, u0140, u1827. Took those to my regular mechanic for his review. Will keep you posted.

nil2thebrain

Sometimes having several codes like that is just a chain effect from one issue at hand- and repairing that one thing? Then resetting it? Can very much possibly repair the extra chain reacted events— I had several codes such as that- for example- if you needed a o2 sensor- it will also trigger that your Catalytic converter is messed up- (which is very pricy) repair the o2sensor and BOOM!! The catalytic converters is fine after a reset

Chris Stacker

Can you update what happened? I just did the same thing and have the same issue in my 2013 Tahoe. Hit a curb, blew a tire...replaced tire but the ABS, TPMS, Stabilitrack and Traction Control lights are all on. How did you fix?

Dusty Koops

I ran the code reader when mine did the same thing. Said to replace all this different crap. It wasnt a constant fault so i figured it was electrical irregularity. I noticed it happen ed more when it was cold. As simple as this may sound, i replaced my battery. My old battery had enough juice to start my vehicle but didnt have the cold cranking amps as it did when new. Since the. I have had no issues with stabiltrak service lights, misfiring codes etc. Hope this helps as i too was getting aggravated

nil2thebrain

I would 1st assume the ABS wire that goes from back of rotor to the module I’m assuming— it’s like 15-18 bucks if not then you likely will go to number 2- which is check your bearings by jacking up and seeing if any play in tire/wheel is up and down or side to side- it can also be a tie rod— but a ABS sensor is your likely culprit— it’s routine for us when hitting that horrible pothole or ugly bump.It can hopefully be just to unplug this from back of rotor and giving it a really good cleaning— could be a speck of dirt messing up your contact- I get that or a rock falls into by brake pad area but a lotta left and rights and punching the gas to get it weaseled out.. lights usually go out without need for a code reading machine that clears codes— the problem repaired? The light simply goes away—

lastly— my worst possible issue wit Stabilitrak Light and Service this and That light—I got someone who knows what they are doing cause a lot of possible”Oops” can arise from him doing one thing wrong or out of order— that’s issue was SAS- “Steering Angle Sensor”
Our trucks don't recalibrate when turning ignition and turning steering wheel to left and right then center— dealership will tell you that—also— do Not believe when ANYONE tells you that you need to have the dealership have it “Flashed” nope our trucks don’t work that way—. You’ll need to replace that sensor that’s very hard to get to and NOT turn ur steering wheel in the process!! Duct tape it up like 4-5 times to be absolute cause the job can be done? But the problem will STILL be there—and under NO circumstance- do you or the mechanic pull the spiral pin out UNTIL is it securely fastened because this is what keeps these Sensors Calibrated in the 1st place.. The dealership will tell you that it’s a Spun Angle Sensor and it needs replaced and they’ll do it correct- light will go away— but versus paying a minimum of 1195.99? you can find a mechanic that’ll do it a max of 350-400- including $149 part. The dealership updated this sensor and it has 8 Pins that’ll fit snug and update your previous 6 pin without need of an adapter.. Great thing!

Jon Broyles

I purchased a 2014 GMC Yukon XL SLT.

96k miles on it. A week ago my wife was driving when all of a sudden she had a severe loss of power with the check engine light coming on along along with the stabilitrac light and traction control light. Mechanic said its showing an error code in cylinder 7. We took it to our local mechanic and we/they can not find the problem and I feel like we’re going down a rabbit hole. We have done the following trying to chase the problem:

- new spark plugs and wires
- new fuel injector on #7
- they tested the engine to make sure cylinder is working properly and engine pressure (all is good)

.....they said that the spark plug doesn’t look like it’s getting fuel (but it is sparking). They now feel that the problem leans towards electrical (wiring harness?). The mechanics said they need some time to review electrical diagrams to try and trace it back.

I’ve spent hours reading posts online and it seems like it’s a reoccurring problem.

Some things that have been recommended:

- ground wires (damaged or loose)
- check fuse tied to fuel injector
- air intake crack
- bad wiring harness
- mass air flow sensor
- injector receiving the right power, fuse?
- AFM lifter
- airflow sensor
- reset the PCM
- one of the banks on the air/o2 sensor

any thoughts?