If anyone is interested here are the codes: RDCCM, CO8000e, C056D, u0100, u0101, u0121, u0140, u1827. Took those to my regular mechanic for his review. Will keep you posted.

 

Sometimes having several codes like that is just a chain effect from one issue at hand- and repairing that one thing? Then resetting it? Can very much possibly repair the extra chain reacted events— I had several codes such as that- for example- if you needed a o2 sensor- it will also trigger that your Catalytic converter is messed up- (which is very pricy) repair the o2sensor and BOOM!! The catalytic converters is fine after a reset

 

Can you update what happened? I just did the same thing and have the same issue in my 2013 Tahoe. Hit a curb, blew a tire...replaced tire but the ABS, TPMS, Stabilitrack and Traction Control lights are all on. How did you fix?

 

I ran the code reader when mine did the same thing. Said to replace all this different crap. It wasnt a constant fault so i figured it was electrical irregularity. I noticed it happen ed more when it was cold. As simple as this may sound, i replaced my battery. My old battery had enough juice to start my vehicle but didnt have the cold cranking amps as it did when new. Since the. I have had no issues with stabiltrak service lights, misfiring codes etc. Hope this helps as i too was getting aggravated

 

I would 1st assume the ABS wire that goes from back of rotor to the module I’m assuming— it’s like 15-18 bucks if not then you likely will go to number 2- which is check your bearings by jacking up and seeing if any play in tire/wheel is up and down or side to side- it can also be a tie rod— but a ABS sensor is your likely culprit— it’s routine for us when hitting that horrible pothole or ugly bump.It can hopefully be just to unplug this from back of rotor and giving it a really good cleaning— could be a speck of dirt messing up your contact- I get that or a rock falls into by brake pad area but a lotta left and rights and punching the gas to get it weaseled out.. lights usually go out without need for a code reading machine that clears codes— the problem repaired? The light simply goes away—

lastly— my worst possible issue wit Stabilitrak Light and Service this and That light—I got someone who knows what they are doing cause a lot of possible”Oops” can arise from him doing one thing wrong or out of order— that’s issue was SAS- “Steering Angle Sensor”
Our trucks don't recalibrate when turning ignition and turning steering wheel to left and right then center— dealership will tell you that—also— do Not believe when ANYONE tells you that you need to have the dealership have it “Flashed” nope our trucks don’t work that way—. You’ll need to replace that sensor that’s very hard to get to and NOT turn ur steering wheel in the process!! Duct tape it up like 4-5 times to be absolute cause the job can be done? But the problem will STILL be there—and under NO circumstance- do you or the mechanic pull the spiral pin out UNTIL is it securely fastened because this is what keeps these Sensors Calibrated in the 1st place.. The dealership will tell you that it’s a Spun Angle Sensor and it needs replaced and they’ll do it correct- light will go away— but versus paying a minimum of 1195.99? you can find a mechanic that’ll do it a max of 350-400- including $149 part. The dealership updated this sensor and it has 8 Pins that’ll fit snug and update your previous 6 pin without need of an adapter.. Great thing!

 

I purchased a 2014 GMC Yukon XL SLT.

96k miles on it. A week ago my wife was driving when all of a sudden she had a severe loss of power with the check engine light coming on along along with the stabilitrac light and traction control light. Mechanic said its showing an error code in cylinder 7. We took it to our local mechanic and we/they can not find the problem and I feel like we’re going down a rabbit hole. We have done the following trying to chase the problem:

- new spark plugs and wires
- new fuel injector on #7
- they tested the engine to make sure cylinder is working properly and engine pressure (all is good)

.....they said that the spark plug doesn’t look like it’s getting fuel (but it is sparking). They now feel that the problem leans towards electrical (wiring harness?). The mechanics said they need some time to review electrical diagrams to try and trace it back.

I’ve spent hours reading posts online and it seems like it’s a reoccurring problem.

Some things that have been recommended:

- ground wires (damaged or loose)
- check fuse tied to fuel injector
- air intake crack
- bad wiring harness
- mass air flow sensor
- injector receiving the right power, fuse?
- AFM lifter
- airflow sensor
- reset the PCM
- one of the banks on the air/o2 sensor

any thoughts?

 

Was told my computer needed to be replaced , suburban was randomly getting service stabi/tc/abs and the trans was falling into limp mode, long story short. My negative cable ground rested on my block (getting hot) and exposed the intrernal wires. Luckily I found it myself before dealing with dealerships/mechanics. I suggest running your hand along the negative cable making sure the rubber coating is not impaired. Hope this helps.

Ps- I tried everything before finding this, removing the negative cable to reset my computer. Grounding my computer, checking fuses, changing trans fluid, checking wheel speed sensors, you name it I tried it. Easy fix. Negative terminal on the battery posts was frayed.

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I will Bank that it is either that wheel hub assembly- or quite possibly be the wheel speed sensor- check all the connections- usually after the repair- the lights will cease without having to reset via scanner

 

2013 chevy silverado 1500
Could you please help me. i have tried everything I know to fix this problem, but nothing good.... the stabiltrak and traction on my truck turned off and wont come back on what do i do.

 

I replaced spark plugs and wires and this seems to have solved the problem. Its only been 8 hrs but all is well so far.