It's been a long long time since I've done a brake replace on a truck (86 Ram Charger around 10 years ago to be exact). I've got to change the pads on my burban and I need all the help I can get. The dealer near me wants roughly $450 to change all the pads and turn the rotors on my truck. I don't have that kind of money but I need brakes and I want to change them before they get so low that they start grooving into the rotors. My front pads are at 6mm will my rear pads are at 3mm.

Is there a step by step tutorial out there than can help me out on this? I also need to know which tools I'll need to do this job. Will a C-clap work to reset the caliper or will a special caliper tool be needed in order to reset the caliper on these trucks? It's questions like that I need answers for. I really want to take care of my rear brakes this weekend so any help you guys could provide I sure would appreciate it.

I also when to Haynes to see if they had a repair manual for my truck. It appears that after the 2006 model, Haynes didn't make a manual for 07, 08, or 09 burbans or Tahoes. What gives with that?

 

Why did the dealer want to turn the rotors?

 

It is common practice in any shop to turn the rotors with a brake job.

Yes you can use a c- clamp on all 4 calipers

 

In the olden days, you could turn the rotor and be back in business. But the OEM rotors are crap. You turn them, they get thinner, and warp much easier. IMO, it's better to replace them. Curiously, you and I must be the only ones doing the brakes, because I asked the same question myself, and zippo for responses. I'm doing mine Sunday, and I'll let you know how it goes.

*EDIT* Rescheduled due to bad weather

 

Just curious as to why it's "common practice"?

I've replaced a lot of pads and only had to replace rotors once, Jeep Cherokee.

 

I believe I read in a shop manual that turning the rotors is not needed unless they are grooved and damaged, but the rotor surface should be roughed up to removed the glaze.
I agree with Hardin that turning them will only make them fail sooner, if you make it to the second needing of changing the pads, replace the rotors at that time

 

Thanks for some of the replies guys. With the help of one of my friends who does nothing but work on cars in his free time, was able to help me out. The changing of the brakes was easier than i though. Only had to remove the top and bottom retaining bolts on the calipers to get them off. There was no deep grooves on the rotors so I just sanded them to scuff them up for the new pads I got from autozone.

Now I need to take care of the front brakes. Even though the dealer said I still had a good amount of pad on them, I'll feel better knowing I have new brake pads all around. I will also have to scuff up the front rotors as well do to glossing, which is still cauisng my front brakes to sqeel.

I did have a hell of a time resetting the caliper back in, the C claps that I used were not that great. Do you guys know of any GM specific caliper claps I should be using? Want to make the front brake job as painless as possible.

 

well guys thanks for the input on the brakes. im getting ready to change the back pads on my burb. i was just wondering what i was getting into. ill let you all know how it goes.

 

Don't forget to lube the guides with brake lube.

 

Hey man it is actually very easy, first remove the two bolts that hold the calipers on, then remove the screw that connects the brake line, remove the entire unit and place on a work bench, unscrew the other two bolts and the pads will come out. Place the new pads in the top piece as the metal guids show, use a c clamp or specialty tool to compress the pistons back and reassemble. Make sure to leave the wheels off till after you bleed the brakes, it's not going to be easy to do with them on. That's it I changed all 4 wheels in about an hour.