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Low Oil Pressure warning
#61
Replacing the oil regulargy basing on its mileage can prevent low oil pressure. This engine wearing ang tearing that will make the oil like a dirt sticking on the filters and linings. Worst, it will create more damage to your engine. Just an advice.
#63
We had to have a new sending unit installed and it appears to be fixed! We love our Suburban and feel very fortunate that this was all that had to be done. As for the noise I was hearing apparently one of the pulleys was loose and we had all the belts replaced too. Seems like a new running vehicle again.
We are due for an oil change in approximately 500 miles. I'm wondering if it's time to try the Sea foam procedure? Is there any other way to test that screen or is it just a trial and error routine?
#64
CF Junior Member
Here we are almost 1 year from the oil pressure episode and it has happened again. This is extremely frustrating to say the least. After feeling as though the problem was fixed, now we are dealing with the situation all over again.
We are due for an oil change in approximately 500 miles. I'm wondering if it's time to try the Sea foam procedure? Is there any other way to test that screen or is it just a trial and error routine?
We are due for an oil change in approximately 500 miles. I'm wondering if it's time to try the Sea foam procedure? Is there any other way to test that screen or is it just a trial and error routine?
I'm curious, have you been running standard or synthetic oil for the past year?
By the way, my oil pressure reading has been normal since I did the Seafoam treatment and oil/filter/synthetic changeover. I've been all over the place - (City/highway, Cleveland and back etc)
#65
I can't imagine any way to test the screen other than opening up the top end and visually inspecting it. I suggest trying the Seafoam method 100 miles or so before your next oil change. You've got nothing to lose.
I'm curious, have you been running standard or synthetic oil for the past year?
By the way, my oil pressure reading has been normal since I did the Seafoam treatment and oil/filter/synthetic changeover. I've been all over the place - (City/highway, Cleveland and back etc)
I'm curious, have you been running standard or synthetic oil for the past year?
By the way, my oil pressure reading has been normal since I did the Seafoam treatment and oil/filter/synthetic changeover. I've been all over the place - (City/highway, Cleveland and back etc)
I have been running standard oil but also have been very strict as to not let the car go more than 3-4000 miles between changes. I have no problem switching to complete synthetic at this point, but I would like to have some assurance that the existing problem with the oil pressure is fixed.
My wife was pretty adamant about not driving the suburban while it was giving these warning signals so we have now taken it back into the dealership. I'll keep you posted on what they come back with. I can only imagine that it will be pretty interesting.
#66
No oil pressure
I had the same problem. 2007 Suburban 137,xxx miles. Bought in 2011 with 90k. I have run full synthetic since I have owned it. The wife racks up miles so change interval I run about 4000-5000 miles. Valvoline Synpower and Wix filters.
Wife lost oil pressure the other day. Ordered a new pressure sensor 3 day later I got that put in and no change on the gauge.
I ended up having a microgard oil filter on the truck. Went to town got a new Wix filter, bam 70 psi oil pressure
Wife lost oil pressure the other day. Ordered a new pressure sensor 3 day later I got that put in and no change on the gauge.
I ended up having a microgard oil filter on the truck. Went to town got a new Wix filter, bam 70 psi oil pressure
#68
Hey guys,
Hopefully no one minds me hijacking this thread a bit. I'm having a similar problem...
I’ll try to be succinct as possible:
Vehicle: 2004 Suburban z71 5.3L 4x4
Miles: 210k
Details: Oil recently changed with Castrol 5w30, AC Filter. I just purchased the vehicle last night (2/17/14)
Symptoms:
At start up, oil pressure is 20psi at idle, 25psi at 2800rpm (OEM gauge)<o</o
After 5 minutes of driving, 25psi at idle, 39psiat 2800rpm (OEM gauge)<o</o
Single lifter noise after about 5 minutes of operation<o</o
Lifter noise goes away when vehicle warms up<o</o
Here is my theory: I think the oil pump has a leak on the suction side. I believe that when the oil is cold and thick, air is being introduced either by a crack in the pick-up tube or at an o-ring on the suction side. I think this air is getting into the lifters and causing one or more of them to collapse, causing lifter noise. When the oil warms up, it is easier for the pump to move it and less air, or no further air is introduced. Eventually the air is forced from the lifters and the noise goes away. I may be reaching here but i'm also thinking that with less air in the pump the pressure would come up. This would explain the higher pressure with higher temperature.
I don’t believe the pump is bad because pressure is acceptable at normal operating temperature.
I have read several threads about oil pump problems with this engine. Can someone please tell me if there is something else I need to consider, or something else I can check in order to confirm this? Also, can someone share a link or explain exactly what needs to be done to remove the oil pan and/or oil pump on this vehicle with 4WD?
<oThanks!!</o
Hopefully no one minds me hijacking this thread a bit. I'm having a similar problem...
I’ll try to be succinct as possible:
Vehicle: 2004 Suburban z71 5.3L 4x4
Miles: 210k
Details: Oil recently changed with Castrol 5w30, AC Filter. I just purchased the vehicle last night (2/17/14)
Symptoms:
At start up, oil pressure is 20psi at idle, 25psi at 2800rpm (OEM gauge)<o</o
After 5 minutes of driving, 25psi at idle, 39psiat 2800rpm (OEM gauge)<o</o
Single lifter noise after about 5 minutes of operation<o</o
Lifter noise goes away when vehicle warms up<o</o
Here is my theory: I think the oil pump has a leak on the suction side. I believe that when the oil is cold and thick, air is being introduced either by a crack in the pick-up tube or at an o-ring on the suction side. I think this air is getting into the lifters and causing one or more of them to collapse, causing lifter noise. When the oil warms up, it is easier for the pump to move it and less air, or no further air is introduced. Eventually the air is forced from the lifters and the noise goes away. I may be reaching here but i'm also thinking that with less air in the pump the pressure would come up. This would explain the higher pressure with higher temperature.
I don’t believe the pump is bad because pressure is acceptable at normal operating temperature.
I have read several threads about oil pump problems with this engine. Can someone please tell me if there is something else I need to consider, or something else I can check in order to confirm this? Also, can someone share a link or explain exactly what needs to be done to remove the oil pan and/or oil pump on this vehicle with 4WD?
<oThanks!!</o
Last edited by tt_tony; February 18th, 2014 at 7:45 PM.
#69
Pulled the pan down and installed new pickup tube and oring. Also installed 10w30 and new AC filter. I think he was running 0w20 or 30 before, synthetic. ANYWAY, oil pressure is great now. 40psi at cold idle, 60psi at cold 2500rpm. 30psi at idle and operating temp, 50psi at 2500rpm. Love it! 3800 for a beautiful 04 z71 with 210k. i'll take it. I will bring the pickup tube in to work and check it for leaks when i get the chance.
#70
I just recently purchased a 08 chevy sub. I too am having problems with low oil pressure but to the point I have already replaced one engine. The sensors were suppose to have been changed by the dealer ship but my oil pressure still drops down between 10 and 40 when at a complete stop but still in drive. Is this norman for this vehicle. I too am out of warrenty.