Noluckchuck

Hi... I'm brand new on this site and haven't quite figured out how to use it. I did a search for "milky oil" and ended up ont this post (or I guess I'm in a thread). I know I should read about the site, but don't really have time.

I have been researching the web and have found related information but nothing definitive, so I thought I'd join and see if I can get an answer.

When I first read through this thread I thought I found the answer I needed, but then I realized you are talking about a V6 Grand Am. I have a 96 Tahoe, 5.7. Should I go to another forum or can you guys help me?

My question is this: I know I have a lot of coolant in my crankcase, but how do I determine if it is the intake or the head?

I already have the intake off, but don't really want to pull the heads if they are not the problem.

Vehicle Info: Just turned over 300k miles. I replaced the intake manifold gasket right after I got the vehicle with a 100k. It had an exteral leak then. I'm wondering if this intake manifold is not notorious for leaking like the one you are talking about above. I can't believe it only has 8 bolts... 4 on each end and none in the middle. Also the very low torque tighening spec is unbelievable. I remember when I put the other gasket on I couldn't believe that was all I was suppose to tighten it.... as a matter of fact when I just removed it the bolts barely felt more than hand tight.

Anyway... please help or let me know if I need to go to another forum or start a new post or what?

Btw.... the info you provided above is awesome and very generous... you guys are awesome!

EvansBlue

Water is a magical anti-lubricant. When it gets where only oil should be, it can cause excessive wear in a short amount of time, so park it and figure out where you have the leak before you take off anywhere with it.

Mike Sigmond

I second that.

MDTAHOE

At 300k if you pull the heads and put the back on the engine may not last much longer. Also if coolant has been in the oil for a long time while it was running those already tired (300k) bearings could be just about shot. These engines very rarely have head problems

Noluckchuck

Thanks guys. Even though I know I have the hard part done (intake), I am still reluctant to pull the heads for several reasons. For one, it's still a lot more work. For another, I scared to death I'll snap a bolt... OMG been there a few times... For another, it may not even be the problem and it would be a lot of extra work and money for nothing.

Even before I pulled the intake, I was thinking I should probably save the time and money and just buy a crate engine. But, that 300 k motor runs (or should I say ran great), holds 40 to 50 psi oil pressure, and no bearing noise (except when start up and it's always been like that and heard they all do). I would like to put it back together and see if I can squeeze another 40 or 50k out of it... then mabe a crate engine. But if I put the engine... what about the tranny? Or rear end?

I am really inclined to just try the intake because I feel about 80% sure that is the problem.

73shark

Then put the intake back on and see what happens. If you still get water in the oil, then heads or block are suspect assuming the intake sealed properly.

shawnvw

I'm with MDTAHOE on this one....

Noluckchuck

I have read a lot... trying to make a decision and most of the info was that it was most likely the head gasket or cracked or warped head. My gut was telling me it was just the intake (because replace it 175k mi earlier, because of the stupid 8 bolt design, etc, etc.). Also, interestingly enough when I was in autozone getting the intake gasket, a guy came in carrying head and intake gasket... and said same problem... pulled the heads and no problem and showed where he determined the intake gasket was actually leaking.

Anyway I put it all back together and leak problem solved. I was pretty proud of myself as it started right up and ran/idled perfectly (got the distributor, wires, etc right the first try).

NOW... changed oil 3 times to clear the gunk out but now have a terrible knock and squirely oil pressure. It's hard to believe it the milky oil could have caused that much damage as I was very carefull not to run it much. Is it possible an oil passage is just plugged up and needs cleared or is that the bearings are simply wacked now. When I first start it up now cold oil pressure goes to 50... and sounds great to about 1500 rpm... then the more it warms up pressure drops and gets louder.

I know what the answer is going to be... 300k bearings... forget about it! Right? I was hoping to squeeze another couple months out of it for transportation while I look for a "crate" motor... but I guess that aint happening.

Btw... many sites for crate motors... some are "remanufacturered" crate motors and some are acually "new". Interesting. THe price seems near the same... but I know I shojuld go for the "new" goodwrench motor... right?

ANY advise? THoughts?

Mike Sigmond

Sorry to hear that man. Water sucks when it does what it does in the oil.

shawnvw

Get some Lucas oil treatment to try squeezing that couple months out of it