Need help - Suburban battery drain
March 5th, 2014, 5:36 PM
#11
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Pulled the passenger front door power window block and disconnected everything, no change. Pulled the controls from the side of the passenger seat and unplugged those (seat movement and lumbar) as well, no change.
I pulled the top of the main fuse block in the engine compartment off. Finally noticed a change. But, it was weird. There is still a draw, but when I initially touch the terminal/ground wire with the multimeter, there is a draw, and then it drops a bit, maybe .1 amps and stays there. I'm wondering if there is some residual power in the system somewhere. I'm leaving the battery disconnected as I do all this diagnosing. And, am going to try and test for a load after dinner. Maybe then that will show a difference.
So, what do I try now? The bottom of the fuse block is 4-5 large connectors with a ton of wires in them. It doesn't look like there is a part that I can replace, aside from large wiring harnesses. I was thinking I could try connecting the blocks back to the top of the fuse block one at a time and test for a draw after each one and maybe narrow this down some more. Is it possible there is a problem with the top part of the fuse block? Any idea how I would test that it is the top part?
Any other suggestions?
I pulled the top of the main fuse block in the engine compartment off. Finally noticed a change. But, it was weird. There is still a draw, but when I initially touch the terminal/ground wire with the multimeter, there is a draw, and then it drops a bit, maybe .1 amps and stays there. I'm wondering if there is some residual power in the system somewhere. I'm leaving the battery disconnected as I do all this diagnosing. And, am going to try and test for a load after dinner. Maybe then that will show a difference.
So, what do I try now? The bottom of the fuse block is 4-5 large connectors with a ton of wires in them. It doesn't look like there is a part that I can replace, aside from large wiring harnesses. I was thinking I could try connecting the blocks back to the top of the fuse block one at a time and test for a draw after each one and maybe narrow this down some more. Is it possible there is a problem with the top part of the fuse block? Any idea how I would test that it is the top part?
Any other suggestions?
March 7th, 2014, 7:29 PM
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Ok.. So, the positive terminal of the battery has two cables running from it. One looks like it runs to the starter, and the other runs to a fuse on the firewall. The other side of the fuse has two cables running from it. One goes to the fuse box in the engine compartment, and the other goes to the alternator.
With the top panel off of the fuse box, if I disconnect the battery that runs to the fuse on the firewall, my drain drops from 3.75 amps down to .5 amps. So, I'm guessing that's the draw that the starter is putting on the battery. Does a .5 amp draw from a starter sound right? I'm thinking that might be another thing for me to look into down the road, but not the immediate concern.
If I reconnect the cable from the battery to the fuse on the firewall, leave the top panel off of the fuse box and disconnect the cable at the alternator, the drain again drops to .5. If I then connect either the alternator or the fuse box upper panel, the drain pops back up to 3.75. This is why when I originally tried disconnecting the alternator, it still showed a drain. The drain only drops after both the fuse box and alternator are disconnected.
I'm wondering what this might mean.. Does this seem pretty indicative that the alternator has an issue? There was some corrosion on the terminal of the fuse on the firewall where the alternator cable and fuse box cable were attached. Could the fuse be causing the problem? Any ideas?
Here's a pic of the fuse, and the corrosion on the post..
With the top panel off of the fuse box, if I disconnect the battery that runs to the fuse on the firewall, my drain drops from 3.75 amps down to .5 amps. So, I'm guessing that's the draw that the starter is putting on the battery. Does a .5 amp draw from a starter sound right? I'm thinking that might be another thing for me to look into down the road, but not the immediate concern.
If I reconnect the cable from the battery to the fuse on the firewall, leave the top panel off of the fuse box and disconnect the cable at the alternator, the drain again drops to .5. If I then connect either the alternator or the fuse box upper panel, the drain pops back up to 3.75. This is why when I originally tried disconnecting the alternator, it still showed a drain. The drain only drops after both the fuse box and alternator are disconnected.
I'm wondering what this might mean.. Does this seem pretty indicative that the alternator has an issue? There was some corrosion on the terminal of the fuse on the firewall where the alternator cable and fuse box cable were attached. Could the fuse be causing the problem? Any ideas?
Here's a pic of the fuse, and the corrosion on the post..
May 5th, 2014, 12:32 AM
#15
What did you ever find out on this? I have a very similar problem I've been trying to track down in my 2004 Tahoe. I'm starting to think my BCM needs reprogramming, like the recall for the 2003 models.
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Victor Toribio (September 28th, 2023)
May 5th, 2014, 10:06 AM
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It turns out, I was using my multi-meter wrong. I had it set to mA, but I forgot to move the cable from the A port to the mA port on the meter. So, I was getting weird readings the whole time, none of which were reliable. When I realized this, and moved to the correct port, the parasitic drain was gone. I think it was probably the rear wiper fuse or one of the passenger seat electrical components that I disconnected.
I've been busy on other projects, and haven't been able to get back to the truck to get the rear wiper and passenger electronics fixed yet. But, the drain is gone..
My only advice would be to double check which port on the multi-meter you are using, and make sure it's the correct one!
I've been busy on other projects, and haven't been able to get back to the truck to get the rear wiper and passenger electronics fixed yet. But, the drain is gone..
My only advice would be to double check which port on the multi-meter you are using, and make sure it's the correct one!
May 8th, 2014, 1:38 PM
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My drain was real too.
Unfortunately, I wasn't using the multi-meter right when I was pulling fuses, looking for where the drain came from though.
I would take an hour or two some day and start pulling fuses. Check the alternator first though. If you can get a buddy to man the multi-meter while you pull fuses, it can go fairly quickly.
GL dude!
Unfortunately, I wasn't using the multi-meter right when I was pulling fuses, looking for where the drain came from though.
I would take an hour or two some day and start pulling fuses. Check the alternator first though. If you can get a buddy to man the multi-meter while you pull fuses, it can go fairly quickly.
GL dude!
December 27th, 2021, 9:48 PM
#20
Did you find your solution? I have the same issue! Lights, door...
The battery in my 2007 Suburban is dying over night. It's a new battery.
I did a parasite check, and it is showing 2.25A draw with the keys off, doors closed and no interior or exterior lights on.
I went through and pulled all of the fuses in the engine compartment fuse block and the fuse block in the dash on the driver's side, but the drain never let up.
I also disconnected the alternator to check for a bad diode, but that didn't have an effect either.
My only guess for a next step is to try going through the fuse blocks again, but this time leaving all the fuses out as I pull them..?
Any other suggestions?
I purchased the truck used about 5-6 months ago. I did notice that the truck would drain over 3+ days if I didn't drive it. When the cold weather hit my area (Michigan), maybe Nov-Dec, I bought a new battery. I went with the AutoZone Duralast Platinum.
Also, there are issues with the passenger side electronics. The turn signal in the passenger rear-view mirror doesn't work, the power mirror functions don't work on that side, the heating elements work in the seat, but the buttons don't light up.
Lastly, the rear wiper has been acting up. I turned it one evening after work, and it strained against some ice that had built up on the window. Since then, the wiper doesn't articulate the full length of the mirror. I was hoping that was the issue, but even after removing the rear wiper fuse in the interior fuse block, the car is still drawing the 2.25 amps.
It is very cold up here at this time. I know winter/cold weather isn't good for batteries. Is it possible that the cold weather is amplifying the drain on the battery?
Any advice on what steps to take next to track this down? What would be powerful enough to draw 2.25 amps? That seems like a LOT..
I did a parasite check, and it is showing 2.25A draw with the keys off, doors closed and no interior or exterior lights on.
I went through and pulled all of the fuses in the engine compartment fuse block and the fuse block in the dash on the driver's side, but the drain never let up.
I also disconnected the alternator to check for a bad diode, but that didn't have an effect either.
My only guess for a next step is to try going through the fuse blocks again, but this time leaving all the fuses out as I pull them..?
Any other suggestions?
I purchased the truck used about 5-6 months ago. I did notice that the truck would drain over 3+ days if I didn't drive it. When the cold weather hit my area (Michigan), maybe Nov-Dec, I bought a new battery. I went with the AutoZone Duralast Platinum.
Also, there are issues with the passenger side electronics. The turn signal in the passenger rear-view mirror doesn't work, the power mirror functions don't work on that side, the heating elements work in the seat, but the buttons don't light up.
Lastly, the rear wiper has been acting up. I turned it one evening after work, and it strained against some ice that had built up on the window. Since then, the wiper doesn't articulate the full length of the mirror. I was hoping that was the issue, but even after removing the rear wiper fuse in the interior fuse block, the car is still drawing the 2.25 amps.
It is very cold up here at this time. I know winter/cold weather isn't good for batteries. Is it possible that the cold weather is amplifying the drain on the battery?
Any advice on what steps to take next to track this down? What would be powerful enough to draw 2.25 amps? That seems like a LOT..