funnyguyMI

The battery in my 2007 Suburban is dying over night. It's a new battery.

I did a parasite check, and it is showing 2.25A draw with the keys off, doors closed and no interior or exterior lights on.

I went through and pulled all of the fuses in the engine compartment fuse block and the fuse block in the dash on the driver's side, but the drain never let up.

I also disconnected the alternator to check for a bad diode, but that didn't have an effect either.

My only guess for a next step is to try going through the fuse blocks again, but this time leaving all the fuses out as I pull them..?

Any other suggestions?

I purchased the truck used about 5-6 months ago. I did notice that the truck would drain over 3+ days if I didn't drive it. When the cold weather hit my area (Michigan), maybe Nov-Dec, I bought a new battery. I went with the AutoZone Duralast Platinum.

Also, there are issues with the passenger side electronics. The turn signal in the passenger rear-view mirror doesn't work, the power mirror functions don't work on that side, the heating elements work in the seat, but the buttons don't light up.

Lastly, the rear wiper has been acting up. I turned it one evening after work, and it strained against some ice that had built up on the window. Since then, the wiper doesn't articulate the full length of the mirror. I was hoping that was the issue, but even after removing the rear wiper fuse in the interior fuse block, the car is still drawing the 2.25 amps.

It is very cold up here at this time. I know winter/cold weather isn't good for batteries. Is it possible that the cold weather is amplifying the drain on the battery?

Any advice on what steps to take next to track this down? What would be powerful enough to draw 2.25 amps? That seems like a LOT..

trainwreck91

Its not the cold. I'm in NY. Just as cold here. No issues. Might be a short on the pass side drawing the power. Pretty sure if you resolve those issues the battery will stop draining. As for the wiper check to see if the but that holds it came loose with the force of the ice.

funnyguyMI

Yeah, starting with the passenger side problems is probably a good idea. Any idea how I'd go about narrowing down the issues there?

intheburbs

The power window switch on the passenger door would be a good place to start. Everything in that area plugs into it - passenger power mirror, etc.

There are several videos on youtube about removing the door panel. It did it when I installed my HD towing mirrors - the mirror plugs directly into the window switch.

Here's a good video - go to 1:42 to begin the process

Typerod

Another thing to check, if it the BCM (body control module) is going to sleep. I remember of a software update that my Tahoe needed for this same issue. Good luck!

in2pro

When doing the fuse pull check, be sure to do the relays also, you could have a relay that is stuck...

jamurrin

Well...I just went through a similar issue that turned out to be the chaffed battery cable shorting to the battery tray. Your '07 seems maybe a little too new for that to be the issue..but you should still inspect the battery cable.

This video is a pretty good step-by-step of how to use a meter to check for parasitic draw on the battery.

funnyguyMI

Thanks for the video jamurrin. There were some good tips in there. While I had the switch set to keep the interior lights off when a door is opened, I didn't use anything to make sure the "door ajar" button was depressed. I will try that and re-test the interior fuses.

in2pro

The door ajar and switch are all located in the door lock assembly...
see this post on how to by-pass it if you want to keep the door open and the interior lights off and door chime disabled...
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...leaning-37474/

funnyguyMI

Thanks int2pro. You just saved me a couple frustrating hours tonight! If not more.. :-/