So I just got my 2005 Chevy burb and I love it. Well its October in MN so the weather is starting to get cold. The heat is blowing just fine in the back and passenger side but its outside temp on the driver side. This has probably been asked already but any ideas on what this could be? The dealer we bought this from is suppose to change my AC belt so I wasn't sure if that is the problem or not? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

If you get an answer, I'd like to see it, too! We have a 2006 Suburban. For a year and a half, I've been trying to figure out this driver side heating/AC issue. I'm in PA, and this is really a safety issue in the winters! A non-working defroster is not a good thing.

We have had this in two different garages, including a dealership, at least six times. They've changed the actuator three times. They're reset computers, and "cleared codes" and told me it's fixed. I've probably spent about $500 on it so far and NOTHING has been fixed. We've tried the DIY resets listed in other forums - one side 60, the other 90, engine off, engine on, reverse temps, repeat. Sometimes it seems to correct and work for a while. Other times it doesn't. This seems like such a common problem, and in my opinion, there ought to have been a recall on this.

My input is this - when whatever part is malfunctioning doesn't have to move much, it seems to work consistently. If it's summer, and the AC is on all the time, it usually works. At the change of seasons, where you could be using both heat and AC on the same day, that's when it really acts up. Mine really doesn't work well in the colder temps. It seems that the air we're getting on the driver side is outside air temperature. As I drive, I notice that the pressure of the air coming from the vents increases - that is, like the outside air blows harder with increased speed. There must be a blend door or something that is sticking, and causing the outside air to come in instead of the properly cooled/heated air. If I get to my destination when the heat/ac isn't working, and then turn the car off and back on within a few minutes, it often works. But not always. If the engine has time to cool off a good bit, then it usually won't work. Whatever part is faulty isn't entirely "broken" because it does work sometimes.

I'm so tired of freezing/roasting. I love this truck, but this is beyond frustrating. And I'm getting nowhere. I don't want to take it to the garage again to have them change the actuator a fourth time. If that works, it's only temporary. It's been so long since we've been dealing with this, that I don't remember any more if it was touched off by a battery change.

Hoping we get some REAL answers to this problem or I may be done with this truck.