Hello.

English is not my strong side, but i will try to make myself clear.

had a very rough idle, and some stalling and in the end it didnt start at all.

Replaced coil and crank sensor, didnt start.

replaced cam sensor, ignition control module, distributor cap and rotor.

No it runs very well, and no trouble exept:

after about 30 minutes of driving the p1345 and check engine light appears.
i delete the code, but after 30 minutes it comes again.

I never loosened the distributor, just cap and rotor, but i cranked the engine
to get out the cam sensor.

The car i'm talking about is a 99 suburban k1500 with 5,7 vortec

Any ideas?

Thanks from Norwegian trucker.

 

Remove your distributor cap again and check to see if the rotor is securely screwed down. Mine has come loose and completely come off twice since I installed a new rotor. Now, the screws that came with the rotor do not tighten at all. Maybe some of the rotors sold are coming with bad screws. I am replacing the whole distributor today in hopes of getting a higher quality distributor. Also, recheck your spark wires to make sure they are all in the right places.

 

I am having a similar issue. Did a complete tune-up since I needed it anyway. 97 Chevy Suburban k1500 350 vortec 5.7l v8 throwing a p1345 code still after new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, PCV valve. 180000 miles...I'm starting to think its the timing chain and not the actual cam and crankshaft sensors. Any thoughts?

 

I had ongoing distributor problems with my 1999 Suburban and had to replace the distributor on two occasions. The first time I just reintroduced the problem by buying the same plastic crap distributor that came from GM. The second time, I purchased an aluminum billet distributor from MSD and it completely solved the problem.

 

Good to know...and they are pretty reasonably priced through Rock Auto. Were you getting the Crank and Cam Position Sensor P1345 code when you did this?

 

No. It was just to fix an ongoing distributor problem like that described by the post by kubd2000--problems with rotor screws not holding in plastic assembly. Bought the MSD distributor through Amazon.

 

Chris9793, how would the distributor get knocked out of time by changing in the fuel pressure regulator? I just replaced my spider fuel injection assembly and now I have the code. I know nothing electronic got moved or bumped. How did you verify the timing was out?

 

Don't know how that would happen unless distributor got bumped somehow. I still have intermittent rough running problem. Talked to my neighbor who bought same vehicle and put 98 engine in it and he has same intermittent rough running. Both of us are scratching our heads! Just happy it runs and gets us around.

 

I have a 96 sierra 1500 5.0 that has the same code. I had someone check my timing and it is at -17 when it should be at around 0. After talking to a shop they said I should replace both sensors but I'm sure that won't fix the problem. I'm sure the distributor needs adjusting or could it be the timing chain?

 

your specific issue could simply be stretched timing chain combined with the distributor gear teeth being worn down causing slop.

you can pull the cap, get a 5/8” socket and extension, and move the crank forward a half inch, mark where the rotor stops on a visible portion of the crank pulley, then move the crank backwards until the rotor starts to move again. That measurement is the amount of slop between the chain and cam gear on the distributor also counting the dust gear slop.