For anyone that has converted a burb/tahoe to a non OEM suspension can you share your review?

I like the ride of mine currently (even with compressor shot and not working) and don't want a truck like ride if I put on a Arnott or Bielstien product.

 

well, I haven't done the conversion but I have: Put in New compressor and put in Bilstein Air Shocks in the rear of my Burb with 121K. The compressor went back @100k and the shocks were done @102k. I put the Bilsteins in @119K right before a FL trip. I can tell you its no truck ride. The ride is BETTER with the Bilsteins. My word of advice, Don't ever doubt Bilstein. They are the Top manufacturer of suspension products and their technology can't be beat.

I can once again tow with my Burb and the ride to FL was very smooth. Although the 2007 never did ride as smooth as 2002 But YOU CAN order the factory shocks that are electronically controlled rebuilt through Arnott. Or for $10 cheaper you can get the Bilsteins. Its up to you. I would NOT convert your Burb. It will ride much worse and truly drive like a truck with the conversion....

 

Keep in mind that Monroe makes AutoRide replacements for our vehicles. Go to

MONROE SHOCKS & STRUTS :: Ride Safe with the Industry Leader of Ride Control Products

and look up the part numbers. You can do a part number search at

RockAuto Parts Catalog

to look them up. They are significantly cheaper than what the dealer charges, plus I've read that Monroe is actually the OEM and the AC Delco AutoRide shocks are rebadged Monroe units.

Also, you can usually get a 5% discount code for rockauto.com at

www.RockAuto.com (Parts for cars)- immediate 5% discount

Just go to the end of that thread and look for codes.

 

$290 for one shock! :O whoa! I only paid $370 for a pair of Bilsteins. And actually the actual shock absorber maybe made by Monroe and re-badged AC-Delco but the air bag is Arnott. For every car manufacturer period. They design and make ALL factory air suspension for consumer cars. I would go with the Bilsteins straight from Arnott because they are cheaper and still ride great. Monroe and Bilstein are both great companies but I believe Bilstein is above Monroe.

 

Sorry for not being more clear. The Monroe and AC Delco units are used ONLY if you have the Z55 AutoRide package (electronic damping PLUS auto-leveling). If you have AutoRide, the Bilstein conversion will lose electronic damping but keep auto-leveling. That's why the price is significantly different, and why people usually describe this as a "conversion."

I paid $224 apiece for my fronts and $223 apiece for the rears, minus the 5% discount, plus shipping. This was for a 2006 Yukon XL Denali.

 

The Bilsteins are the exact same thing only they control them selves. This is why they ride better and are a superior shock. They have internal mechanics that varies their dampening and its they are more responsive than the on board computer in the car and there is less things to fail. The Bilsteins have the electronic bypass so the computer thinks its working. But the Bilsteins just adjust them selves.

I can't wait to get the Bilsteins in the front of my burb for a nice even smooth ride all around.

 

Just as you've described in your post, the Bilsteins are not "the exact same thing." The AutoRide shocks take input from the computer based on parameters such as vehicle speed, steering wheel input, etc. This allows the AutoRide suspension to remain soft in a straight line but to firm up when turning. AutoRide even has a separate damping profile when tow/haul is engaged. A conventional shock can change damping rates according to the irregularities it sees, but it knows nothing of speed, steering, or towing intent.

And yes, I've used Bilsteins on multiple cars in the past. I'm quite familiar with then, and I quite like them. But, they are not an identical replacement for the factory AutoRide system; they are a conversion with loss of some capability. However, many people have done the Arnott/Bilstein conversion and reported satisfactory results.

 

Thanks for the input. Sounds like Bilstein or Arnott are good choices. I am planning on a complete conversion to a standard suspension system.

 

With the bilstein a there is less to fail. Just the shock and air compressor. No computer and shock sensor. I like the way the bilstein a handle very much and I think you would be happy too.

 

I just purchased a 2003 Denali from a friend. His "Check Suspension" light was on and I knew his rear shocks were shot. There was holes in the bladders and the damn suspension compressor kept coming on. The suspension was so bad, that when I backed out of the driveway, the frame would hit the bump stops.

I did the research and I wasn't going to spend $300 for each rear shock and $150 for each front... plus have to get a new compressor soon. I looked at Arnott's "coil conversion"kit at a fare price of $450 (i had to shop awhile to find that deal). I liked their kit that it came with passive shocks that would hookup to the factory compressor and the "auto-leveling" would still work. They also came with new rear springs. You can find DIY videos for Arnott's coil conversion kit.

After going onto Amazon, I found the Monroe version. I think it was $110 for the shocks (and resistors), but was missing the springs. I ended up buying that kit along with Moog rear springs. I think my total investment was $180.

I don't know if this setup is better or worse than the factor autoride (when new), but man it's so much better than the blown system that I bought it as and saved me some serious money. Hooks up just like the old autoride system to the compressor and I can even hook it up to my garage compressor to adjust height. The only issue is the moog springs. It lifted the rear like an inch, so I had to raise the front an inch by tweaking the front torsion bars.

Other things to know... if your autoride has been bad for awhile (like mine), plan on replacing all steering components. My inner/outer tierods were bad. my pitman arm, ideler arm, ideler box, and sway bar bushings all had been destroyed by the failed system. I only had about 125k miles on the truck. when everything was replaced. Amazon has the best prices and moog makes some amazing products.