Replacing Autoride Rear Suspension - Tips
I recently replaced my rear air shocks with direct replacements from Arnott (AS-2127), and wanted to add some tips to the install videos that are already out there.
I've got a 2007 Tahoe LTZ, and the install was pretty straight forward taking a little over an hour, but there were a couple of things that would have saved me some time.
First of all, you really need to take off the wheel well cover. I spent 10 minutes trying to get to the top bolt with it on, and it was not worth it. To get the plastic cover off you need a 9/32 socket, and something to pull the other three plastic pressure fittings. A body panel removal tool was very useful here. Over all pretty easy to get off, and worth it for the extra access.
Strut bolts and nuts are 21mm. To loosen the top bolt, I used my 3/8 ratchet with a 6" extension that you have to maneuver up and around the frame to get the socket on the bolt. It's a little awkward, but not too bad.
Getting the new shocks on was a little tricky because you need to compress the shock about 6 inches to get the bottom bolt through. Takes about 60 lbs of force to get it compressed, while you line up the bolt, so it is easier if you have someone else hold it in position while getting the bolt through.
Last issue I had was a traction control/ stabilitrak/ abs light that came on when I started the car back up. Turns out there is a electrical connector near the top of shocks that's easy to loosen when you're wrenching on the top shock bolt. Turns out mine came loose on the passenger side, and I was able to feel around for it and re-connect it without jacking the car back up or removing the wheel.
Bottom line, for under $300 and less than 2 hours I was able to finish this common repair.
I've got a 2007 Tahoe LTZ, and the install was pretty straight forward taking a little over an hour, but there were a couple of things that would have saved me some time.
First of all, you really need to take off the wheel well cover. I spent 10 minutes trying to get to the top bolt with it on, and it was not worth it. To get the plastic cover off you need a 9/32 socket, and something to pull the other three plastic pressure fittings. A body panel removal tool was very useful here. Over all pretty easy to get off, and worth it for the extra access.
Strut bolts and nuts are 21mm. To loosen the top bolt, I used my 3/8 ratchet with a 6" extension that you have to maneuver up and around the frame to get the socket on the bolt. It's a little awkward, but not too bad.
Getting the new shocks on was a little tricky because you need to compress the shock about 6 inches to get the bottom bolt through. Takes about 60 lbs of force to get it compressed, while you line up the bolt, so it is easier if you have someone else hold it in position while getting the bolt through.
Last issue I had was a traction control/ stabilitrak/ abs light that came on when I started the car back up. Turns out there is a electrical connector near the top of shocks that's easy to loosen when you're wrenching on the top shock bolt. Turns out mine came loose on the passenger side, and I was able to feel around for it and re-connect it without jacking the car back up or removing the wheel.
Bottom line, for under $300 and less than 2 hours I was able to finish this common repair.
Welcome to the forum 
Those are some good tips, I too had the traction control light come on after replacing my standard shocks, did the exact same thing, knocked the connection loose... apparently that is a fairly common issue, as I had it happen and I have seen other post state the same thing....

Those are some good tips, I too had the traction control light come on after replacing my standard shocks, did the exact same thing, knocked the connection loose... apparently that is a fairly common issue, as I had it happen and I have seen other post state the same thing....
I've got about 86k miles, and noticed the compressor running non-stop if I had any load in the back. When I looked at the original shocks they looked pretty bad and were obviously leaking air.
I picked mine up from advance auto for about the same price, but arnott will send you a check for $50 if you ship your original shocks to them. They even include a pre-paid shipping label so it's really easy.
I picked mine up from advance auto for about the same price, but arnott will send you a check for $50 if you ship your original shocks to them. They even include a pre-paid shipping label so it's really easy.
I've got about 86k miles, and noticed the compressor running non-stop if I had any load in the back. When I looked at the original shocks they looked pretty bad and were obviously leaking air.
I picked mine up from advance auto for about the same price, but arnott will send you a check for $50 if you ship your original shocks to them. They even include a pre-paid shipping label so it's really easy.
I picked mine up from advance auto for about the same price, but arnott will send you a check for $50 if you ship your original shocks to them. They even include a pre-paid shipping label so it's really easy.
you can also get them direct from arnott and i think they'll give another 10% off if you mention the forum.
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...72_gid665.html
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...72_gid671.html
thanks for the tips. plan on doing mine in the spring
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...72_gid665.html
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...72_gid671.html
thanks for the tips. plan on doing mine in the spring
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when the compressor goes bad, seal the new one up with RED RTV. As the new ones aren't sealed as good as factory ones. Take the motor housing off, seal it, and then take the end cap of the compressor off, spray lubrication oil in, then seal it up. Will save a big head aches. Also, plan on those stupid plastic clips breaking! They only 2 of them ON PURPOSE. The rest are metal and of course one of mine broke, right now the right shock line is being held on with a Dodge Bumper retainer clip...
Oh, and for all of the connections (and any connections for any thing in the future) Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease is the best stuff ever, its expensive, but well worth it.
Wow, I bought it at $30 a tube, its only $20 now! Worth it!
Oh, and for all of the connections (and any connections for any thing in the future) Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease is the best stuff ever, its expensive, but well worth it.
Wow, I bought it at $30 a tube, its only $20 now! Worth it!
During my shopping exercise the shocks with shipping from Arnott were running $420-ish. Even after returning the core's for $50 the ebay vendor I used was lower cost @ $325. I wasn't aware of the discount for mentioning the forum. If you add shipping (shipping was free with the ebay vendor) but subtract the discount, I think the deal I got on ebay was pretty good, and no need to return the cores.
Arnott as 2127 Rear Air Ride Suspension Shock Pair Set for Chevy GMC Suburban | eBay
Arnott as 2127 Rear Air Ride Suspension Shock Pair Set for Chevy GMC Suburban | eBay
I noticed my compressor turning on for 6 seconds everytime I started the vehicle. Anytime I loaded it just slightly they ran nonstop, boat hitch, boat landing, etc. I checked the shocks and found a hole big enough for my little finger in the outer rubber bladder one side and a fatigued bladder on the other side.
I replaced my shocks in less than two hours with the Arnott re-manufactured shocks. After the install my compressor ran for 2-3 seconds, and I haven't heard it since. I only tow a Jet Ski and a small boat, so there was never much of a load. The compressor has not run at all the last three times at the boat landing.
I replaced my shocks in less than two hours with the Arnott re-manufactured shocks. After the install my compressor ran for 2-3 seconds, and I haven't heard it since. I only tow a Jet Ski and a small boat, so there was never much of a load. The compressor has not run at all the last three times at the boat landing.



