squeaky brakes?
Hey all...
I have a 07 Denali - 25000 miles..... and the front brakes have started to squeak pretty loud when the pedal is depressed..... Especially when going down a hill and stopping They really don't squeak on flat surfaces like when gradually rolling up to a stop sign.....
My question.... Do the rotors need to be resurfaced to eliminate this problem?
Or is there another suggestion?
thanks
tj
I have a 07 Denali - 25000 miles..... and the front brakes have started to squeak pretty loud when the pedal is depressed..... Especially when going down a hill and stopping They really don't squeak on flat surfaces like when gradually rolling up to a stop sign.....
My question.... Do the rotors need to be resurfaced to eliminate this problem?
Or is there another suggestion?
thanks
tj
Its always a good practice to resurface the rotors when installing new pads, depending on the cost of the rotors it can be easier to just buy new rotors for the time, effort and waiting to have them turned if you are doing the work yourself.
Always clean the surface of the rotors wether new or resurfaced prior to putting on the new pads and using them, I use alcohol to degrease the surface.
Also most newer vehicles have a anti-vibration pad that goes on the back side (non stopping side)of the pad to help control squeak and squeal, you can also try the anti-squeak pookie that the auto parts stores sell
Always clean the surface of the rotors wether new or resurfaced prior to putting on the new pads and using them, I use alcohol to degrease the surface.
Also most newer vehicles have a anti-vibration pad that goes on the back side (non stopping side)of the pad to help control squeak and squeal, you can also try the anti-squeak pookie that the auto parts stores sell
AT MY SHOP WHEN REPLACING PADS WE ALWAYS TURN OR REPLACE ROTORS WHEN REPLACING PADS. HOWEVER IF A CUSTOMER HAS A SQUEAK AND THE CAR/TRUCK DOES NOT NEED PADS WE DEGLAZE THE PADS AND ROTORS WITH A DIE GRINDER WITH SANDING ATTACHMENT ON IT. THEN WE APPLY A STOP SQUEAL (BG) PRODUCT TO THE FRICTION SIDE OF PADS AND A BLUE STOP SQUEAL SPAY ON THE BACK OF PADS. WE LUBE THE CAILPER SLIDES AND WHERE THE PAD SITS IN CARRIER AND REASSEMBLE. AS LONG AS IT DID NOT HAVE 50 CENT PADS ON IT TO BEGIN WITH IT WORKS EVERY TIME.
Have changed a lot of pads on my own vehicles and have never had to turn the rotors. Proper bedding of the new pads is the most important thing to promote long life and minimize noise.
I believe I read somewhere in my factory manual for my 1997 Tahoe that resurfacing was not required if the rotor was not deformed. Thou like MDTAHOE screamed at us
(all caps) taking the glaze off with a sanding disk is good also. My exp on my 97 was that the rotors were always warpped so I just repalced the rotors everytime rather then take the extra time to find a shop that sould turn them only to have them warp again in 20k miles....I drove her like a race car...
(all caps) taking the glaze off with a sanding disk is good also. My exp on my 97 was that the rotors were always warpped so I just repalced the rotors everytime rather then take the extra time to find a shop that sould turn them only to have them warp again in 20k miles....I drove her like a race car...
sorry was not scearming , I just have a bad habit of turning on caps on tnot turning it off. I think it maybe laziness so I do not have to use shift button.
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