When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Tracker1989-2004
This compact SUV proved itself to be a fine ecnomical vehicle, good for making its way along any type of surface. Platform: CAMI (Suzuki)
Yes, well when i turn the key on the pump runs for about 10 seconds then stops. Initially the light was blinking, I saw some people had luck taking the pump apart and cleaning it and replacing the o-rings. So i did that and initially the light was blinking for a couple seconds now it doesn't blink at all.
You have an air leak. In a sealed system the pump will not run more than 3 seconds.
The PCM cuts power to the pump after 10 seconds to protect the motor.
Remove the end of the hose that connects to the bottom of the front differential and plug
it with a Phillips screwdriver. It the motor still runs for 10 seconds you have a bad air pump
or a leak in the air line. If the motor stops after 2 or 3 seconds you have a bad differential.
Turn the car off. Pry the hose off the differential. Plug the hose with something. Turn the ignition ON. Move the transfer case lever to 4WD-high. You should hear the pump run for 3 seconds and quit. When it quits the 4WD indicator on the dash should illuminate. If all that happens the pump system is good to the differential. If instead the pump runs for 10 seconds and quits you have a leak before the differential. In that case you will most likely need to repair or replace your pump.
So doing what you said, the pump went off after a couple seconds and the 4wd light came on. So basically that means the actuator inside the differential is shot correct?....
It sure looks like it.
The actuator is over $200 but the good news they are still available. The bad news is the differential needs to be removed from the car to replace the actuator.
Before I pulled the differential I would connect a bicycle pump and a pressure gauge to the nipple where you pulled off the air hose for testing.
Try to pump the actuator up to 6 PSI. If it will not hold pressure you will have to pull the front diff to find the leak.
Ok so this vehicle was given to me last fall to basically get running and just take out in the woods. I had to swap out the transfer case and a few other things to get it running. Since its something to just screw around with and take the kids out in the woods, would it make more sense to just weld the actuator in the engaged position and install locking hubs?
